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Book 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



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GUIDE 



TO 



Hardy Fruits 



AND 



ORNAMENTALS 



BY 



T. J. DWYER 



PRICE, FIFTY CENTS 



PUBLISHED BY 

T. J. DWYER & SON, CORNWALL, N. Y. 
1903. 



CONGRESS. 
ONE COPY REOEtvm 

FEB. V 1905 

CorvwMHT wrev 
BLASS ^ XXa Wo 

oopy a. 






DEDICATED 

TO HER 

WHO WAS ALL EOVE AND DEVOTION, 

"MOTHER/' 



CONTENTS. 



Apple — Suitable Soils 14 

Anthracnoce 61 

Apple — Suitable Situations and Exposures 15 

Apple — Three Systems of Growing 15 

Apple — Varieties for Commercial Purposes 16 

Apple — Varieties for Home Use 17 

Apple — Dwarf Varieties 20 

Apple— Crab 20 

Apricot — European and Russian Varieties 30 

Asparagus — Preparation of the Soil; How to Plant 83 

Asparagus — When to Plant; Cultivation 84 

Asparagus — The Asparagus Worm 84 

Asparagus — Best Varieties 85 

Borers 11 

Border — The Hardy 110 

Black Knot 33 

Blight— Cane Blight 61 

Blackberries — Best Varieties 68 

Blackberries — How to Plant 67 

Clover— Uses of 13 

Curculio 33 

Cherry Trees — Suitable Land 39 

Cherry Trees — Pruning 39 

Cherry Trees — Suitable Distances for Planting 39 

Cherry Trees — Fertilizers 39 

Cherry Trees' — Heart and Bigarreau 40 

Cherry Trees — Duke and Morello 41 

Currants — Preparation of the Soil and Pruning 70 

Currants — How to Plant 71 

Currants — When to Plant 71 

Currants — The Worm and Cane Blight 71 

Currants — The Life and Fertilizers 71 

Currants. — Best Red, White and Black Varieties 72 

Caterpillars 11 

Dewberry — The TWo Best Varieties 65 

Evergreen Trees' — Standard Ill 

Evergreen Trees — Dwarf 114 

Fruits — Tree 7 

Fruits — Tree — Preparation of the Soil 7 

Fruits — Tree — How to Plant 8 

Fruits — Tree — When to Plant 9 

Fruits — Tree — Cultivation 9 

Fruits — Tree — Pruning Before and After Planting 9 

Fruits — Tree — Borers and Caterpillars 11 

Fruits — Tree — Spraying and Protecting 11 

Fruits — Tree— Thinning the Fruit 13 

Gooseberries — How to Plant 74 

Gooseberries — American and English Varieties 75 

Grapes — Hardy Varieties — How to Plant 76 

Grapes — Pruning and Preparation of the Soil 78 

Grapes — Cultivation and Fertilizers 78 

Grapes — Training the Vines 78 

Grapes — Thinning the Fruit and Spraying 78 

Grapes — Best Black, Red and White Varieties 80 

Hedging Plants — Deciduous 105 

Hedging Trees — Evergreen 109 



CONTENTS— Continued, 

Juneberry — Dwarf — How to Plant 66 

Mulberry Trees — Best Varieties 45 

Maples — Japan — How to Plant' 98 

Nut Trees — Best Varieties 46 

Nectarines — Best Varieties 38 

Ornamental Trees, Plants and Vines 88 

Ornamental Trees, Plants and Vines — When to Plant — Mulching 88 

Pears — Proper Distance to Plant 21 

Pears — Summer, Autumn and Winter Varieties 22 

Pears — Dwarf Varieties 25 

Peaches — Preparation of the Soil 26 

Peaches — Distances Apart for Planting 26 

Peaches — Grown with other Fruits 27 

Peaches — The Borers and Yellows 27 

Peaches — How to Prune and Thin 28 

Peaches — Best Varieties 28 

Plums — Japan and European Varieties 31 

Plums — Pruning, Fertilizer and Spraying 33 

Plums— The Proper Soil 33 

Plums — Distance Apart to Plant 33 

Plums — Black Knot and Curculio 33 

Plums— For Profit 3b 

Quince — Best Soil and Distance Apart 43 

Quince — Best Varieties 44 

Raspberry — Anthracnoce and Cane Blight 61 

Raspberry — Spraying 61 

Raspberry — Suitable Ground 59 

Raspberry — How to Plant and Prune 59 

Raspberries — Red, Yellow and Black Varieties 62 

Rhubarb — How to Plant — Cultivation 86 

Rhubarb — Best Varieties and Fertilizers 8? 

Rhododendrons 108 

Roses — Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals * . . 116 

Roses — Tea and Hybrid Tea 120 

Roses — Rambler 121 

Roses — Hardy Running or Climbing 121 

Roses — Tree 122 

Roses — Wichuraiana 122 

Roses — Rugosa 123 

Stock — Holding Over 7 

Spraying Formulas 11 

Strawberries in the Author's Boyhood Days 48 

Strawberry — Preparation of the Soil 49 

Strawberry — Fertilizers and How to Plant 50 

Strawberry — When to Plant and Cultivation 52 

Strawberry — Mulching and Winter Protection 53 

Strawberry — Rust on Strawberry 54 

Strawberry — Best Varieties 54 

Strawberry — Cost to Get an Acre in Bearing 58 

Trees — Ornamental — Fall Planting and Pruning 89 

Trees — Ornamental — Best Kind for Grouping 90 

Trees — Ornamental — General Selection 91 

Trees — Ornamental — The Best Flowering Kinds 94 

Trees — Weeping Deciduous 98 

Trees — For Street Planting 99 

Vines — Hardy Creeping 123 

Wineberry — Japanese — How to Plant 66 



INTRODUCTORY 




HE author has been constantly associated in every 
conceivable way with the hardy fruits and orna- 
mentals for over thirty years. He has thought, 
talked and written about them daily during- that 
period ; moreover, he has lived in their midst all 
this time, has handled and cared for them from the 
bud and scion to the fruit and flower. For some 
time past he has longed for an opportunity to tell the story that 
follows. Simple as it is, it is the result of practical experience. 
In the beginning of this work the author had in mind two 
principal motives — one to satisfy and gratify a long cherished 
wish to sit down and write in plain every-day language, a 
simple, readily understood story, to endeavor to exclude all 
foreign and unnecessary matter, to be brief and concise, yet to 
cover all essential matters relating to cultural methods. Still, 
personal reminiscences have occasionally crept in ; they have 
been irresistible. Hard as I have fought and opposed them, 
they have at times dominated me, for the time being — luring 1 
me away from a well decided plan and purpose. If an apology 
is needed it is for this infringement on the reader's rights. 
The other motive was to be able to answer more intelligently 
and practicably the many letters I receive from friends and 
correspondents on horticultural matters. For some time past 
it has been a hard and laborious task to answer these letters 
individually. In the following pages I have tried to anticipate 
and supply, in a general way, what the average letter for in- 
formation inquires about. For the possible mistakes and omis- 
sions the author asks your kindly consideration. My hope and 
earnest wish is that the reading of this book will directly or 
indirectly influence all to grow their own fruit and beautify 
their home grounds. 

THOMAS J. DWYER. 
Cornwall, N Y., January 25th, 1903. 



TREE FRUITS. 



PREPARATION OP THE SOIL. 

Land that has been previously cropped with fruits, grains or vege- 
tables is admirably adapted to the planting of the Apple and other Tree 
Fruits; also land that is in sod can, with proper and persistent plowing 
and harrowing, be made ready and brought in good condition for plant- 
ing in a short time, but no matter what the condition of your land, be 
it loose or in sod, the thorough preparation of it is of the primary and 
most necessary importance. On the perfect performance of this work 
in the beginning the life and future of your trees depend more than upon 
any other point that can possibly afterwards relate to their welfare. Plow 
the ground as deep as possible, and if you can do it to advantage, follow 
with the sub-soil plow. No matter what the depth of your virgin soil is, 
let your aim be to loosen the sub-soil to a depth of two or three inches 
below it. If the ground has previously or directly before been in sod, 
it should be cross plowed after it has been thoroughly worked over 
with the harrow. In any case, and every time the plow has been used 
the ground must be finely pulverized with the use of the harrow. If you 
have to go over the ground five or six times to accomplish this purpose, 
and have the soil in perfect order, you may consider it time well spent. 
The writer knows this from experience, and has in the past and on sev- 
eral occasions harrowed plots of ground as many as ten times to get 
them in the perfect condition they should be in before planting. In ad- 
dition to the advisability of getting started right the necessity of having 
your land properly prepared is of paramount importance. Occasionally 
we have observed the practice of a few fruit growers and others who 
back furrow a narrow strip in their proposed orchard and plant their 
trees on this elevated ridge. This is a ruinous method and should not be 
practiced at any time or under any circumstances. To use this system 
of preparing the land when it is in sod is a thoroughly wrong and 
suicidal beginning. We should make it a rule, and never deviate from 
it, that no matter what the land has heretofore been cropped with, it 
should all of it be plowed and harrowed as prescribed above. Horse or 
cow stable manure or both, mixed together, may be used broadcast on 
the ground before the first plowing. Unless your land is in an exception- 
ally high state of fertility, you can safely use, and to good advantage, ten 
tons of this manure to the acre. In a general way this would be equiva- 
lent to ten large team loads. We will, of course, later on in this work 
advise the quantities and how to apply manure or fertilizer directly 
about the trees at the time of planting, and afterwards as they grow and 
develop from year to year. All the matters heretofore referred to and 
explained in detail under the heading "Preparation of the Soil,' are ap- 
plicable, singly and individually, to all the tree fruits hereafter named — 
Apples, Pears, Peaches, Apricots, Cherries, Plums, Quinces and Nut 
Trees. ■ 

HOLDING STOCK OVER. 

It sometimes happens that parties are not ready to plant their trees, 
plants and vines as soon as received. When this is the case, the stock 
should be "heeled" in the ground; this is done by making a trench, plac- 
ing the roots in it, leaving the tree or plant in a slanting position at an 



8 



DWYERS GUIDE. 



angle of about forty-five degrees, covering the root carefully with soil 
and pressing the earth firmly about them with the use of the feet; then 
add more soil to protect roots thoroughly from the wind and sun until 
you are ready to plant them permanently. Trees, plants and vines, 
when properly "heeled" in these trenches, can be kept in good condi- 
tion for several days, but they should be planted as soon as possible. 
However, if you are obliged to hold them over, "puddle" the roots and do 
it in this way; remember that it is the only right and proper method. 
Trees received too late in the fall for planting can be held over in this 
way until Spring. When this is done it is advisable to cover the tops 
of trees or plants with evergreen boughs, corn stalks or straw. 

Stock that is received in a dry or frozen condition should be also 
placed deeply in these trenches, with the soil firmly pressed about the 
roots and two-thirds of the trunk and branches buried in the earth in 
this way. Twenty-four hours is the usual prescribed time to keep stock 
under this treatment, but three full days is none too long, and when dry 
or frozen stock is held over in this way for that length of time it is 
quite a guarantee that it will come out in good vigorous condition. 
When stock is excessively dry, water should be used about the roots, but 
in no other way. We wish that the limits of this work would permit us 
to go into lengthy detail about the care of trees and plants from the time 
they are received until permanently planted. It is of supreme import- 
ance to get them back in the soil at the earliest possible moment. If 
you will follow the directions given, all will be well. 

HOW TO PLANT. 

Where the conditions are right and suitable you can make deep 
furrows singly or crosswise of the field with the use of the team and 
sub-soil plow which will save considerable labor in the digging of the holes, 
and when these furrows are lined out straight and the work properly 
done it is decidedly the most economical and best method. Afterwards 

you can enlarge the furrow directly where 
you are to plant the trees. You will find 
this a comparatively small job as most of 
the work will have been done with the 
plow. 

Dig the holes sufficiently large for the 
roots in their natural position, have the 
holes at least three feet in diameter and 
eighteen inches deep; fill in bottom of hole 
with rich soil and plant an inch deeper 
than the trees stood in the nursery row. 
The roots of the trees should never come 
in contact with the hard edge of the holes. 
They should have the soft soil in which 
to take hold of. Many trees that die are 
killed for the want of proper care in the 
preparation for planting. In fact the life 
and future of your trees depend largely 
on the care and attention bestowed on 
them when they are being placed in 
"Mother Earth." Use the surface soil 
directly about the roots; after the roots 
are well covered, firm the soil thoroughly 
with the use of the feet; do not place any 
manure next the roots. A shovel or two 







DWYEE'S GUIDE. 9 

of fine manure may be put in the hole after the roots are well covered with the 
soil; then the hole can be filled level with the surface of the ground In 
the absence of stable manure you can use to good advantage five pounds 
of unleached wood ashes to each tree, applying one-half of it on the soil 
directly after the roots are covered and the other half on the surface 
of the ground around the tree. In case you cannot get stable manure 
or wood ashes you can use any of the complete makes of commercial 
fertilizers, such as Mapes' Fruit and Vine Manure which we have used 
for many years with good success. These manures can be used after- 
wards m large quantities according to the development and requirements 
of the trees. All roots of the trees that may have been mutilated with 
the spade or tree digger, should be made smooth with a sharp knife. This 
work is very important, and should not be neglected. After the trees are 
planted they should be properly and severely pruned back removing fully 
two-thirds of the wood and leader. In cutting off these branches look for 
a bud on the outside of the limb and cut back directly above this bud 
We need hardly state that this pruning back at the time of planting is 
one of the most necessary and important requirements, and failure to at- 
tend to this small detail has been the direct and only cause for the loss 
of very many trees. 

WHEN TO PLANT. 

Plant your trees in the Spring as early as possible — the earlier the 
better after you can get your ground in proper condition for tilling or 
preparing the soil. You cannot do this work too early, but can easily 
defer it until it is too late for best results. You can plant any time dur- 
ing the months of March and April, and even along in the month of May 
when the season is late and the stock in dormant condition. Trees may 
also be planted to good advantage during the Fall months, any time from 
October 15th until the ground freezes is a good time for this work. For 
several years past Fall planting has been practiced quite generally. The 
writer has been one of its strongest advocates, and has recommended it; 
in fact, has planted the greater percentage of his own trees at this sea- 
son of the year, and always with satisfactory results. We do not wish 
to say that in all cases Fall is a better time to plant than the Spring, but 
it is just as good a time when other conditions are equal. We do say, 
however, that in the majority of cases which have come under our obser- 
vation, that the Fall is positively the best time. We know from many 
years' experience that the tiller of the soil has more time at this season 
to prepare his ground and do his planting than in the Spring, consequent- 
ly the work will be better done. Your planting of trees should not be 
postponed a single day; delays along these lines are dangerous. Our 
advice is to always plant at the earliest possible moment. When trees 
are planted in the Fall it is always advisable and beneficial to "mound 
up" the soil about the body of the tree. This "bank of soil" should be 
twelve inches high, and will prevent the young trees from swaying back- 
wards and forwards during the winter months, besides it will serve as 
a partial protection from the barking of the trees by field mice and 
other rodents. This is much better and less expensive than the old prac- 
tice of staking the trees. This mound of soil must, of course, be leveled 
down in the spring and need not be repeated after the trees have made 
a season's growth and the roots have taken hold of the soil. 

CULTIVATION. 

We wish we were able to show clearly and plainly in this little work 
the absolute necessity of doing this important task at the right time and 



10 DWYEES GUIDE. 

at all times, in the best manner. Thorough tillage of the soil is bound 
to bring good results, and on this requisite depends tne life and welfare 
of your trees. Clean and thorough cultivation means that you must keep 
your ground free of weeds at all times. It means more than this — that 
you must destroy the weeds before you see them. If you do this you will 
always, during the growing season, have your ground loose and in perfect 
order for the welfare of your trees. We see no good or sufficient reason 
to go into any lengthy detail in this matter. The plow, cultivator and 
harrow are to be used, and when to use them must be determined by 
yourself. Keep your ground loose and free from weeds and you will be 
sure to give the proper cultivation. The entire ground in your young 
orchard should be kept plowed for the first five years. You can, of 
course, crop the ground between the rows with strawberries, or with 
low growing vegetables, such as potatoes, tomatoes, beets, carrots and 
beans. These are most suitable crops for the situation, but if you 
choose you can crop the ground with corn, wheat, rye and oats; but no 
matter what your crop may be don't plant within five feet of the trees. 
Where trees are planted in sod ground, on the lawn or in other places, 
the soil should be kept loose about them three to four feet in diameter. 
It is a comparatively small and inexpensive job to cultivate your fruit 
trees, providing you do the work in a timely season. Don't let tufts of 
grass grow and develop around the trunk of the trees. We have proven 
conclusively and to our entire satisfaction after many years of experi- 
ments, that (excepting the peach tree) constant and persistent cultivation 
from year to year is detrimental to the welfare of all fruit trees. With 
this uninterrupted and continued tillage it is difficult to keep the trees 
under proper control; we are sure to stimulate them beyond their natural 
possibilities and as a consequence produce an excessive and inferior wood 
growth. Where we have such an over-abundance of wood growth the 
formation and development of the fruit buds is correspondingly retarded. 
Where there is such a superfluity of wood growth it must be removed 
each year by severe and necessarily injurious priming, and this together 
with the bad results of over-feeding will in a few years exhaust the 
vitality of the trees. We have trees in our orchard at the present time 
dying and beyond hope from these causes. After your orchard has been 
tilled for five years it should be seeded down to grass for three or four 
years, then cultivated again as in the beginning. An alternating system 
of this kind judiciously prosecuted of cultivation and no cultivation will, 
we believe, prolong the life of the trees and one year with another give 
the most permanent and profitable results. 

AFTER PRUNING. 

This must be attended to annually with unfailing regularity; it is 
absolutely indispensable to success. There is no iron-clad rule that can 
be applied intelligently to all kinds of tree fruits, or in fact to any one 
kind; no two trees are just alike, nor can they be made so with the best 
and most approved scientific skill or management. As a matter of fact 
each tree has, so to speak, an individuality and formation of its own, 
and should be pruned accordingly. When the trees receive annual treat- 
ment, and have been brought into the proper shape by judicious prun- 
ing and attention, the only pruning afterwards needed is to remove any 
branches that are crossing or interfering with each other and to keep the 
head in symmetrical shape and well open to the sun, light and air. In 
neglected trees where severe pruning is a necessity, the wound should be 
made smooth and a coating of paint or shellac applied to protect it from 
the weather, and prevent decay. 



DWYEE'S GUIDE. 11 

The Borers should be looked after twice each year; the best time is 
during the months of May and September, but almost any other time will 
answer quite as well. The Borer is a fleshy white grub about one-half 
an inch in length and attacks the tree at the collar near the surface of 
the ground. As a rule the surface indications of the bark (resembling 
fine saw dust) will disclose its presence when it is readily found and des- 
troyed. Occasionally, however, it will have worked its way some dis- 
tance in the tree; then you must follow along this line with a strong 
wire or some other slim, stiff instrument. It is, of course, important to 
exterminate these Borers. Neglected, feeble growing trees or trees 
grown permanently in sod ground without cultivation, are much more sus- 
ceptible to the ravages of the Borers than those of a vigorous con- 
stitution. 

The Caterpillars — These are very annoying and destructive insects 
and seem to come in more or less quantities with increasing regularity 
each Spring. They should be destroyed at once, before they have a 
chance to spread and multiply, otherwise they will in a few days' time 
strip the tree of its foliage, the result of which, while not necessarily 
fatal, is of course very injurious to the welfare of the tree. You can 
cope with these easily and successfully if you attack them in their early 
stages in the Spring. The Caterpillar seems to have a special like and 
reverence for the apple and peach trees; they will, however, when left un- 
molested, build their castle in any fruit tree, "hang up their hats" and 
make themselves at home and comfortable. 

Protecting the Trees from the ravages of mice and rabbits during 
the Winter months is very necessary in some localities. The remedy is 
very simple and easily applied. Wrap hardware paper about the trunk 
of the tree and coat it with coal tar; it is advisable to add a small 
quantity of coarse oil to the tar as it prevents it from cracking; remove 
the soil from about the collar of the tree to the depth cf about two inches, 
and start your paper at that point, always filling in the soil when the 
work is completed. The proper time to apply this coating is in October 
and should remain on the tree until May. 

Spraying — This is not at all times an absolute necessity, but whether 
or not your trees are diseased spraying is beneficial, therefore we advise 
it "both as a preventive and safeguard and as one of the essential re- 
quirements to bring about the best results. Thorough and persistent 
spraying under all conditions or circumstances adds very materially to 
the vigor and health of your trees; it influences and helps to develop a 
large and rich system of foliage, which of itself is a necessary fore-run- 
ner to the largest, highest colored, most uniform and best flavored fruit. 
We follow with the best orchard formula spray: 

BORDEAUX MIXTURE — Copper sulphate, 6 lbs.; quicklime, 4 lbs.; 
water, 45 gals. 

The copper sulphate should first be dissolved in the water, which 
should be done as follows: Place the copper sulphate in an earthen or 
wooden vessel (do not use metal), and pour on the water occasionally 
until the blue crystals are dissolved. Slake the lime in 3 or 4 gal- 
lons of water; stir well, and when cooled off, strain through a fine sieve 
or cheese cloth into the vessel prepared for the mixture. The copper sul- 
phate solution should always be poured into the lime. Do this 
carefully, that nothing may pass through the strainer which 
might stop up the nozzle of the sprayer. Add sufficient water to make 50 
gallons of solution, and it is ready for use. Then to this add one quart 
of any kind of molasses, which will make it more adhesive; then dissolve 



12 DWYEE'S GUIDE. 

to a pasty substance one-quarter pound of Paris green and add to above, 
mixing all thoroughly together. This is an efficacious mixture and one 
that can be used advantageously at all' seasons for spraying. 

The first spraying should be done in the early Spring, just as 
the buds begin to swell; the second spraying as soon as the blossoms be- 
gin to fall. This is the most important spray of all, its principal purpose 
being, of course, to destroy the codlin moth, and in addition it is intended 
to have it cope with any other insects, or fungous diseases. It is also de- 
sirable as well as beneficial to make a third spraying about two weeks 
after the second. Should the leaves of your trees show rust or mildew 
at any time, spray at once with the Bordeaux Mixture (without the ad- 
dition of the Paris green). The spray can be applied to the trees so that 
it may fall upon the limbs, leaves and fruit. The style of spray pump to 
use will depend entirely on circumstances and your requirements. For 
large orchard spraying the barrel pump will be the best and most econ- 
omical, while for scattering small plantings and for general purposes on 
the private place or small diversified fruit farm, the knapsack sprayer 
would be the most desirable and satisfactory. We are using the Gould's 
make of pump and are able to recommend them. 

OTHER SPRAYING FORMULAS. 

The separate sprays hereafter named are to be used for many pur- 
poses. When their use is necessary on any of the trees, plants, vines or 
shrubs they will be referred to, and we will name the heading that will 
designate the one recommended. 

Ammoniacal Solution of Carbonate (For Leaf Blight or Rust) — Dis- 
solve five ounces of copper carbonate in three pints of ammonia, dilute 
with water so as to make fifty gallons. 

Kerosene Emulsion (For Scale Insects) — Hard soap y 2 pound, boiling 
water 1 gallon, kerosene 2 gallons. 

Green Arsenical Spray (Valuable for Leaf Roller, Slug, etc.) — Green 
arsenoid, 1 pound; water, 150 gallons; lime, 1 pound. 

Resin Lime Mixture (For Chewing Insects) — Pulverized resin, 5 
pounds; concentrated lye, 1 pound; fish oil, 1 pint; water, 5 gallons. 

Kerosene and Water Mixture — For Scale Insects use a 15 per cent 
to 25 per cent, mixture; a 5 per cent, mixture is strong enough for soft 
bodied insects. 

Tobacco Water — Boil stems and strain liquid, add water to make two 
gallons of liquid to each pound of stems used; add 1 pound of whale oil 
soap to each 50 gallons. Valuable spray for rose bushes and hardy 
shrubs. 

Copper Sulphate Solution— Copper sulphate, 1 pound; water 25 gal- 
lons. For slugger on raspberry, blackberry and dewberry. 

Potassium Sulphate Solution.— Potassium sulphate, 1 ounce; water, 1 
gallon. Valuable for goosberry mildew. 

Wash for Tree Trunks — Whale oil soap, 1 pint; slacked lime, 3 pints; 
water, 4 gallons, add wood ashes to thicken to the desired consistency. 
A preventative against insects that attack the trunk of trees. 

FORMULA FOR SAN JOSE SCALE. 

The San Jose Scale is a deadly fruit tree pest, minute in size, incon- 
spicuous in color, and remarkably prolific. It often escapes notice until it 
is present in dangerous numbers. This insect attacks trunks, branches, 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 13 

and even the fruit. If we begin spraying our trees when there is just a 
light sprinkling of scale there is no reason why we should not be able to 
keep it under control. We have been able to rid several country places 
of this pest, which have been under our supervision, with the following 
mixture: Twenty per cent, crude petroleum and 80 per cent, water, 
which should be applied in the early Spring just as the buds are begin- 
ning to swell; at that period the trees have a greater power to resist 
the penetrative qualities of the oil than during the winter months. The 
mixture should be applied in a thorough manner so that every particle of 
the tree will be reached. 

THINNING THE FRUIT. 

A quarter of a century ago this was practically unknown and prac- 
ticed by very few fruit growers, either amateurs or professionals. To- 
day it is considered one of the paramount and first requirements to the 
production of the choicest fruit grown, either for pleasure or for profit. 
No practical, thorough, up-to-date grower of fruit would feel that he was 
giving his trees the best opportunities and advantages to develop their 
possibilities if he omitted this important work. In fact, he 
would not think of neglecting this part which is so necessary 
in order to produce a choice number one grade of marketable 
fruit, and the kind of fruit that there is always a demand for at remuner- 
ative prices, almost regardless of the general market conditions. Then 
if our aim is to grow the finest fruit for our own use we must of neces- 
sity resort to this "thinning of the fruit." It is not as laborious or ex- 
pensive a work as one would imagine from the first impulse ; we have 
learned this from long years of varied experiences with the different 
tree fruits. No work in connection with your fruit growing will pay 
you correspondingly better than this. Apples, peaches, pears and quinces 
should be "thinned out," or, to be more explicit, the surplus fruit removed 
from the tree so that no two specimens will be nearer together than five 
or six inches. Plums and apricot fruit should be four inches apart. 
This "thinning out" should be done when the fruit is about the size of a 
white walnut. Peach and plum trees have frequently been killed by 
this excessive over-bearing of a comparatively inferior and worthless 
crop of fruit that under proper "thinning" would have matured a profit- 
able crop, besides being preserved for good money-makers for years to 
come. 

THE USE OP CLOVER. 

We want to advise the use of the Clovers as enrichers of the soil. 
We have found nothing so valuable to "bring up" worn out lands. 
Where one has an impoverished piece of ground that is needed for fruit 
culture or in fact for any crop, he can plow the ground during the months 
of July or August, harrow it thoroughly and with a top dressing of stable 
manure, wood ashes or a commercial fertilizer, seed it down with clover, 
firming the seed in the soil with the use of the roller. Under ordinary 
circumstances this clover will make a growth of ten to twelve inches in 
height before the end of the growing season. It can be plowed under 
in the late fall or early spring. This crop will add large quantities of 
humus and nitrogen to your land. This is decidedly the best and most 
economical way to enrich your soil and bring it up to the highest state 
of fertility. It is desirable and at all times beneficial to use the clovers 
as a cover crop between your fruits during the winter months. We 
practice this method ourselves and recommend it to all, especially 
among the tree fruits, as well as for Currants, Gooseberries, Raspber- 



14 DWYEES GUIDE. 

ries and Blackberries. This winter mulch or covering of clover should 
of course be plowed under in the early spring. The Crimson Clover is 
the most valuable plant to use for the purposes heretofore named. It 
does not succeed in all cold climates, however, but where it fails you will 
almost invariably find the Red Clover a valuable substitute. With the 
judicious employment of these Clovers we are enabled to get the largest 
and cleanest crops and keep our ground quite fresh and new at all 
times. 



THE APPLE. 



SUITABLE SOILS. 

This "King of the Tree Fruits" will grow and, with proper care and 
cultivation, give good results on a variety of soils and in various climates. 
Most any kind of farm land that will produce a good crop of corn, wheat 
or potatoes is well suited and adapted to the growing of the Apple. Its 
favorite soils are a strong, rich loam of a limestone nature, or a deep 
strong, gravelly, marly loam. Perhaps the best flavored and highest 




colored fruit is produced from a strong, rich sandy loam, with a grave ly 
sub-soil. It must be understood, however, that land with the gravelly 
sub-soil as above described is leechy, more or less depending on its gen- 
eral characteristics, consequently much more difficult to keep in a 
high state of fertility than ground with a clay sub-soil. It is a well-rec- 



DWYERS GUIDE. 15 

ognized fact that on the bank's and interior sections of the Hudson River 
Valley, between New YorK City suburbs and Albany, there is produced in 
large variety a high standard of large, choice, fine appearing apples of 
the best flavor. The top soil along the Hudson River section varies from 
a light sandy loam to a dark loam, with a limestone mixture. This top 
soil has a body of itself from ten to twenty inches and is almost invari- 
ably underlaid with a clay sub-soil. This seems to be indisputable evi- 
dence that such land is especially adaptable to the successful production 
of the Apple; moreover it is a noticeable fact that the trees grow larger 
and live longer on this character of land than on any other. 

Don't Plant Apple Trees on an excessive dry, warm soil; they may 
exist there for a while, but in the end it will be an all-round disappoint- 
ment with money, and what is more important, valuable loss of time.. 
Don't plant on excessively wet land, that is, land that is low and too 
moist to cultivate when the ordinary farm crops can be tilled to advan- 
tage. We want to warn all against planting the Apple on very low 
ground, even when the land is of an average dry nature; the trees never 
thrive well on these low lands. It is only occasionally that the blos- 
soms escape the late Spring frosts and bear a crop of fruit. We have 
in this country such a varied list of soils and exposures suitable to the 
best cultivation of the apple that it seems like careless and suicidal in- 
difference to select any of these uncongenial situations and destroy our 
chances of success in the beginning. The apple should not be planted 
on land underlaid with solid rock — unless the rock is five feet below the 
ground surface. 

SUITABLE SITUATIONS AND EXPOSURES. 

Most any other situation or exposure except those objectionable ones 
referred to above will be desirable for the apple orchard. We prefer the 
northern exposure, but believe when other conditions are equal that it 
makes but little if $ny difference whether or not the land is level or has 
a northern, southern, eastern or western slope. 

The Three Systems — There are three distinct and separate ways of 
planting an apple orchard. All are perhaps equally good, and one sys- 
tem superior and more desirable than the other under different condi- 
tions and circumstances. It is, we believe, unwise to recommend any 
one particular rule without having a full knowledge of the situation and 
the aims and purposes of the planter. We therefore think best to ex- 
plain briefly the methods now generally in use and let each one choose 
the one he finds most desirable and adaptable for his individual environ- 
ments. One of the methods to adopt, and the old-fashioned one, is to 
plant the apple trees thirty-five to forty feet apart each way. Another 
system and one that has been used quite largely is to plant peach trees 
between the rows of apples, and also alternately in the row, removing 
the peach trees in a few years or as soon as they are done bearing, and 
then leave the land entirely to the apples. The third arrangement is to 
plant the apple trees twenty feet apart every way. With this plan you 
get one hundred and eight trees on an acre of land and under ordinary 
conditions will have these trees come into bearing and produce a barrel 
of apples each the sixth year after being planted. They will, of course, 
bear quite some fruit the fourth and fifth years. From the sixth year 
on to say about the eighteenth, they will bear many crops, large and 
small, without the trees interfering with one another or becoming too 
much crowded to hamper all-round favorable facilities in care, cultiva- 
tion and gathering of the fruit. After this period the trees should be 



16 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

and in fact must be grubbed out and removed as the necessity requires. 
In adopting this method it is of course the privilege of the planter to 
have these intermediate trees of summer, fall and early winter varieties, 
commonly called "fillers," but there is no objection in having the orchard 
all in one variety. This seems to be the most universally recognized, 
"up-to-date" system of apple orcharding. We can in truth call this in- 
tensive fruit culture. It is, of course, especially desirable and commend- 
able where parties are hampered for land and wish to use what they have 
in the most practical way for the largest financial results. When other 
things were equal we have favored and practiced this close planting for 
some time, and believe we ought to admit this right here. There are 
many things in its favor. A man will become more interested in one 
hundred and eight trees on an acre of ground than he will be on thirty. 
He will be sure to look after their cultivation, feeding, pruning and 
spraying better. This natural interest will be much increased when the 
greater number comes into bearing and the income from them larger 
each fruiting year. He must have the courage to thin them out 
;soon, as they become so large that their branches intermingle. 
In naming a list of Apples we will confine ourselves to a small selec- 
tion of the leading and reliable standard varieties, of course including the 
sorts of recent introduction that are considered valuable acquisitions. 
There are many other varieties that are good under special 
favorable conditions of soils and climates. The ones hereafter named 
will, we feel sure, be found adaptable to a wide range of country and 
suitable for our varied lay of ground and exposures. We will classify 
them, those for commercial purposes, and those for home use, putting 
each class under three separate headings, namely: Summer, Autumn, 
Winter. Those selected for market or commercial purposes will be 
principally with the view to early fruiting, size, color, productiveness 
and all-round market qualities, somewhat regardless of high flavor. 
However, this list will necessarily include some of the best eating ap- 
ples. The varieties named under the heading "For Home Use" will be 
chosen for their high quality, ignoring quite entirely all other considera- 
tions. However, we are pleased to know that this list will embrace 
some sorts that are at once both desirable and profitable for both pur- 
poses. 

SUMMER VARIETIES— For Commercial Purposes. 

Early Harvest. — Medium size; pale yellow, 
early, mild, excellent, sub-acid. Ripens July 5th. 
Good for home use. 

Yellow Transparent. — Flesh melting, juicy, and 
of excellent quality. Good for market and home use. 
Sweet Bough. — Large, pale yellow, sweet, pro- 
ductive; valuable for marKet; ripens about August 
first. Comes into bearing early. Valuable for market. 

Red Astrachan. — Large, roundish, nearly covered with deep crim- 
son; juicy; a free grower and a good bearer. A splendid dessert apple, 
one of the best early sorts. Ripens July 20th. Good for all purposes. 

Early Strawberry. — Medium, roundish, handsomely striped with red, 
excellent, productive. Good for cooking. Ripens July 15th. A good 
market sort. 

Sops of Wine — This is a late summer variety ripening about Au- 
gust 20th. The trees are vigorous growers and productive. The fruit 




DWYER'S GUIDE. 17 

is of medium size, round and dark red, quite juicy, sub-acid and of high 
quality. Valuable for eating or cooking. Recommended for family use. 

Summer Pippin — The trees are good, strong growers, of good form, 
the fruit is large and somewhat irregular in shape. Skin yellow, with a 
crimson blush; flesh tender and white, with a sprightly sub-acid flavor. 
Productive and valuable for market purposes. 

SUMMER VARIETIES— For Home Use. 

From the preceding list the Red Astrachan, Yellow Transparent, 
Early Harvest and Sops of Wine are the best for the private garden. 

AUTUMN VARIETIES— For Commercial Purposes. 

Alexander. — Large, beautiful red, medium quality; tree a vigorous 
grower, very hardy. Fruit very handsome. Ripens late autumn. Fruit 
sells well in market. Season October to December. Good for market. 

Fall Pippin. — Very large, yellow, tender, and best quality. A regular 
and prolific bearer; one of the best for market purposes and for the 
home use. A splendid dessert apple. Season from September 1st to 
October 15th. 

Gravenstein — Large, bright yellow, roundish, splashed with red and 
orange, high flavor, prolific bearer, perhaps the most profitable of the 
autumn varieties. Should be in every collection, whether for market or 
home use. Season September 5th to October 15th. 

Maiden's Blush — Medium to large, roundish; clear yellow with pink 
cheek, beautiful; excellent for home use. 

Fameuse (or Snow). — Vigorous growth; medium, deep crimson; 
tender, sub-acid, melting, delicious, very good. Ripens in late autumn. 
A handsome, beautiful apple of medium size; one of the best dessert ap- 
ples. Season, November to January. Desirable for family use. 

Red Beitigheimer. — Very large, beautiful, superior quality, light yel- 
low covered with red purplish crimson when exposed to the sun. Trees 
are vigorous, healthy growers, regular and productive bearers. Valuable 
for market. Season, mid-autumn. 

Duchess of Oldenburgh. — Medium to large, Russian origin, yellow, 
striped with red, excellent flavor. Valuable for market. Season Sept. 
10th to Oct. 10th. Trees productive. 

Bismarck. — (Late Fall and Winter Apple). A variety from New 
Zealand. Has been thoroughly tested in the United States and Europe, 
and found to be productive; fruit large and quality good. The trees are 
of dwarf habit of growth and begin bearing the second year after being 
planted. The Bismarck is grown largely in large pots both for its fine 
fruit and for ornamental purposes. Not valuable for market. 

Twenty Ounce. — The trees are rapid, irregular growers, straggling 
in their habit. They are productive of very large, round fruit; color, 
striped, rich yellowish red; a very attractive market fruit, of fair qual- 
ity, especially valuable for market purposes, where it commands the 
highest prices. It ripens from October 1st until Dec. 1st. 

Porter. — Rather large, regular, oblong, tapering to the eye; skin 
bright yellow, sometimes a dull blush in the sun; flesh tender, rich, sub- 
acid; flavor fine; fair and productive. Season Nov. 10th to Dec. 15th. 
Of the first quality, desirable for home use. 

Autumn Sweet Bough. — Trees strong, healthy growers, and prolific. 



18 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

The fruit is medium in size, conical and pale yellow; the flesh is white, 
tender and of the best quality. Ripens in September. A choice home 
variety. 

Catshead. — Trees moderate, good growers. Fruit very large, round 
and smooth, pale green; flesh rich, sub-acid, and tender. Valuable as a 
cooking apple and for drying. Season, October and December. Especi- 
ally desirable for home use. 

AUTUMN VARIETIES— For Home Use. 

Of the foregoing autumn varieties we recommend for home use Fall 
Pippin, Gravenstein, Maiden's Blush, Fameuse (or Snow), Bismarck, 
Porter, Autumn Sweet Bough, Catshead. 

WINTER VARIETIES— For Commercial Purposes. 

Baldwin. — Large, roundish, dark red, fine flavor, sub-acid, crisp and 
juicy, very much esteemed. Trees grow erect and vigorous, bearing 
well; the great American apple that should be in every planting. Good 
for all purposes. Season, October to April. 

Ben Davis. — Large, bright red, flesh white, juicy, rich and spicy, sub- 
acid, of poor quality; a popular, good keeping Winter variety. Valuable 
for market purposes. The trees come into bearing early and are very 
prolific producers; one of the best keeping appies we have. Season, Oc- 
tober until May. 

Grime's Golden. — An apple of the highest, quality, epual to the best 
Newtown, medium to large size, yellow, productive. Valuable for all 
purposes. Season, November and December. 

Newtown Pippin. — One of the best apples as to quality. Tree a 
light grower while young. Very juicy, crisp and highly delicious flavor; 
color yellowish green. Size medium. One of the best shippers and 
longest keepers. Season from November until May. Good for all pur- 
poses. 

Rome Beauty. — Moderate growth; large yellow and red; tender, 
juicy, sprightly, sub-acid; good. Ripening December to May. Of fine 
appearance, making it a desirable orchard fruit. 

Winesap. — Large, deep red; firm, crisp, rich, sub-acid, widely culti- 
vated; a choice apple for home use; fairly productive. Season, Novem- 
ber to February. 

Spitzenberg (Esopus). — Medium to large; deep red; flesh yellow, 
crisp, sub-acid, high flavored. Bears and grows well transplanted in 
rich soil. November to April. Not profitable for orcharding, except 
where grown on specially prepared land and kept under a high state of 
cultivation. 

King (Tompkins County). — Large, handsome, nearly red, produc- 
tive; one of the best; perhaps the finest apple we grow. The trees are 
short lived; recommended for home use; quality very high. Season, 
October to December. 

Lady Sweet. — A beautiful little dessert apple, fruit flat, pale yellow, 
with a deep red cheek; juicy, rich and pleasant. The fruit sells for the 
highest price in New York, Philadelphia and Boston markets. Season, 
November until March. 

Lawyer. — Large, dark red, covered with small dots, of beautiful ap- 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 19 

pearance, promises valuable for market. Trees good growers and produc- 
tive. Season, November to February. A good market variety. 

Mann. — Fruit medium to large, roundish, oblate, skin deep yellow 
when fully ripe, flesh yellowish, juicy, mild, pleasant. Trees upright 
growers, forming round heads. Season, December to June. For home 
use. 

Missouri Pippin. — Medium to large; pale whitish yellow; flesh white 
and juicy. January to April. Good for all purposes. 

Jonathan. — Medium size, red and yellow, flesh tender, juicy and 
rich; shoots light-colored, slender and spreading; very productive. One 
of the best varieties either for table or market. Trees good, strong, 
healthy growers, and come into bearing in a short time after being 
planted. Valuable for market and home use. Season for fruit from No- 
vember until April. 

Northern Spy. — Tree very hardy, long lived, good bearer, handsome 
fruit and a good variety for market or the private use; fruit large, strip- 
ed with purplish red; quality of the best. 

Rhode Island Greening. — Large, green, tender, juicy and rich, an 
abundant bearer; one of the most popular varieties for home use and 
market. Should be in every planting. Season from November until 
March. 

Russet Golden. — Medium, "clear golden, good bearer, of high flavor. 
Valuable for market; trees bear every year. Season, November to April. 

Russet Roxbury. — Medium to large, tender, sub-acid flavor, very 
popular on account of keeping qualities. Season, January until June. 
Bears every year; good for commercial purposes. 

Smith Cider. — Large, skin yellow, changing to red; flesh tender, 
juicy, crisp, fair flavor. A good variety for orcharding and for cider 
purposes. Season, December to March. 

Wealthy. — Fruit of medium size; skin nearly covered with dark 
red, and of an oily smoothness to the touch; flesh white, fine grained, 
juicy, sub-acid; very good. Tree a free grower, productive; one of the 
best for the private garden. Season, December to February. 

Sutton Beauty. — Fruit medium to large, roundish, handsome; skin 
waxen yellow, striped with crimson; flesh whitish, tender, juicy, sub- 
acid; quality very good; keeps remarkably well. Tree a free, handsome 
grower, and productive. One of the most valuable market varieties. 
Season, November to February. 

York Imperial. — Medium, whitish, shaded with crimson in the sun; 
firm, crisp, juicy, pleasant, mild, sub-acid. Tree vigorous and produc- 
tive. A popular variety. November to February. Grown largely for 
commercial use. 

Fallowater. — Very large, greenish yellow, flesh fine grained, mild, 
sub-acid, tree vigorous. A fine variety for home use. Season, October 
to February. 

Yellow Bell Flower. — Large, yellow, rich, sprightly, and of excellent 
flavor. Season, November to March. Splendid for home use. 

Hubbardston Nonesuch. — Large yellow apple, striped with red, of 
fine flavor, a good bearer and a very valuable apple. Either for market 
or for home use. Season, November to April. 

Dominie. — Large, greenish yellow, slightly striped with red, of fine 



20 DWYER'S GUIDE, 

flavor, a good bearer and a very valuable apple. For home consumption. 
Season, November to February. 

Stark. — Esteemed as a long keeper and valuable market fruit. 
Large, roundish; skin greenish yellow, much shaded with light and dark 
red, and sprinkled with brown dots; flesh yellowish, juicy and mild sub- 
acid. Planted quite extensively for large orchards. Season, December 
to May. 

WINTER VARIETIES— For Home Use. 

From the preceding list of twenty-six Winter Varieties we select 
the sorts hereafter named as the most desirable for the home use. Bald- 
win, Grimes' Golden, Newtown Pippin, Winesap, Spitzenberg (Esopus), 
King, Mann, Missouri Pippin, Jonathan, Northern Spy, Rhode Island 
Greening, Wealthy, Fallowater, Yellow Bell Flower, Hubbardston, None- 
such, Dominie. 

DWARP APPLES. 

These should be planted in the same way as the Standard Varieties, 
except that they can be planted eight or ten feet apart, then they can be 
set in any odd corner of the garden. They are of course more or less of 
a plaything and are not recommended, except, where one is cramped for 
room and desirous of growing some choice specimens of fruit. They 
don't require as much pruning as the Standards, yet it is desirable for best 
results to keep the heads of the trees open, and all top growth well head- 
ed back each year. Six to seven feet should be the maximum height 
of the tree. In the beginning when these trees are planted the branches 
should be left on within one foot of the surface of the ground. 

CRAB APPLES. 

These should be pruned, planted and cared for in the same way as 
the standard apples, however, as they are not near as strong and vigorous. 
Twenty-five feet is far enough to set them apart. They are often grown 
profitably for commercial purposes. Their principal use is for Jellies. 
We follow with a small selected list of varieties for home use and mar- 
ket purposes. 

Hyslop. — Large, roundish, deep red with blue bloom, very pretty, 
flesh yellowish, excellent for cider and jelly. Popular. November, 
keeping late into winter. 

Lady Elgin. — Similar to the Lady Apple in size and appearance, 
tender, juicy and good; an upright, vigorous grower early and prolific 
bearer. Season, September and October. 

Excelsior — Raised from seed of Wealthy in Minnesota. Very 
hardy, productive, and one of the best flavored varieties. Ripens in Sep- 
tember. Nearly as large as Red Astrachan, more beautiful in appearance. 
Very valuable. 

Transcendent. — Tree remarkably vigorous, growing to a good size, 
and immensely productive. Comes into bearing a little the second year 
from planting, bearing every year after, and producing good crops by the 
fourth year. Fruit very large, from one and one-half to two inches in 
diameter. Excellent for sauce and pies, both green and dried. The best 
of its class for cider, being juicy and crisp, and is also, by many, consid- 
ered a good eating apple Skin yellow, striped with red. Season, Sep- 
tember and October. 

Gen. Grant. — Large, round; yellow, striped with dark, almost black, 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 21 

red on sunny side; flesh white, fine grained, mild sub-acid. Season, 
October. 

Red Siberian. — About an inch in diameter, grows in clusters; yellow, 
lively scarlet cheek; bears young and abundantly. Season September 
and October. 

Yellow Siberian. — Nearly as large as the Red Siberian; fine amber 
or golden-yellow color. Season, September and October. 



THE PEAR. 




Probably no fruit has grown as much in importance 
for several years as the Pear. It is now considered quite 
as necessary a fruit as the apple; it is right that it should 
be so, too, for it is a grand, luscious fruit. With judicious 
selection of varieties we can have the Pear for eating pur- 
poses from the first of August, until the following March, 
and as a canned fruit, for the entire year. The Pear is grown largely 
and profitably for commercial purposes. Many large and successful fruit 
growers make a specialty of this excellent fruit. There is always a good 
demand for choice fruit of high quality which always brings remunera- 
tive prices, even when there may be a glut in the market. Pears will 
succeed on any ground that will produce good crops of vegetables or 
grain, a strong loam being preferable. The preparation of the ground, 
planting and other particulars are already explained in the beginning of 
this book. It is important that the fruit be thinned when about one-third 
grown, having the samples on the trees five to six inches apart. This 
is very essential for fine, choice Pears. Then another quite important 
point in the management of this fruit, is to gather them at the proper 
time. The fruit of the summer and autumn varieties should be gathered 
ten days before ripening and placed in a dark, cool place, where they 
will become juicy and melting, and acquire a delicious aroma and fine 
flavor. 

The fruit of the Winter Varieties should be left on the trees as long 
as they keep their hold, until the leaves begin to drop from the trees. 
They should then be gathered and stored in some cool place. Pears 
handled and ripened in this way are a most delicious and health imparting 
fruit. Many people with impaired health, and those with stomach 
troubles who cannot eat apples and other acid fruits, will find a valuable 
substitute in the Pear. We know this to be so from many experiences. 
This fruit has valuable medicinal properties. The trees need liberal feed- 
ing and cultivation for the best results. These matters have been ex- 
plained in detail in the opening chapter. 

PROPER DISTANCES TO PLANT PEARS. 

Twenty feet apart each way, is the right distance for the Standard 
Pear Trees. They are often planted in the orchard in connection with 
the small fruits like strawberries currants, gooseberries, raspberries 
and blackberries, using the surplus ground for the production of these 
fruits for several years, until the Pear Orchard is well established and 
into bearing then, of course, it is your privilege to use this ground for the 



22 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



growing of vegetables like potatoes, beets and the like, but in no case 
plant within five feet of the trees. If you see signs of the leaf 
blight, spray for it at once with the Bordeaux mixture. As soon as 
you observe the first symptoms of fire blight, cut off the part thus affected 
at once, and burn it. 

The Varieties of Pears. — These we will put under three separate 
headings, namely: Summer, Autumn and Winter. Those especially men- 
tioned for home use are of the highest quality; those named for com- 
mercial purposes are selected with a view to market considerations and 
profit. Then it is fortunate that we have manv splendid, all round va- 




PEARS, STRAWBERRIES AND CURRANTS GROWN TOGETHER. 

rieties that are equally good for all purposes. When this is the fact it 
will be so stated; like apples, there is an almost endless list of varieties, 
fully ninety per cent, of them having no practical value. Such a collection 
of different sorts tend only to confuse the prospective planter and is a 
source of annoyance to the well informed and experienced horticulturist. 
My purpose from the begining has been to select the best and most re- 
liable varieties, all things considered, and I shall not deviate from this 
intention. 

SUMMER VARIETIES OF PEARS. 

Osband's Summer. — Medium, yellow, with red cheek, half melting, 
mild and pleasant, fine flavor and excellent. Productive. Good for 
market or home use. Ripens in August. 

Doyenne D'Ete. — Small, nearly round, yellow with red cheek, a good, 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 23 

juicy, sweet pear; tree vigorous and productive. Ripens in August; good 
for all purposes. 

Wilder. — A good grower, good keeper, good shipper, superior flavor- 
ed, early pear. Fruit medium in size, smooth, pale yellow, with deep 
red cheek. Valuable for ail purposes; ripens in July and August. 

Bartiett. — Large, clear, yellow, juicy, buttery, excellent, thrifty, 
young, heavy and reliable bearer, too well known to need any lengthy 
description; one of the best fruits ever introduced. Valuable for home 
use and perhaps as profitable as any fruit that is grown for market. 
Ripens September 15th to 30th; should be in every planting. 

Lawson. — One of the most beautiful when full ripe, a brilliant crim- 
son, yellow ground; flesh is rich and juicy and pleasant. Valuable for 
market. Ripens in August. 

Clapp's Favorite. — Large, delicious, good grower, productive. Ripens 
in advance of Bartiett; rots unless picked early. Should be gathered ten 
days before it would ripen on the trees; when properly handled a valu- 
able market variety. Ripens about September first. 

Koonce. — Medium to large; yellow, with handsome blush. A pro- 
ductive early market variety. Ripens in July. 

Souvenir du Congress. — Fruit large to very large, resembling in form 
the Bartiett; skin smooth, of a handsome yellow at maturity washed with 
bright red or carmine on the side exposed to the sun. Flesh much like 
the Bartiett, having the musky flavor, though in a less degree. Ripens, 
September 15. Good for market use. 

Tyson. — Medium size, bright yellow; cheek shaded with reddish 
brown, buttery, very melting; flavor nearly sweet, aromatic; excellent 
home use variety. Ripening last of September. 

Brandywine. — Above medium, yellowish green; melting, sweet; pro- 
ductive. A high class fruit for family use. Season middle of August. 

Manning's Elizabeth. — Small to medium; bears in clusters; crimson 
and gold color; very beautiful, melting, rich, sugary, springhtly, perfumed 
flavor; excellent; very productive. One of the best early pears. Good 
for market cr family use. Season, August. 

AUTUMN VARIETIES OF PEARS. 

Worden Seckel. — It is a seedling of the old Seckel. Equally as rich and 
inviting, while in size, color, form and appearance it is decidedly superior. 
Grown under like conditions we think it will average a third larger. In 
color, when well ripened, it closely resembles Clapp's favorite, but a lit- 
tle brighter red on one side, and a light golden yellow on the other, 
sprinkled with very faint russet dots with a skin that is usually as smooth 
and waxy as if it had been varnished. Recommended for home use. Sea- 
son, September and October. 

Idaho. — The trees are good, thrifty, strong growers. Yellow or straw 
color, with a faint blush or brownish red on the sunny side, thickly 
covered with fine brown dots, core very small, seeds few, flesh almost 
white, fine grained, buttery, melting, juicy, quality very good. Season 
September. For family use. 

Kieffer. — Large, skin rich golden yellow, sprinkled thickly with small" 
dots, and often tinted with red on one side; flesh slightly coarse, juicy and 
melting with a pronounced quince flavor. Tree very vigorous, and an 
early and great yielder; grown largely for canning, for wnich purpose it 
is especially adapted Recommended for commercial purposes. Season, 
October to December. 



24 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

Flemish Beauty. — A large, beautiful, sweet pear. The trees as a rule 
are unhealthy growers and short lived. "Where it succeeds it is a valu- 
able home pear of the highest quality. Season, September and October. 

Beurre Bosc. — Large and russety yellow, flesh white, melting, juicy 
and sweet, productive. One of the best pears in cultivation, both for 
home use and commercial purposes. Should be in every collection. 
Season, September and October. 

Sheldon. — Medium size, greenish russet, melting and juicy, highly 
aromatic flavor. Should be largely planted. Good for market and 
home use. Season, October. 

Seckel. — One of the richest pears grown, usually very productive, 
fine grained, sweet and exceedingly juicy. The fruit is small, but is con- 
sidered by all the standard of excellence. Grown largely for market 
purposes, and also desirable for the private garden. Season, September 
and October. 

Duchesse D'Angouleme. — One of the largest of all our pears, green- 
ish yellow, spotted with russet, flavor good. Its large size and hand- 
some appearance makes it valuable for market. 

Howell. — Large, light waxen yellow, with a fine red cheek. An 
early and profuse bearer, of fair quality. A market sort. Season, Sep- 
tember and October. Fruit of high flavor. 

Vermont Beauty. — Trees vigorous growers, early, abundant bearers; 
fruit medium in size, yellow, with red cheek, rich, juicy, and of best 
quality. Valuable for all purposes. Season, October. 

Louise Bonne of Jersey. — Trees vigorous and erect growers, and 
most prolific producers. A large, beautiful pear of high quality; yellow, 
with a dark red cheek, melting, vinous, buttery and rich. Valuable for 
commercial purposes and home consumption. Season, September and 
October. 

WINTER VARIETIES OF PEARS. 

Beurre Clairgeau. — Very large, yellow and red, handsome and at- 
tractive; flesh yellowish; keeps sound a long time. Tree a good grower 
and abundant bearer. A magnificent and valuable market fruit. Sea- 
son, October and November. 

Lawrence. — Medium yellow, covered with round dots, somewhat but- 
tery, with a rich flavor; should be in every orchard and garden; tree 
healthy, hardy and productive. Valuable for all uses. Season, Decem- 
ber and January. At this writing, Dec. 24th, we have a basket of the 
Lawrence in the room in splendid condition and excellent flavor. 

Beurre D'Anjou. — A large, handsome pear, greenish, sprinkled with 
russet, flesh white, buttery, with a high, rich flavor; very productive, 
and recommended for market and home use. Season, November until 
January. 

President Drouard. — A very good looking and large winter pear, 
with a delicate and abundant perfume; melting and juicy. One of the 
longest keepers we have, therefore good for market and the home table. 
Season, February to May. 

Winter Nelis. — Medium size, green and russet, fine grained, and 
when well ripened is one of the Dest. We have eaten this pear in March 
and considered them delicious. An all-round good pear; valuable for 
all purposes. Season, December to March. 

Beurre Easter. — A very valuable winter pear; of good flavor; the 



DWYERS GUIDE. 



25 



fruit is large and yellow, with red cheek; keeps all winter; especially- 
valuable for home use. 

Bar Seckel. — A cross between the Bartlett and Seckel. Tree strong, 
upright grower; color of fruit pale green; flesh white, fine grained, very- 
melting and juicy; preferred by many in quality to Seckel. Recommend- 
ed for the private garden. Season, November. 

Vicar of Winkfield. — Large size, long, fine; rich yellow when fully 
ripe. Very vigorous and productive; one of the best for orcharding pur- 
poses for market. Season, December to February. 

Josephine of Malines. — Medium to large, roundish; pale straw color; 
flesh rose-colored, melting and delicately perfumed; first quality; tree a 
moderate, irregular grower, with small leaves; fruit borne in clusters. 
This variety improves as the tree advances in age. One of the most de- 
licious of our long keeping table pears, and it deserves extensive culture. 
A splendid variety for the private garden. 

DWARF PEARS. 

These should be planted eight to ten feet apart, and deep enough to 
cover the union of the stock and scion. The trees should be started 
with the branches one foot from the ground. They need to have the 
wood well thinned out each year and the leading and terminal branches 
kept well headed back. The maximum height of the trees should never 
be more than six to seven feet. Too much top growth and an over 
abundance of wood means short lived trees and small inferior fruit. 
Trees properly planted, pruned and kept under good cultivation will be- 
gin bearing a short time after being set out and will produce fruit su- 
perior in size and fully as good in every other way as the standard trees. 

In fact Dwarf Pears are the only dwarf spec- 
£ ies of tree fruits that have any practical value. 

They are comparatively productive and good 
regular fruiters, desirable for very many pur- 
poses. They are particularly valuable for those 
who wish to obtain fruit at the earliest possi- 
ble period after planting. Well grown three- 
year-old Dwarf Pear trees will often come into 
bearing the second year after being planted. 
The third year under favorable conditions they 
can be relied upon to bear a nice, choice lot 
of fruit. Each tree should produce from 
twenty-five to fifty samples, the quantity de- 
pending somewhat on the variety and the sea- 
son. These dwarf trees are often used as fill- 
ers between the Standard Pears, Apples and 
other tree fruits. They need but little room, 
and can, of course, be grown and fruited in 
most any odd corner of the garden or grounds. 
The fruit should be gathered ten days 
before it is ripe and placed in some cool, 
. dark room. The principal use of the Dwarf 

Pear is for the home use, except in some special cases where 
they can be used to advantage as fillers. We would not recommned them 
for commercial orcharding. All varieties are not a success when grown 
as Dwarfs. We will follow with the names of the best for this pupose. 
The fruit has already been described under the heading of the Standard 
Trees: Bartlett, Clapp's Favorite, Tyson, Wilder, Beurre d'Anjou, Beurre 
Clairgeau, Duchess d'Angouleme, Kieffer, Louise Bone of Jersey, Seckel, 
Easter Beurre, Lawrence. 




26 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

PEACH TREES. 




No single family of fruits of the tree, bush and 
vine has grown in importance for the last ten years 
like the Peach. It is the fact that during this per- 
iod the consumption of all fruits has increased to a 
greater proportion than ever before in the history 
of the country, and this increase is larger and more 
noticeable each year both in the use of the fruit 
in its natural state and preserved. The demand 
for the Peach has been far the greatest, and we 
cannot say that it has beenfully supplied. More than 
ten years ago a Peach orchard of five hundred 
trees was quite a singular sight; at the present time most any up-to-data 
progressive fruit grower will fruit this quantity of trees, while in the 
principal Peach growing sections of the country you will find the or- 
chards, numbering from three to ten thousand trees. Profitable results 
always follow the production of good Peaches, and one fact proves 
it. The largest and best growers are the ones who have been extending 
their plantations for some time past and at the present time, too. It 
is also an encouraging sign to see those with gardens of their own, 
large and small, growing their own fruit. A quarter of a century ago it 
was thought, and in fact decided, that Peaches could only be grown in 
some special favored conditions of soils and climates. To-day they are 
successfully cultivated and produced in all parts of the country, except 
in Maine, Vermont, and the Northwestern States beyond the great lakes. 
With a judicious selection of varieties we can have this delicious fruit 
in its natural state on our tables each day from the middle of July until 
along in October, and this privilege is possible and within the reach 
of all with a list of six or seven sorts that ripen at different periods of 
the season. As a canned fruit the Peach has no superior. There is no 
tree fruit as easily grown and that will come into full bearing so soon 
after planting as the Peach. 

The Soil for Peach Trees should be prepared as previously ex- 
plained in the beginning of this book. The Peach succeeds best on a 
sandy loam, but good results can be had from them when properly culti- 
vated on any land that water does not lay on for any length of time after 
a rain storm. We should select the highest ground we have for our 
Peach trees. They can be grown on side hill situations quite regardless 
of the exposure — in fact Peaches can be produced on land that is of little 
value for any other crop. Our aim from the beginning must be to proper- 
ly prepare and enrich our soil and plant our trees on elevated locations 
to give them every favorable chance and opportunity to bring the fruit- 
ing buds through the Winter uninjured. 

Plant the Trees Fifteen Feet Apart Each Way. — This is the best 
distance, all things considered. However, on very light land they may 
be planted as close as twelve feet, while on heavy rich land they should 
be planted eighteen feet apart. We must study the character of our 
soil and our individual purposes and conveniences in determining the 
distance. If it is our intention to prune back severely each year for large 
and best fruit, we should plant our trees closer than we would when we 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 27 

expect to give them the ordinary pruning as practiced for the average 
orchard purposes. 

Peaches are grown far more extensively than any other single tree 
fruit as fillers between orchards of Apples and other fruits, the purpose 
being to crop them for a few years before the other fruits come into 
bearing, and then, .remove them. It must be remembered, that unlike 
the other tree fruits the Peach should be kept in a thorough state of cul- 
tivation at all times. From the time they are first planted until they 
are done bearing, the land should be kept at all times under tillage, loose 
and clean. The one exception to this rule would be in isolated cases 
where along in the last of July or early in August we found our trees mak- 
ing a superfluity of new wood, then we should at once prepare our 
ground between the trees and use the crimson or red clovers, selecting 
the one that best suits our climatic conditions, and seed down at once. 

This will, of course, soon retard the growth of wood. The clover 
under normal season conditions will make a top growth of eigth to 
twelve inches before the end of the growing season. We advise that 
this clover be left on the ground until early Spring, when it should be 
plowed under just as soon as the land is dry enough to cultivate — the 
earlier the better. Clover when grown and managed in this way will 
have served the triple purpose of retarding the excessive and injurious 
wood growth, as a mulch or cover crop for the land during the Winter 
months, and, perhaps, what is more important than all other considera- 
tions — a valuable enricher of the soil, adding to it as it surely will, the 
much needed humus and the all necessary nitrogen that is trapped free 
from the air. The writer here wishes to caution the reader against 
something that is quite generally unnoticed, overlooked, or entirely neg- 
lected — the guarding against this superfluous wood growth in the late 
growing season. Very many serious losses are solely attributable to this 
neglect. This new growth must be checked sufficiently early in the 
Autumn to give it the needed opportunity to ripen up thoroughly before 
freezing weather begins, otherwise the trees will go into the Winter sea- 
son with an over abundance of soft, immatured wood. The whole tree 
will suffer accordingly and a partial or whole loss of the crop will be the 
ultimate result. In this connection we want to advise against the in- 
discriminate use of stable manure on Peach trees after the ground has 
been prepared and the trees planted. If used at all, and of course it can 
be used advantageously, it must be applied sparingly and cautiously, in 
order to cope successfully against the production of too much wood. In 
addition td stable manure, unleached wood ashes and pure ground bone, 
nitrate of soda, or any good commercial fertilizer rich in potash is good 
for Peach trees. The quantities required must be determined by the 
grower who is familiar with the condition of the land, and the size and 
requirements of the trees. If he is an observant man, in love and sym- 
pathy with his trees and solicitous of their welfare, he will, like the 
mother with the child that needs a little special attention, know what 
to prescribe and when and how to administer it without perhaps being 
able to give a scientific reason or explanation. 

The Borers and Yellows. — These are the two greatest enemies of the 
Peach. The former is easily overcome by making a thorough examination 
of the trees regularly every Spring and Autumn and cutting out with a 
sharp knife the grubs, whose presence may be readily detected by the 
gum formed from the exuding sap. The yellows, however, is a constitu- 
tional disease which may come from many causes. For instance, it 
may be distributed from the original pit, from the bud, or from land where 
Peaches had been previously grown. One thing is certain, however, that 



28 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

it is more prevalent and detrimental on trees » grown under unfavorable 
conditions and on worn out or run down land. In its early stages of de- 
velopment it can be often eradicated with prompt efficacious spraying, 
severe pruning out and heading back of fully one-half of the whole 
tree. The removed parts thus affected should, of course, be burned at 
once. However, in the great majority of cases, espec&lly where the dis- 
ease has made any considerable headway, it is best and safest to at once 
dig up the tree and burn it both root and branch. This will 
be the surest way to guard against contaminating your other trees. 
It is not difficult or expensive work to cope successfully with the yellows, 
and no one should be hindered or discouraged in planting Peach trees 
on account of fear or expectation of this possible and somewhat more or 
less provoking annoyance. Where Peaches are grown for family use, it 
is desirable to plant a few trees each year — from four to twelve trees, 
depending on the size of the family and the quantities needed for table 
use and for canning. This is the safest and best method to pursue ill 
order to secure a supply each fruiting season. 

When setting out the young trees, be sure to cut off all side limbs 
and also cut tne top off, not leaving the top or stem over 2V& 
feet high; trim each year the main shoots off one-third of the last sea- 
son's growth. This should be done the last of March, and for three or 
four years until the tree has become quite large, when the severe prun- 
ing should be stopped. Prune light after this period, removing all super- 
fluous small and sickly branches. We must never lose sight of the fact 
that the fruit is produced on the previous season's growth; therefore it 
is of absolute necessity to keep up a good supply of vigorous new 
shoots over the entire tree. Spraying is of the first importance and is es- 
sential for best results. We advise the Bordeaux Formula as de- 
scribed in the beginning of this book. When the trees are overbearing 
the fruit should be thinned out when about one-quarter grown. As 
heretofore explained, the individual samples of fruit should be five to six 
inches apart on the tree. We know that to the inexperienced this will 
sound like radical treatment, in fact a waste of fruit. The fact remains, 
however, tnat you can get more bulk of fruit when matured from two 
hundred and fifty Peaches on a tree than from seven hundred and fifty — 
besides the lesser number of choice large Peaches will bring you five 
times the amount of money, and there is always a demand for fine fruit, 
while at times when the market is over supplied, it is difficult to dispose 
of small inferior fruit, and when it can be sold the prices are low, unsat- 
isfactor:' and at times unprofitable. If we seem to enlarge immeasurably 
on this subject, it is for the purpose of trying to impress all with the ad- 
visability of leaving nothing undone to produce the choicest fruit, and of 
course thinning is a necessary requirement to this end. 

VARIETIES OP PEACHES. 

There is an almost endless assortment of 
Peaches; our aim is to reduce the list as far as pos- 
sible to cover the entire season for fruit and make 
what we consider the best selection for commercial 
HlPSW'P'tfflSP^^ orcharding as well as for the home requirements. 
When the individual variety is suitable for both 
purposes it will be so stated; when especially de- 
sirable for market use or for the private garden 
this characteristic will be accordingly mentioned. 
Then what is perhaps of great importance and 
value, we will name the kinds that have proven themselves particularly 




DWYEK'S GUIDE, 29 

hardy of tree and buds — those sorts that we have known under similar 
conditions to come through an unfavorable Winter wholly or partially 
unharmed when the fruiting buds of tender and more susceptible varie- 
ties have been Winter killed in whole or in part. 

Elberta. — Large, yellow with red cheek juicy and of high quality, 
flesh yellow and melting. A very valuable sort. One of the most reliable 
standard varieties we have; a profitable, magnificent yellow variety; 
is now being planted heavily by large fruit growers for commercial pur- 
poses. Should be on every list of Peach trees. Ripens in September; 
and is a free stone and hardy of bud; desirable for all purposes. 

Chair's Choice. — A late yellow-fleshed variety; very beautiful and 
desirable; of largest size; deep yellow with red cheek; freestone, flesh 
firm and of best quality; t desirable as a dessert fruit and for canning; 
■another profitable variety, and a good companion for the Elberta; ripens 
in September; free stone and buds hardy; valuable for market use. 

Stump the World. — Very large, skin white, with bright red cheek, 
flesh white, juicy and good. Last of September. An old, reliable white 
variety and most desirable mate for the Stephen's Rareripe; freestone, 
hardy of bud, and desirable for all purposes. 

Stephen's Rareripe. — Large, white fruit resembles an enlarged Old 
Mixon Free, of the highest color, very productive and free from all dis- 
ease. This is perhaps, all things considered, the best late white Peach 
we have to-day. A large, beautiful fruit of the best flavor and appear- 
ance, deserving of all the praise bestowed on it for the last few years 
and growing in favor each season; ripens middle of September, and is a 
freestone and hardy of bud; valuable for all purposes. 

Crawford's Early. — Very beautiful, and one of the best yellow 
Peaches for market purposes, fruit very large, oblong, skin yellow, with 
fine red cheek, flesh yellow, juicy, sweet and excellent, wonderfully pro- 
ductive. Last of August; valuable for market; buds not as hardy as some 
other varieties; freestone. 

Beer's Smock. — Fruit medium to large, skin light orange yellow, 
mottled with red; some specimens dry, others moderately juicy, rich, a 
good late market sort. Ripens last of September; buds hardy ; free- 
stone. Valuable for all uses. 

Crosby. — The fruit is of medium size, roundish in form, slightly flat- 
tened, bright orange yellow, beautiful appearance. It ripens September, 
15; sets a quantity of fruit and must be severely thinned; buds the 
hardiest; valuable only for market purposes; freestone. 

Carman. — Large, resembles Elberta in shape; color creamy white 
or pale yellow with deep blush; skin very tough, flesh tender, fine fla- 
vor and quite juicy. Ripens with Early Rivers. One of the hardiest in 
bud; in shipping qualities and freedom from rot it is unsurpassed. 
Ripens in August and needs severe thinning; valuable for all purposes; 
freestone. 

Lovett's White. — A very late white Peach freestone and handsome; 
color pure white, very large, flesh firm and sweet. Ripens last of Sep- 
tember; one of the choicest fruits for the home orchard; fruit luscious; 
buds tender in some localities. 

Wonderful. — A new variety, color rich golden yellow, freestone, of 
large size, wonderfully productive. Ripens last of September; a fine mar- 
ket variety; buds hardy. 

Sal way. — Large, yellow, mottled with red cheek, a valuable late va- 



30 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

riety. Ripens October 15; good for home use; buds rather tender; a light 
bearer. 

Triumph. — Above medium; skin downy, dark orange yellow; nearly 
covered with dark carmine; flesh yellow, juicy, melting and slightly sub- 
acid; quality good where it succeeds, valuable for market and home use 
on account of its extreme earliness; the fruit in many places splits open 
when matured; buds hardy and trees vigorous growers; semi-clingstone. 

Crawford's Late. — Fruit of the largest size, skin of greenish yellow, 
with dull red cheek, flesh yellow. One of the finest late sorts. Last of 
September; buds rather tender, but where it succeeds one of the 
choicest sorts for home or market use; quality of the best; freestone. 

Globe. — A very rapid grower and an enormous bearer, fruit very 
large, flesh firm, juicy, yellow, shaded with crimson, very rich, luscious. 
September and October; an attractive fruit for all purposes; buds rather 
tender; freestone. 

Keyport White. — Medium to large, pure white, white flesh through to 
the stone. Tree a good grower, productive and valuable. Ripens last of 
September; valuable for all purposes; buds hardy; freestone. 

Mountain Rose. — One of the best and most reliable Peaches, large 
white, flesh white, sweet productive. Early August; should be in every 
planting; a beautitul semi-cling stone; buds hardy. 

Old Mixon Free. — Uniformly large, white covered with bright red; 
one of the best and most reliable. Last of August; valuable for orchard 
purposes for market; buds hardy; freestone. 

Fox's Seedling. — A very valuable Peach, large size, fine quality, 
white flesh, freestone, beautiful red cheek. Ripens October 1; not a 
productive variety; its chief value is for home use; buds rather tender; 
freestone. 

Champion. — Probably the best early white Peach, all things con- 
sidered. Trees hardy and productive, fruit very large, rich and luscious 
in flavor, white, with red cheek. Ripens middle of August; a valuable 
fruit for all uses; buds very hardy; freestone. 

Morris White. — Medium; straw color, tinged with red; juicy and de- 
licious, productive. Middle of September; valuable only for home use; 
buds rather tender; freestone. 

Brays Rareripe. — Large size, oblong or oval; white flesh, freestone; 
fine grained, with beautiful red cheek. Ripens September 15; a good 
average bearer, and desirable for market purposes; buds hardy; free- 
stone. 



APRICOT TREES. 



Where this fruit can be grown, in some few favored localities and in 
some especially sheltered warm gardens it is a great success and an in- 
teresting valuable fruit, coming into bearing a short time after being 
planted. We cannot, of course recommend it for planting in the Northern 
and Middle States, except under the favorable conditions referred to 
above. The writer has fruited it in 'a small way in his garden, here 
on the banks of the Hudson River Valley, and has at the present time 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 31 

some very promising young trees; these are grown in an Apple and 
Peach orchard, and are of course, more or less protected. We advise the 
inexperienced to experiment with the Apricot first in a small way. They 
should be planted fifteen feet apart each way; planted and treated in the 
same way as the Peach. If the curculio attacks the fruit, treat it the 
same as for the Plum. 

The Varieties that follow are the best and hardiest and can of 
course to be used for all purposes, both for market and the home. 

EUROPEAN VARIETIES OF APRICOTS. 

Acme. — An early bearer of large and good fruit. Fruit yellow, with 
red cheek. Ripens in July. 

Early Golden. — Small; pale orange; fleslh orange, juicy and sweet, 
Tree hardy and productive. Ripens beginning of July. 

Breda. — Small, round, orange flesh, juicy, rich and vinous; hardy and 
a good bearer. Ripens last of July. 

Moorpark. — Very large, orange, with reddish cheek, flesh orange,, 
sweet, juicy with a fine flavor; a very valuable variety. Ripens beginning 
of august. Very extensively planted for home use. 

RUSSIAN VARIETIES OF APRICOTS. 

are valuable acquisitions and are quite distinct from the European 
varieties. Their leading characteristics are extreme hardiness, early 
bearing, productiveness, and freedom from disease. 

The following are the best that have been thoroughly tested: 

Alexander. — An immense bearer. Fruit yellow, flecked with red; 
very beautiful. Ripens in July. 

Alexis — An abundant bearer; yellow, with red cheek; slightly acid. 
Ripens in July. 

Catherine — Vigorous and productive. Medium sized, yellow, mild, 
sub-acid. Ripens middle of July. 

Gibb — Tree grows symmetrical; productive. Fruit medium, yellowish, 
sub-acid; the best early variety, ripening soon after strawberries. About 
July 1. 

J. L. Budd — Tree a strong grower and profuse bearer. Fruit white 
with red cheek; sweet; the best late variety. Ripens in August. 



PLUM TREES. 



The ground should be prepared for these, the same as for the other 
fruit treesi, such as Apples and Pears, and as fully explained in the opening 
chapter of this book. The Plum is very important, valuable and profit- 
able when properly grown. There is always a good market demand for 
a high grade of this desirable fruit. With a judicious selection of varie- 
ties, proper pruning, spraying and thinning of the fruit, one can produce 
the Plums quite as successfully and cheaply as the Peach. For the last 
few years past the orchard cultivation of this fruit has received a stimu- 



32 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



lus with the introduction of the Japan varieties. We therefore, for the 
benefit of our readers, think best to divide the Plums into two separate 
classes, namely: The Euro- 
pean and the Japan Varie- 
ties. In selecting varieties 
from both these families, we 
will not deviate from our 
original purpose thus far 
faithfully adhered to with all 
the fruits we have written 
about. To cut down the list 
of varieties as far as possi- 
ble and practicable, without 
omitting any sort that is re- 
liable and valuable under 
varied climatic conditions 
in any section of the coun- 
try where the fruit can be 
produced. We have a great 
surplus of varieties of all 
fruits, many of them having 
only a local value near their 
origin, or where grown un- 
der some special favored 
-conditions and treatment; 
"then we have many others 
that are quite valueless no 
matter where grown. These 
should never have been put 

•on the list in the begining, but should now be discarded at the earliest 
possible moment. Then such a voluminous list of good, bad and indif- 
ferent varieties serve only to confuse the beginner or amateur fruit grow- 
er, besides being a constant source of annoyance to the professional. The 
writer has for many years past in his semi-annual publications and 
•writings strongly advocated the cutting down of this unnecessary and 
inexcusable long list of fruits, the complete and entire weeding out 
and destruction of these needless inferior sorts. We are pleased to ob- 
serve for some time past the tendency in this direction by many leading 
nurserymen, authorities on horticultural matters, and even the best and 
most progressive up-to-date fruit growers, especially those who are in the 
business for commercial purposes are confining their plantings to a 
few of the leading, trustworthy, standard kinds. The disseminators and 
introducers of new fruits are public benefactors and their work is at all 
times commendable. However, when after a fair trial a new fruit proves 
a failure it is a duty and a blessing to all interested to discard it 
promptly. 

PLUMS — Japan Varieties. 

This comparatively new family has revolu- 
tionized plum growing for some years past. They 
are in many essential ways different and preferable 
to our European sorts. The trees are hardier and 
will endure neglect and unfavorable situations bet- 
ter; they are stronger and more vigorous growers, 
much more productive, and as a rule, will come in- 
to bearing from two to four years earlier. The fruits average consider- 





DWYER'S GUIDE. 33 

ably larger, carry and sell better in market. They are superior for can- 
ning and fully as rich in flavor, consequently just as desirable as a de- 
sert and in its natural state. We have fruited several hundred trees 
during the past three years, and it was a common occurrence to pick half a 
bushel of choice fruit from three and four year old trees of Abundance, 
Burbank and other varieties; this, too, after we had thinned out two- 
thirds of the fruit from the trees. This thinning is of absolute necessity 
to get choice fruit and to keep the trees from breaking down with an 
overload of fruit. The fruit should be thinned when it is about the size 
of a walnut or about one-third grown. To get the best fruit and avoid 
rotting, no two specimens should touch each other at any time. 

Pruning. — This must be practiced yearly with a heavy hand. In 
fact it is next to impossible to get the average horticulturist to cut back 
these trees as they should be treated. As before stated, they are rampant 
growers, and such sorts as Burbank will make a wood growth of from 
six to twelve feet each season. If this is not kept in check it will soon 
make a large tree that will exhaust itself trying to mature a superfluous 
quantity of fruit, inconsistent with its age and capabilities. Then this 
heavy annual pruning and heading back, is of itself somewhat detrimental 
to the welfare of the trees; therefore, in the case of these Japan Plums, 
we would suggest and advise Summer and early Autumn pinching back 
of the leading and lateral branches; just when and how to do this must be 
determined by the variety and the growth it has made. 

Fertilizers — The best food for these Plums is that heretofore recom- 
mended for the peach; unleached wood ashes, nitrate of soda, pure 
ground bone and any good make of complete fertilizer. Stable manure 
can be used sparingly, otherwise we will get an over-abundance of wood. 

Spraying — This should be properly looked after, using the Bordeaux 
mixture as heretofore recommended. Spraying and thinning of the fruit 
is of primary importance, as they both are necessary as preventatives to 
the rotting of the fruit, especially in moist and otherwise unfavorable 
seasons. We want to urge the advisability of heading these trees quite 
close to the surface of the ground, not over two feet, or about the same as 
the Peach tree. This method, is of necessity to make the trees strong, 
solid and bulky near the roots, to prevent injury from high winds, heav- 
ing, overbearing and other causes. 

Distance Apart — For commercial orcharding, Plum Trees should be 
planted twenty feet apart each way. In the home orchard they may be 
planted twelve to fifteen feet apart. By a little extra pruning back they 
can be fruited at these distances for a number of years, and in fact in- 
definitely without interfering. By keeping them in semi-dwarf state we 
will get large, choice fruit. 

The Right Soil. — The Plum will grow and thrive on a great variety of 
soil, but as a matter of fact it attains its greatest perfection on heavy, 
loose, pliable land. It is a fact that the trees live longer and bear longer 
and more regularly on this character of ground. The Japan Plums have 
never failed us on any soil, and we have grown and fruited them with 
satisfactory results on all kinds of land, except the pure sand. The trees 
will not thrive on wet ground. 

Black Knot — This is one of the Plum's greatest enemies. Happily 
the Japan Plums are not as susceptible to it as the European varieties, in 
fact the writer's trees have been quite immune from it, yet we find that 
occassionally it does attack the Japan varieties. The only way, of course, 
to cope with this disease is to cut off, remove and burn the parts thus 



34 DWYERS GUIDE. 

affected as soon asi the knot is perceptible. Be sure to cut some distance 
say three or four inches, beyond the visible trouble. The Black Knot is 
a rough swelling of the wood, obnoxious looking, readily discernible and 
easily eradicated when taken advantage of in its early stages of develop- 
ment. For several years before the introduction of the Japan Plums, 
this disease was so prevalent on the European Family of Plums, that 
their cultivation was quite generally abandoned, except by a few of the 
large fruit growers throughout the country and especially in Western New 
York, where the production of this fruit is one of the leading industries. 
However, a better and much more encouraging feeling exists to-day, and 
the Plum is grown more largely than ever before in the history of the 
country- A good preventive against Black Knot is thorough cultiva- 
tion. Trees that are neglected are quite generally infested with this 
fungous growth. 

The Curculio — This is another enemy of the Plum, fortunately, how- 
ever, this can be easily and cheaply controlled. It is a small, dark brown 
bettle that stings the fruit, causing it to drop from the trees. When the 
trees blossom, and as the fruit begins to set, dress the ground about the 
Plum trees, make it very clean and smooth. Then, as soon as the Cur- 
culio commences its operations, spread a large sheet prepared for the 
purpose around each tree, and jar it so as to shake down all fruits that 
have been stung, as well as all the Curculios. Both insects and stung 
fruits should be destroyed. This work is performed daily, and ensures a 
full crop. The work is done quickly; a dozen trees in a garden can be at- 
tended to daily in less than half an hour's work of a man. Let those who 
really desire to grow fine crops of delicious Plums try this system, and 
follow it up rigidly, and they will be successful. 

You will find this insect much more prevalent some years than others. 
it is not at any time a difficult job to cope with it. 

JAPAN PLUMS— Leading Varieties. 

America — One of Luther Burbank's introductions. Fruit described 
as very large, glossy coral-red; flesh light yellow, moderately firm; best 
quality. Ripens about August tenth and is a splendid keeper. 

Abundance — It is exceedingly hardy Its propensity for early bearing 
Is such that before it leaves the nursery row the limbs bend with the 
weight of fruit until they sometimes break, and this is the case every 
year — the curculio having no effect upon it; the fruit is large, showy and 
of a beautiful amber shade. One of the very best varieties; fruit rich, 
sweet and a splendid dessert fruit. Ripens August first to fifteenth. 

Burbank — The fruit is usually from five to five and a half inches in 
circumference, and varying less in size than other Japan plums, nearly 
globular; clear cherry red, with a thin lilac bloom. The fiesh is a deep 
yellow color, very sweet, with a peculiar and agreeable flavor. Valuable 
for preserving. Ripens August twenty-fifth to Septemebr tenth. 

Bartiett — The introducor, Mr. Burbank, decribes it as follows: 
"Bartiett is the king for flavor; it out-Bartletts the Bartiett pear in ex- 
quisitely perfumed flesh, bears when two years old." Light salmon colored 
flesh, rather firm, yet juicy. Seed medium size, long, flat, semi-free. 
Ripens August fifteenth. 

Berckmans — (Botan) — Large, round, slightly oblong, sometimes 
verging to heart shaped; skin yellow, overspread with bright red and 
light purplish bloom; flesh yellow and of good flavor; cling; an exception- 
ally good keeper. Ripens about September first. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 35 

Chabot. — Fruit large, about two inches in diameter, oblong-conical; 
skin pink-red, with many very fine gold dots; flesh yellow, very solid, 
rather acid, quality very good, cling. Ripens early in September. 

Chalco — Tree a tremendous grower and unsurpassed in productive- 
ness, hardy. Is large, flat, deep reddish-purple; flesh yellow, very sweet, 
rather firm, exceedingly fragrant, seed small. Like the Apricot Plum the 
fruit is almost stemless and completely surrounds the older branches. A 
superior shipping sort. Ripens August twentieth. 

Climax (As described by Luther Burbank)— Fruit heart shaped, as 
large as Wickson and more highly colored, so fragrant that a whole house 
is perfumed with a single fruit; delicious as could be desired or imagined, 
and above all, it ripens here July, fifteenth. Tree extremely vigorous, 
rather upright growth with strong branches, prominent buds and very 
large leaves, the picture of hearty vigor. 

Hale.— One of the finest of the Japanese plums in quality, and re- 
markable for its vigor and productiveness. The plums are of the largest 
size of its class, bright, orange-yellow skin, mottled and nearly covered 
with vivid cherry red, exceedingly attractive and beautiful; flesh yellow, 
firm and delicious. It is an early and regular bearer, bearing each year 
enormous crops. Ripens about the middle of Septemebr after the early 
peaches and other Japan Plums have done bearing, and keeps in good 
condition a long time after being picked. 

October Purple — A very valuable Japan Plum and latest of them 
all. Mr. Burbank of Santa Rosa, Cal., has originated a large number of 
new Plums, "The October Purple," Mr. Burbank pronounces "The Best 
of Them All." "The October Purple is a splendid_ grower, ripens up its 
wood early to the tip, bears every season; fruits all over the old wood on 
spurs, instead of away out on the branches like many other kindsi. Fruit 
very large and uniform in size. It is a superb variety." The fruit is round 
in form, color a reddish-purple, flesh yellow, stone small, and in quality 
superb. The tree is a strong, erect grower, forming a nice shapely head, 
more like the Abundance in this respect. Its season of ripen- 
ing is from the middle to the last of September. ' Its large, 
even size, and beautiful color, late season in ripening, long keeping 
and superb quality, make it a desirable variety for the garden or for the 
market. A large, handsome, late plum of the choicest flavor. 

Ogon. — A handsome, very desirable Japanese Plum. Large, nearly 
round, of a bright yellow with a faint bloom; flesh firm, sweet, rich and 
dry. Excellent for canning. Ripens last of July. 

Red June — Tree a strong grower, productive as Abundance. Fruit 
medium to large, deep vermillion red, with handsome bloom, very showy; 
flesh light lemon yellow, slightly sub-acid, of good and pleasant quality; 
half cling, pit small and is the best in quality of any of the early varie- 
ties. Ripens about July twenty-fifth. Of fine rich flavor. 

Satsuma — A purple fleshed plum from Japan, of vigorous growth, 
with rank, dark green foliage enormously productive of fruit; large and 
handsome. Pit but little larger than a cherry stone. Fruits at two or 
three years of age. One of the most valuable of Japan Plums. Quality 
of the best. Ripens about September twenty-fifth. 

Shiro (As described by Luther Burbank.) — "The fruit which is pro- 
duced in the utmost, profusion, is medium to large, very uniform in size, 
clear light yellow, with an almost imperceptible thin white bloom and so 
transparent that the pit can be seen through the flesh, which is firm yet 
juicy, rich, pleasant sub-acid. Ripens about August fifteenth. 

Wickson. — A remarkably handsome and very large, deep maroon-red 



36 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



Plum. Long-cordate, or oblong pointed; flesh firm, deep amber yellow, 
clinging to the small pit. Of first quality. An excellent keeper. A cross 
of Burbank with Kelsey, Burbank furnishing the seed. Ripens middle of 
September. One of the best Plums in cultivation. 

PLUMS FOR PROFIT. 

The author has for several years fruited many varieties of the Japan 
Plums in a large way, having several hundred trees under cultivation. 
They have been a satisfactory and profitable crop at all times. Our profits 
from them have been as large as from any fruit grown,. However, we 
find that the future of this family of fruit is an undecided and unsettled 
problem among fruit growers. Many good fruit growers who have fruited 
them successful- 
ly and profitably, 
have optimistic 
views for their 
future, and are 
p 1 a n t i ng them 
largely, thus 
proving their 
faith in them. 
Then on the 
other hand we 
meet growers 
who are extre- 
m e 1 y conserva- 
tive about plant- 
ing them to any 
extent, if at all, 
seeming to think 
that ere long the 
market will be 
glutted with 
them when the 
season is favor- 
able for their 
fruiting; that 
when they rot 
badly in sea- 
sons of excessive 
rains, the crop 
is so light that 

they will be unprofitable. We have faith enough in the Japs to continue 
planting and fruiting them consistently with the other tree fruits, but 
'not exclusively of them. Perhaps we can better and more forcibly ex- 
plain by stating that we would plant them in one-half the quanities of the 
Peach, and this rule would hold good both for commercial orcharding 
and for the home garden. 

EUROPEAN PLUMS. 

These should, like the Japan sorts, be planted twenty feet apart 
and should be treated in the same way. Under similar conditions they 
are not as vigorous growers as the Japs and, of course, do not need such 
radical treatment in pruning them. They are much more susceptible to 
the somewhat troublesome black knot, and everlasting and persistent 




ABUNDANCE- 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 37 

watchfulness and eradication of this black fungus is the only sure way 
to success. The European class of varieties do not come into bearing 
as early as the Japans, neither are they as regular or prolific bearers; 
nevertheless it is a fine, handsome, high flavored fruit, in favor quite 
generally. Many large orchardists grow and fruit the best kinds largely 
for market purposes. When a judicious selection of varieties are prop- 
erly cultivated and managed under favorable conditions, they always 
bring remunerative prices. 

We follow with a condensed descriptive list of the best varieties: 

Bradshaw — Early, dark violet red, juicy, sprightly. Tree vigorous, 
productive. Ripens middle of August. 

Yellow Egg — Large, oval, yellow, juicy, rich, vigorous, productive. 
Ripens during August. 

German Prune — Fruit oval in shape, nearly two inches long, of good 
quality and much esteemed; hangs on the tree, and is firm, sweet and 
pleasant. Ripens September 15th. 

Shropshire Damson — The flesh is amber colored, juicy and sprightly. 
Commands a high price; it is enormously productive. One of the most 
profitable plums we have. Ripens early in October. 

Imperial Gage — Rather large oval, greenish; flesh juicy, rich, delici- 
ous, a good grower. Ripens middle of August. 

Lombard — Medium, round, oval, violet, red, juicy, pleasant and good; 
adheres to the stone; productive. A valuable market variety. Ripens in 
August. 

Shipper's Pride — Large, round, purple; very firm, excellent quality. 
Very productive. A great market plum. Ripens in August and Septem- 
ber. 

Washington — All things considered, this is one of the finest and most 
popular plums. Fruit very large, roundish oval; skin yellow, with a 
slight crimson blush in well ripened specimens; flesh very sweet and 
luscious. Tree vigorous, with broad, handsome foliage; very productive. 
Ripens about September 1st. 

Green Gage — Small but of the highest excellence. Tree a moderate 
grower. Should be top grafted to get good trees. Ripens in September. 

Spaulding — Tree a strong grower, with broad, rich, dark foliage; 
fruit large, yellowish-green, with marblings of deeper green, and a deli- 
cate white bloom; flesh pale yellow, very firm, sprightly, sugary and 
rich; fine for canning Ripens about August 20th. 

Niagara — Of extra large size and first rate flavor; color dark blue. 
Good bearer; not liable to rot. Ripens about August 1st. We regard it 
as one of the best new varieties. 

Moore's Artie. — Size medium or below; skin purplish black, with a 
thin blue bloom; flesh greenish yellow, juicy, sweet and of pleasant 
flavor. Charles Downing speaks of it as follows: "A new, hardy plum, 
which originated on the high lands of Aroostook county, Maine, where 
unprotected and exposed to cold, it has for many years borne enormous 
crops, and is claimed to be the hardiest plum grown. Tree healthy, vig- 
orous; an early and abundant bearer." Valuable for market. Ripens in 
September. 

Fellenberg (French or Italian Prune). — A fine late Plum; oval; pur- 
ple; flesh juicy and deliciousi; parts from stone; fine for drying. Tree a 
free grower and very productive. Ripens in September. 

Coe's Golden Drop — Large and handsome, oval; light yellow; flesh 



38 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

firm, rich and sweet; adheres to the stone. Tree a moderate grower and 
very productive. Valuable not only on account of its large size and fine 
appearance, but its lateness. Ripens last of September. 

Wild Goose — An improved variety of the Chickasaw, evident in the 
great vigor of the tree and increased size of the fruit, which is nearly 
as large as the Green Gage. Skin purple, with a bloom; flesh juicy, 
sweet and adheres to the stone. Ripens last of July. 

Jefferson — A fine variety; yellow, with a red cheek; flesh orange 
colored, juicy and rich; parts from the stone. Tree a slow grower, but 
productive. Ripens last of August. 

Yellow Gage — Fruit large, oval; skin golden yellow; flesh deep yel- 
low, rich, sugary and melting. Tree very vigorous and productive. 
Ripens last of August. 



NECTARINES. 



This is a very valuable and interesting fruit, but like the Apricot, it 
requires some special warm, sheltered place and thorough tillage in order 
to thrive and produce fruit; then it will give astonishingly good results. 
It must be understood, however, that this fruit cannot survive the vigors 
of a severe northern climate under any circumstances when grown in 
the open ground. The trees should be planted fifteen feet apart; they 
should be pruned, cultivated, fertilized and treated precisely like the 
peach trees. The Nectarine is especially susceptible to the depredations 
of the Curculio insects, more so perhaps than the Plums. They should, 
be treated for this in the same way that we have previously recom- 
mended for the Plum. This is a most delicious, smooth skinned fruit, 
that thrives admirably on any land that will produce peaches. We name 
and describe a few of the best and most reliable sorts: 

Boston — Large, deep yellow, with a bright blush and mottlings of red; 
sweet and a peculiar, pleasant flavor; freestone; the largest and most 
beautiful variety known; hardy and productive. Ripens in September. 

Early Violet. — Medium sized, yellowish green, nearly covered with 
dark purplish red; juicy, rich and high flavored. Ripens in August. 

Early Newington — Large, pale green, nearly covered with blotches of 
red; juicy, rich and sweet; probably the best clingstone Nectarine. 
Ripens in September. 

Elruge. — Medium size, pale green, with a dark red cheek; flesh pale 
green, very juicy and rich. Ripens in September. 

Hunt's Tawney — Medium; pale orange; juicy, rich and excellent; 
very early and productive; the best of its season, and worthy of general 
cultivation on account of its hardiness; freestone. Ripens in August. 

Red Roman — Large size, greenish yellow, with a dark, dull red 
cheek; flesh yellowish, fine and rich; productive. Ripens in September. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



39 



CHERRY TREES. 



Most any kind of land is suitable for the Cherry, excepting ground 
that is excessively moist or where water remains on the surface any 
great length of time after a rain storm. It should be remembered, how- 
ever, that the cherry grows better and gives better results on dry land; 
this seems to be its natural and favored home, and when^ grown and 
fruited on soil of this character it will be a pleasant surprise to all with 
its magnificent growth and immense productiveness of luscious fruit. 
We know of no other species of fruit trees that can be so successfully 
grown on dry situations as the Cherry. There is not in our enlarged col- 
lection of fruit trees any other family that we can recommend that will 

be as desirable, beneficial and profitable 
to serve the double purpose of furnish- 
ing us with fruit and shade. Were we 
restricted to one tree, we would unhesi- 
tatingly select the Cherry on account of 
its all around valuable services. The 
Cherry is one of our best fruits for home 
consumption and profitable for market 
purposes. It is a common occurrence to 
have a tree of the sweet sort produce 
twenty dollars worth of fruit. We have 
picked from the sour kinds sixty pounds 
of fruit when the trees had been planted 
only four years. Cherry trees are divid- 
ed into two classes, namely, Heart and 
Bigarreau, and Duke and Morrello. 

THE HEART AND BIGARREAU 
CHERRIES. 

These are commonly called sweet 
cherries, and are large, vigorous growers 
and make a magnificent tree with large, 
open, spreading heads. They are orna- 
mental and the foliage remains on the 
trees the greatest portion of the year, 
coming into leaf very early in the Spring 
and remain so in the Fall later than most 
any other fruit tree. They are desirable 
lor both fruit and shade. It is detri- 
^ mental to keep the Cherry under con- 
stant tillage, which causes the bursting 
open of the bark of the tree. In fact, 
after the Heart and Bigarreau trees have been planted three or four 
years it is best to seed down the ground with grass. These are desirable 
to plant in odd corners, about buildings, along fences and for fruit and 
shade on your ground along the public highway. The ground should be 
prepared for them and they should be handled and treated as recom- 
mended in the opening chapter of this book. 

Pruning — When planting, the Cherry should not be cut back as 
severely as the other fruits; remove one-third of the wood, which is quite 




40 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

sufficient and the after pruning should be done sparingly, keeping the 
head of the tree open by removing the small branches each year. It 
is a dangerous undertaking to remove large limbs from the cherry tree; 
we have seen fatal results from this practice in the years past. The 
fruit of the cherry is somewhat susceptible to rotting, particularly so in 
rainy seasons. This can be largely, in fact, almost entirely, overcome 
by spraying with the Paris Green solution (formulated on page 11), 
just after the fruit sets and again in about two weeks after first applica- 
tion. For Black Aphis, which so often covers the ends of the present 
season's growth and quirl up the leaves, spray with kerosene emulsion. 
This is also described on page 12. 

Plant Twenty-five Feet Apart — The Heart and Bigarreau family that we 
have under consideration at this writing should be planted twenty-five 
feet apart each way. When they are grown in rows for orchard purposes 
the ground can be cropped between the trees with low grown vegetables 
for three or four years after they are planted, then, as previously stated, 
the ground should be seeded down to grass. Always give the Cherry 
shallow cultivation. 

Fertilizers — Any of the kinds recommended for Plums or Peaches 
can be used for the Cherry. It must be applied judiciously to guard 
against an over supply of wood growth which would exhaust the trees 
and produce injury by splitting of the bark heretofore referred to. An- 
other efficacious way to prevent this splitting of the bark, and more 
especially sunscald, in localities where the Cherry is particularly sus- 
ceptible to injuries of these kinds is in the beginning to head the tree 
low down near the surface of the ground, leaving not more than two feet 
of a clean, smooth trunk. The practice ordinarily is to head the tree 
four or five feet from the ground. 

VARIETIES OF CHERRIES— Heart and Bigarreau. 

One of the things that we have reason to be grateful for in horticul- 
ture is the rather limited list of varieties of cherries as compared with 
other fruits. The disseminators of new fruits have not been as studious 
and interested in the production of new varieties of the cherries as with 
other fruits. We have, however, a choice list fully large enough for all 
practical purposes, and no one will make a mistake in planting the varie- 
ties that are here selected and named: 

Black Eagle — Moderate growth. Large, black; tender, rich and 
juicy; best. Ripening first of July. Tree a good, fair grower and mod- 
erately productive. 

Black Tartarian — Very large, purplish black, half tender, flavor mild 
and pleasant. Ripe last of June and beginning of July. One of the 
most popular varieties in all parts of the country. Trees are remarkably 
strong growers, regular and productive bearers; grown largely for mar- 
ket purposes, for which it has no superior. 

Coe's Transparent — Medium size, pale amber, red and mottled next 
the sun; tender, sweet and fine; one of the best. Ripens last of June 
and first of July. 

Gov. Wood — The' finest of Dr. Kirtland's seedlings, of Ohio; clear, 
light red, tender, delicious. An old reliable sort; strong grower and pro- 
ductive. Ripens end of June. 

Knight's Early Black — Large, black, tender, juicy, rich and excellent; 
good grower and productive. Valuable on account of its earliness. The 
trees are good average growers. Season from middle to last of June. 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



41 



Mercer — Tree a good grower, very hardy. Fruit dark, red, larger 
than Black Tartarian, and equally as fine in flavor. Ripens the end of 
June. 

Napeoleon — A magnificent cherry of the largest size, pale yellow, 
with a bright red cheek, flesh very firm, juicy and sweet. An old reliable 
standard variety, grown extensively for market; trees are vigorous grow- 
ers and exceedingly productive. Season first part of July. 

Rockport — Large, pale amber in the shade, light red in the sun; half 
tender, sweet and good. Trees strong, erect growers and productive. 
Ripens early in July. 

Schmidt's Big- 
arre.au — Fruit 
of the largest 
size; in color a 
rich, glossy 
black. T r e e a 
good grower and 
bears abundant 
crops. Rip ens 
early in July. 

Windsor— The 
cherries are ob- 
tuse, heart shap- 
ed, dark purple 
or nearly black; 
fine in texture 
and of the best 
flavor, Tree 
har d y and ex- 
ceedingly produc- 
tive. A very val- 
uable late vari- 
ety for market and family use. Within the last few years the Windsor 
has been planted extensively. We hear good reports from it from all 
sections. The trees bear young and regularly with us. Fruit ripens the 
last of July. 

Yellow Spanish — Large, pale yellow, with a bright red cheek in the 
sun, flesh firm, juicy and delicious. Valuable on account of its early 
ripening; trees productive and strong growers. Ripens about middle of 
June. 

DUKE AND MORREELO CHERRIES. 

These should be planted fifteen feet apart, and should be treated 
much the same as the Heart and Bigarreau. The trees are not near as 
large as the last mentioned family and can be planted closer together. 
In all cases these should be headed low down, or say within two feet of 
the ground. Dukes and Morrellos will come into bearing the second and 
third years after being planted, and are good, regular abundant fruiters. 
Of late years they are grown much more extensively for commercial 
orcharding than the other class, and from various reports received from 
a large territory they seem to be more profitable, except in the case of 
some of the Dukes, like the May Duke, the fruit of which is sub-acid 
and is, of course, used principally for preserving or canning. The fruit 
does not rot like the sweet species and can remain on the tree for two 
or three weeks after becoming ripe; this is a valuable privilege and one 




42 DWYEE'S GUIDE. 

that is thoroughly appreciated at all times, more particularly on occas- 
sions when the market may be a little over supplied with fruit of this 
kind. The Dukes and Morrellos are not as susceptible to splitting of the 
bark and sun-scald as the Hearts and Bigarreaus, consequently they can 
be kept under constant, clean tillage, and this is a necessity to the best 
results. However, they will grow, endure and do fairly well when 
grown in sod ground, along fence lines and in odd corners. Our own ex- 
perience with this family of cherries has been very interesting and at 
all times profitable and satisfactory. On many occasions and . in differ- 
ent years have "wife" and myself gathered four and five quarts of this 
fruit from three year old trees from the bud. These need spraying the 
same as the family of sweets; they are, however practically immune 
from the Black Aphis. The list of varieties are such and so constituted 
in their order of ripening that we can produce fruit from this class from 
early in June until late in July. This is a valuable consideration whether 
the trees to be planted are for home use or for market, and we should 
select our list of sorts to cover the entire season. It should be our aim 
and purpose at all times to train these Dukes and Morellos low to the 
ground. This can be done in the pruning, and is readily accomplished 
with the Morrellos. It is a little more difficult, however, with the 
Dukes. It is characteristic of them to grow in a pyramidal shape, yet if 
they are started right and headed low down when first planted this 
tendency is readily overcome. It is important that they should be headed 
back and kept in subjection in order to prevent a large, heavy top growth, 
which invariably causes the leading branches, and in many instances, one 
side of the tree, to break down with its heavy load of foliage and fruit. 
During the past two years the writer has lost valuable trees of the May 
Duke and Late Duke from this neglect and indifference in the proper 
formation of the trees. We should grow and shape our Duke and Mor- 
rello trees that we can gather the greater portion of the fruit from the 
ground and the balance with the use of an ordinary step ladder. The 
list of good varieties of these cherries is rather limited, but fully equal 
and sufficient for our wants. We follow with a splendid list, and we are 
not exaggerating or making an assertion that cannot be maintained when 
we state that they are all good: 

Belle Magnifique — Fruit large, roundish; skin bright red; flesh tender, 
juicy, sprightly sub-acid; one of the finest of this class of cherries. Tree 
hardy, vigorous and very productive. Ripens last of July. 

Dyehouse — Partakes of both the Duke and Morrello in wood and 
fruit; a very early and sure bearer; ripens a week before Early Rich- 
mond, of better quality, and quite as productive. Ripens in June. 

Empress Eugenie — tf'ruit large, dark red, very rich, tender and sub- 
acid. A superior variety. The trees are good, strong growers, combining 
the characteristics of the Duke and Morrello. They come into bearing 
early; season of fruit during July. 

Early Richmond — The most popular of all for commercial purposes 
and for home use; is being fruited and planted extensively; bears well 
every year. Medium size; dark red, melting juicy, sprightly acid flavor. 
This is one of the most valuable and popular of the acid cherries, and is 
unsurpassed for cooking purposes. Tree a slender grower, with a 
roundish, spreading head, and is exceedingly productive. The most hardy 
of all varieties, uninjured by the coldest winters, when almost every 
other variety has been killed. Ripens through June. 

English Morel lo.— Medium to large, blackish red, rich, acid, juicy and 
good. A good companion for the Early Richmond; trees vigorous grow- 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 43 

ers and regular fruiters; very prolific. One of the best we have for ex- 
tending the season for fruit. Ripens during the month of July and in late 
exposures the fruit will remain on the tree until along in August. 

Large Montmorency — Very hardy and an immense bearer; commences 
to fruit while young, and is loaded annually thereafter with fine crops. 
Fruit very large, fine flavor, and of bright, clear, shining red; valuable 
everywhere. Ripens midway between Early Richmond and English 
Morello; trees strong growers. 

Late Duke — Fruit large; dark red, late and fine. Trees are early pro- 
ducers, prolific and good growers. Ripens late in July. 

Louis Phillippe — Extra hardy; vigorous grower and very productive; 
large size; rich dark red; flesh red, tender, juicy, with mild sub-acid 
flavor. A valuable variety that is being planted largely; valuable for all 
purposes. Ripens in July. 

May Duke — Large, dark red, juicy and rich, and an excellent variety; 
productive. The May Duke comes into bearing as early as any of the 
Dukes or Morellos; it is a vigorous grower and makes an abundance of 
wood each season; the fruit is pleasing to the eye and of fine 
rich sub-acid flavor; delicious for eating and the choicest for canning. 
It ripens early in May, which isi a desired quality. 

Olivet — This variety is of the greatest value. Fruit large; flesh red, 
with rose-colored juice, tender, rich and vinous, with mild sub-acid flavor. 
As productive as the best of the Duke sorts, and probably the largest of 
this class. Ripens in June and is largely grown for the leading markets. 



QUINCE TREES. 



This is a very valuable fruit and profitable when well grown and 
cared for. It is of late years being planted quite extensively. The 
Quince succeeds on most any kind of land, over a wide territory, and un- 
der varied climatic conditions. It does best, however, on good, rich, 
heavy soil underlaid with clay. On land of this, character the trees seem 
to live longer and endure careless or indifferent cultivation and in 
fact, we have seen them produce good crops from year to year under 
these unfavorable conditions on land of this kind. There is always a 
good demand for Quinces; we have never yet seen the time when a good 
fair fruit could not be disposed of at a paying price. The Quince is used 
almost exclusively for canning by itself, and often to good advantage 
mixed with other fruits to add to their flavor and lusciousness.When used 
for this purpose one quart of Quinces to five of the other fruit is about 
the proper proportions. The Quince comes into bearing three to four 
years after being planted and thereafter fruits annually. Prepare the 
ground the same as for the other fruits as directed in the beginning of 
this work. For orchard planting set the trees fifteen feet apart each 
way. You can for several years grow low growing vegetables or some 
of the small fruits with them, preferably the Strawberry or Currant, or 
both, by planting the Strawberry between the rows of trees and the Cur- 
rants between the trees in the row. When this system is adopted we can 
cultivate only one way. We have grown these small fruits in a Quince 
orchard for a number of years and found them a desirable and profitable 



44 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

combination. The Quince is a favorite tree for the Borer to attack, and 
they should be examined two or three times each year for this villain- 
ous, destructive pest. The trees rarely attain a height of over ten to 
twelve feet, and on account of its semi-dwarf habit is a convenient and 
useful tree to plant in odd corners of the garden or near the edge of the 
road or walk. The trees are not as productive of large wood growth as 
the other tree fruits, their tendency being to grow stocky, thus making 
a quantity of small wood over the entire tree. This is conducive to a 
close, dense tree in the center and, of course, for best results this super- 
fluous wood must be removed each year, the purpose being to keep the 
tree open in the center. Occasionally, and without any apparent cause, in- 
dividual branches will die off; these should be removed promptly. Some- 
times blight will attack the end of the growing branches in the 
Summer. Cut this back, down below the live wood as soon as it sihows it- 
self and burn it. When the trees are over bearing thin off the fruit same 
as you would for Pears or Peaches, leaving the samples five to six inches 
apart. When planting your trees prune back severely and start the head 
close to the ground; a clean trunk of eighteen inches is all sufficient 
below the first branches. Spray with the Bordeaux Mixture same as for 
Plums and Cherries. Fertilize and keep your trees in vigorous growing 
condition with top dressings of well rotted stable manure, unleached 
wood ashes, nitrate of soda, pure ground bone, or some good make of com- 
mercial fertilizer. Whatever you use should be at once incorporated 
with the soil to obtain full benefit. When your soil needs humus and 
nitrogen seed down in July or August with Red or Crimson Clover as 
previously recommended and explained under the heading, "The Use of 
Clover." 

The varieties hereafter named are all good and trustworthy: 

Bourgeat Quince — This is the most remarkable of all Quinces. There 
is no other variety which grows so vigorously, and there is no other 
variety of fruit which will keep so long in perfect condition. The Bour- 
geat Quince bears at an early age, producing large crops of exceedingly 
large and handsome fruit, of a rich golden color. While it ripens soon 
after the Orange, it keeps till past mid-winter when desired, or it is ready 
to use at once on maturity. This is a remarkable characteristic, since 
ordinary Quinces are of a perishable nature. The crop can be held in 
the hands of the grower or in the hands of the purchaser until the mar- 
ket suits his fancy. Three bushels of fruit have been gathered from a 
ten-year'old tree. A lady writes , that she finds it superior to all others 
for cooking quickly, like apples. It has received first premium at the 
Massachusetts Horticultural Society and other societies. Season for 
fruit October until December. 

Champion — Fruit averages larger than Orange, more oval in shape, 
quality equally fine, and a longer keeper, a splendid Quince. Season for 
ripening October and November. 

Meech's Prolific. — A vigorous grower, and immensely productive, fre- 
quently bearing fruit when but two years planted, increasing in quantity 
yearly to such an extent as to require vigorous thinning to prevent injury 
to the tree from over-bearing. 

The fruit is large, lively orange color, of great beauty and delight- 
ful fragrance. Its cooking qualities are unsurpassed. Ripens, October 
and November. 

Orange. — Large, roundish, bright golden yellow, cooks tender and is 
of very excellent flavor. This is perhaps the earliest good Quince we 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 45 

have, and is valuable on this account as well as for its annual bearing 
and productive fruit. Ripens early in October. 

Rea's Mammoth. — A superb fruit, much larger than Orange, but of 
the same form and color. Tree healthy, very thrifty grower, productive. 
Season for fruit, October and early November. 



THE MULBERRY. 



This tree is not extensively grown and cultivated for its fruit, which 
is not popular with the classes, probably because we have such a quantity 
of fruit at its season of ripening that is richer and of better flavor, yet 
we have found many people who like the flavor of the Mulberry and eat 
it with great relish. It was the late noted divine, Henry Ward Beecher, 
who remarked, "I would rather have a tree of the Downing Mulberry 
than a bed of strawberries." The fruit begins to ripen early in July, and 
continues in bearing for six to eight weeks, a desirable and valuable 
characteristic which will be appreciated by all who like the fruit. How- 
ever, the Mulberry has another and very important value: it is a mag- 
nificent shade tree, a clean, healthy, vigorous grower, developing into a 
large handsome tree. It is furnished with a profusion of foliage of deep 
verdure, making a dense and delightful shade and is one of our choicest 
ornamental trees and suitable for planting on home grounds and about 
the poultry yards, as the fowl like the fruit and eat it as soon as it drops 
from the trees. The trees are easily grown, thrive well in sod ground 
and need little if any pruning. An important factor in planting the 
Mulberry, and generally overlooked, is their fruit attract the birds and 
keep them from destroying our other fruits. We want the birds and 
should plant fruit such as the Mulberry for their benefit. 

Downing. — This is the finest variety of Mulberry yet introduced and its 
rapid growth, profusion of foliage of such deep verdure and dense shade 
should give it popularity. It is a charming tree, with a shapely and com- 
pact habit of form, long-lived, and its wood very durable. The fruit is 
very abundant. It is sweet, is free from the mawkish, cloying sweetness 
of other Mulberries, and is really very good. We regard it as especially 
desirable for planting in grounds of limited extent, such as the village 
door yard, where but one or two shade trees are grown. For this purpose 
it is not excelled by any other tree and no one will regret planting it. 

Russian. — A very hardy, rapid growing timber tree of great value, 
especially at the West. Introduced by the Mennonites; foliage abundant, 
and is said to be very desirable in the culture of silk worms. Fruit of 
good size and produced in great abundance. 

Hick's Everbearing. — Remarkably prolific and remains a very long 
time in bearing; the fruit is of good size, rich and sweet. An excellent 
sort for furnishing food for poultry, which are excessively fond of Mul- 
berries. By many this is esteemed superior to Downing. 

New American. — Equal to Downing, but a much hardier tree; fruit 
large and black. 



46 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

NUTS. 



Nut tree planting has become very popular of late. We have been 
importing annually over two million dollars' worth of nuts that we have 
learned of late years can be grown just as easily in our own country. 
The tree should be planted, pruned and cultivated much the same as we 
treat our fruit trees. 

Varieties like the Paragon and Numbo chestnuts will come into bear- 
ing the second year after being planted, The fruit is very large and ot 
the best quality. The Chestnut, Walnut and Hickories should be planted 
twenty-five feet apart; The Filberts fifteen feet apart. The writer 
grows these nuts in the orchard with his Apples, Peaches, Pears and 
Plums and has had a very pleasant and satisfactory experience with 
them. From top grafted trees two years planted we have had twenty- 
five to forty large burrs of fruit 
which nearly all matured. This im- 
mense productiveness increases as 
the trees grow older. They are at 
once both valuable and ornamental" 
and should be in every fruit garden. 
The varieties that gave us such 
early and astonishing good results 
are Paragon, NumbO' and Success. 
These were of course grown in 
rather a limited way. We are only 
recommending these nuts for tho 
private garden and in a small way. 
We have not had a large and finish- 
ed experience with them and can- 
not advise them in a large way for 
market purposes. Nut growing for 
profit is of itself quite a specialty and as a matter of fact must be the 
result of years of experience and experimenting; then, in this particular 
branch of horticulture very much depends on the man and his careful 
attention to many little details which must be attended to at the proper 
time to insure success. In a word, one must have a special liking for this 
work; then too, much depends on the territory, the land and exposure. 
Most any land that is not cold or too wet will answer for the growing of 
these nuts. They have done best with us, however on a clay loam. It is al- 
ways best to plant the trees rather than the nuts, which will not repro- 
duce themselves. There is quite an extended list of varieties and we make 
a selection of what we believe to be the best, all things considered. 

CHESTNUTS. 

Paragon. — This variety has become very popular of late and to our 
knowledge is being planted quite extensively. The tree is a rapid, strong, 
vigorous grower and comes into bearing a short time after being planted. 
It is productive of large nuts; the flavor is very good. We can reccom- 
mend this variety to all. 

Numbo. — A hardy, productive variety of European origin, but seems 
well adapted to this climate. It ripens early, nuts are large and of good 
quality. An early fruiter; an exceedingly productive and annual bearer. 




DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



47 




Japan Giant Chestnut. — The tree is decidedly ornamental, hardy and 
productive, of dwarf habit, bearing extremely young; nuts of enormous 
size. 

Ridgley. — Tree of immense size and very productive, more than 5 
bushels of nuts, which sold at $11 per bushel, having been gathered from 
the original tree in a single season; burrs are of medium size and carry 
from 2 to 3 nuts each; nuts of medium size, with some fuzz at point; 
kernels sweet and of good quality. One of the most valuable. Tree very 
healthy. 

American or Sweet. — The well- 
known chestnut of the forest. In 
sweetness and delicacy of flavor, or as 
a shade tree, unsurpassed. These 
trees grow to enormous size and bear 
every year prolific crops of fruit of 
the highest quality. 

Comfort. — A very large, hand- 
some nut, that has been, grown in 
Pennsylvania for many years, and is 
found so nearly identical with Para- 
gon in growth and fruit that it is not 
improbable that it was a nut of this American sweet 

variety from which Mr. Schaeffer, of Germantown, grew the original Para- 
gon tree. Comes to fruitage very young, and is an enormous bearer of 
nuts of very good quality. 

Spanish Chestnut. — A very hardy, productive nut and becoming' 
more popular each year. 

Japan Mammoth. — Immense size, and of fine flavor; the burrs con- 
tain at times as many as five large nuts; the tree is similar in habit 
and growth to the Italian Chestnut; they yield fruit in two years after 
planting; seedlings vary in size and shape, as well as in habit of growth' 
and productiveness, and are not so reliable as grafted trees. 

Early Reliance (Japan). Tree of dwarf, spreading habit; begins to 
bear very young. Nuts large, smooth and very attractive. Enormously 
productive. 

PECANS. 

Pecan. — The Pecan bears oblong, smooth thin-shelled nuts, with 
sweet and delicious kernels. The nuts are very desirable for family use, 
or valuable for market. 

Pecan, (Thin Shelled). — 
This nut, so very well known 
and so highly prized by all, is 
of the easiest culture and hardy 
at the North. The nuts are 
large and very thin-shelled. 
The best and earliest in bear- 
ing. Trees valuable for timber. 

HICKORY NUTS. 
Shell bark. — Tree of large 
growth, entirely hardy and pro- 
pecan. ductive. Nuts thin-shelled; 

kernel sweet and excellent. Al- 
ways sells readily at good prices. 




4^ 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



WALNUTS. 

Japan Walnut (Sieboldiana). — A native of the mountains of Japan. 
An extremely hardy, vigorous grower, bears young, very productive. 

Japan Walnut (Cordiformis). — Differs from Sieboldiana in form. 
The nuts are broad, pointed and flattened. The Japan Walnuts are valu- 
able for both their fine fruit and shade. 

English Walnut. — It is a profitable tree to 
plant, as it produces large crops of excellent 
nuts, and the large quantities of ripe nuts that 
are annually imported and sold here, prove the 
estimation in which they are held for the table. 
English Filbert, or Hazlenut. — Nut nearly 
round, rich and of excellent flavor, admired for 
dessert. Superior to our native Hazlenut. In 
every way the nuts are larger, fully as good 
in flavor. The trees are good strong growers, 
come into bearing a short time after being 
planted and are annual productive fruiters. 




THE STRAWBERRY. 

" Queen of the Small Fruits." 



My life has been more closely associated with the Strawberry than 
with any other fruit. At this period and after a protracted and uninter- 
rupted experience of thirty-five years the reference to this fruit always 
brings back pleasant memories of my boyhood days; the reader will 
therefore, I trust, be considerate and indulgent with me, if I transgress 
here, and for the moment lay aside the original purpose of this work to 
recall some of my early reminiscences. 

It was in 1865 when I was nine years of age that I first saw a bed 
of cultivated Strawberries. At that time I was employed grazing cows 
along the public highway, our own cow and any of the neighbor's that 
were willing to pay my father twenty-five cents a week per head for my 
services. Whilst thus engaged, and sitting on a stone wall in front of the 
small fruit farm of Mr. John Sutherland (long since gone to his reward) I was 
attracted by this bed of Strawberries in their early stages of development. 
It is perhaps needless for me to state that my interest was increased each day 
as the fruit began to color and turn red, and that I found it very convenient to 
graze the cows in that particular section of the road, and when asked for an ex- 
planation I answered that the grass was knee high there and the cows wanted 
to stay there all the time, but the fruit ripened and such heaps of it lay 
there it seemed to me that every plant was producing five quarts. Now, 
Mr Sutherland was an average good citizen, honest neighborly, stern and 
feared by the boys. Dare I ask him for some of those Strawberries? No, 1 
was afraid of him, and the best I could expect would be a few berries with 
a command to get myself and cows away from there. He would not turn 
me loose in that patch to help myself, of that I was sure. After debating 
the question with myself for two days, a little on what I then considred 
the great sin of stealing in this way and quite considerable on what 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



49 



seemed more important, the fear of getting caught, the evil impulses con- 
quered. I watched a favorable opportunity, climbed over the wall and 
helped myself, and reader, you know what that, means if you are ac- 
quainted with the capabilities of a nine year old boy in a strawberry 
patch in the beginning of the fruiting season. I came out filled and un- 
molested. I pass this spot quite frequently now and am always reminded 
of this incident, but must confess that I have never yet experienced any 
remorse, nor have I done any penance for this impudence; on the 
other hand, that small bed of strawberries awakened in me an en- 
thusiasm and interest for this fruit that has never faltered, but has in- 
creased each year. A few years later I was employed on the small fruit 
farm of the late E. P. Roe pulling weeds and picking strawberries. I at 
once became intensely interested in this fruit and after the fruiting sea- 
son knew all the varieties on the place by name as well as their individ- 
ual characteristics, but the moral of my story is yet to be briefly told. 
For the past twenty years since I have been in the nursery business for 
myself, fruiting each season from five to ten acres of strawberries, it has 
been an easy matter for me to deal kindly and patiently with the small 
boys and girls who have been caught in the fields helping themselves by 
eating and even gathering in baskets and otherwise The worst thing that 
ever happened to any of them for this liberty was a slight reprimand by 
some one else in authority. 

Preparation o f 
the Soil.— This should 
be done in the same 
thorough way as re- 
commended for the 
fruit trees, and if possi- 
ble we should be even 
more particular t o 
have the ground in 
the most perfect con- 
dition ; we should not 
stop plowing and har- 
rowing until we are 
sure that all the soil, 
top, middle and bot- 
tom, is thoroughly 
and finely pulverized. 
This is of absolute ne- 
cessity so that the 
small roots may have 
every favorable op- 
portunity to take hold 
and at once establish 
themselves in the 
ground. president. 

It has been my experience that many people defer planting the 
strawberry for the reason that they think, in order to be successful with 
it they must have some especially favored land, situation or location. 
This is a great mistake. The strawberry may be grown to perfection on 
any land that will produce a crop of potatoes, corn, peas or other vege- 
tables. Ground that has been used for vegetables or fruit is the best for 
the strawberry. Almost any soil will answer, but we must remember 
that the best results are obtained from a dark, rich loose soil with a clay 




50 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

sub-soil. When grown on land of this kind the fruit is always larger, of 
better color and flavor besides the plants mature their full crop when 
thus grown. Strawberies should not be planted on newly ploughed sod 
ground nor in land that water remains on after a rain. Such land bakes 
and consequently the soil is coarse and lumpy. Then, of course, it is next 
to impossible to cultivate such land as it should be. There is no single 
requirement in connection with trees, plants and vines of such supreme 
importance as the careful, intelligent and best preparation of the soil for 
the strawberry, with perhaps the possible exception of the asparagus, no 
fruit is so unsatisfactory and unprofitable when neglected or partially 
cared for. On the other hand, there is no other tree, plant or vine that 
is grown in the soil that will respond as liberally to good treatment as 
the strawberry. No one not well acquainted with their possibilities would 
think of believing what these plants are capable of producing when 
grown, cultivated and fruited under favorable conditions. Statements are 
misleading, deceptive, and often unreliable, particularly when we are 
not familiar with all the circumstances; therefore we hesitate to relate 
here in detail some of our pleasant experiences and surprises with the 
strawberry, lest perchance we might create in the minds of our readers 
too sanguine expectations from their prospective plantings of this fruit. 
We will state, however, and without fear of contradiction, that the pro- 
gressive, up-to-date fruit grower, one who has a thorough knowledge 
of the needs and requirements of this plant, can one year with another, 
with a good fair average market and other things being equal, get a net 
profit of two hundred and fifty dollars from an acre of strawberries. It 
may seem perhaps, a superfluous waste of time, and space for me to re- 
mind my readers who have their own gardens of the importance of grow- 
ing their own fruit. No home garden is complete or properly furnished 
without a liberal bed of this luscious fruit. All should have at least three 
varieties: early, intermediate and late, in order to lengthen the season. 
Aim to have fruit for every meal for six weeks — you can accomplish this 
purpose without much trouble. 

Fertilizers — If stable manure is to be used, and the ground previously 
used for some annual crop is in good fair fertility, it should be applied 
at the rate of ten to twelve tons to the acre, broadcasting it over the 
ground directly before the plowing. Unleached wood ashes is very 
desirable and valuable and it may be used at the rate of two tons to the 
acre, broadcasting it over the ground before the last harrowing. Then 
any good complete manure like the Mapes' Fruit and Vine manure can be 
used at the rate of one ton to the acre,spreading it over the ground like the 
wood ashes before the last use of the harrow. But this is not all; no mat- 
ter which one of the above three best manures you use directly after 
your plants are set out you should apply a little dressing around each 
plant. We prefer the complete fertilizer for this purpose and at the rate 
of six hundred pounds to the acre. Wood ashes is next best for this 
purpose and should be used at the rate of twelve hundred pounds per acre. 
Whatever is used should be applied in a ring near to and around the 
plant. Thus applied they are very beneficial, as the plant food will 
soon reach the roots with the rain or tillage and start them growing 
at. once. Hen manure mixed with three parts soil can also be used as a 
top dressing for Strawberries, at the rate of two tons of the mixture 
to the acre used as a top dressing before harrowing. Muriate of* potash 
and nitrate of soda can also be used as a top dressing for the strawberry. 
In using nitrate of soda be cautious in applying it when the foliage is 
wet from rain or dew. 

How to Plant.— For field culture the plant should be set four feet 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



51 




apart between the rows and two feet apart in the rows, requiring about five 
thousand five hundred plants to the acre. * By planting in this way you 
can form a matted row about twenty-two inches in width which will 
give you ample room for the cultivator at all times; then for the finest 
and largest fruit the plants in this matted row should be thinned out to 
six inches apart. This is not as large or expensive a job as it seems at 
first thought, and will repay for the trouble; this is the ideal system of 
fruiting the Strawberry for profitable results. 
We get fully one-third more fruit this way 
than in the hill system, which means to keep 
all runners removed from the parent plant, thus 
forming it into a large stool. When grown in 
this way for field culture the plants should be 
set three and one-half feet apart each way, 
and they can then be cultivated both ways 
from the beginnng to the end of the plantation. 
The removing of these runers as they appear 
is quite a troublesome and expensive work, 
so that the expense of cultivation is about the 
same with both systems. However, under the 
hill system we are perhaps a little better forti- 
right way of planting. fled against a severe drought, especially when 
the plants are in bloom and during the fruiting period for the reason that 
we can cultivate quite close to the plants and preserve the needed moist- 
ure. Still this can be done quite as efficaciously with the matted row 
system as heretofore described. 

For Garden Culture.— Where the tillage is to be done entirely with 
hand labor the plants can be set two and one-half feet apart between the 
rows and one foot apart in the row. You can adopt either the matted 
row or the hill system as you prefer for the home garden. 

Prepare a muddle composed of fine manure and water. Dip the roots 
of the plants in it, and be sure that all the roots are moistened. Heel 
them in the ground near where you are to 
plant them, and if the sun is very warm cover 
the leaves with hay, straw or sea grass. Avoid 
planting on a windy day; ten minutes wind is 
worse on the roots of plants than one hour's 
sun. Only drop a few plants in advance of the 
planter. Set the plant so that the crown 
shows above the surface. The Strawberry 
is divided into two classes — the perfect flower- 
ing kinds, that can be fruited alone or with 
others, and the imperfect or pistilate varie- 
ties that require pollination by the perfect 
or staminate class. There is no other objection to the imperfect plants; 
many of our best strawberries belong to this class, and as a rule they are 
the most perfect sorts. However, the flavor is rather inferior. You 
can use the line or marker to plant by. Set the roots straight down. 
Draw the soil around the plants with the hands, and so firm the soil 
around them that the leaf of the plants will break in two before the plants 
will allow themselves to leave their places. Should the ground be dry, 
or the sun very warm, use any mulching material at hand (that will ad- 
mit of light and air) to shade the plants for a few days, or until you have 
rain. 
Watering. — We do not recommend watering, except in extreme drought 




WRONG WAY OF PLANTING. 



52 



DWYEK'S GIUDE. 




PLANTED TOO DEEP. 




PLANTED TOO SHALLOW 



at the time of planting, but when it is done it 
should be applied at the rate of one pint to the 
plant. First make a shallow basin about the plant 
then use the water in this basin, and when it has 
worked its way down to the roots draw the soil 
back in this basin; in this way you will trap 
the moisture and retain it where it is needed; 
then if the entire plant can be protected from 
the sun for a few days so much the better. Water- 
ing as ordinarily practiced by sprinkiing the sur- 
face of the ground, leaving it exposed to the 
hot rays of the sun, the ground cracking open 
about the plants and making it possible for the rootsi to be injured by the 
weather, is positively detrimental to the welfare of the plant. 

When to Plant. — The ordinary layer Straw- 
berry plants can be planted in the Spring just 
as soon as the ground is dry enough to handle 
— the earlier the better. We have the months 
of March and April to plant in. When the con- 
ditions are favorable they can be planted the 
first week in May, but the plants are quite ad- 
vanced at this late season, and it is a risky un- 
dertaking to set them at this time, and we 
would not think of recommending this late 
planting, particularly in any large way. Plant 
as early as possible. Spring set plants should 
never be permitted to bear fruit the same year they are planted. Remove 
all fruit stalks as soon as they appear, then the plants will preserve their 
vitality and grow strong and vigorous for the coming season's fruiting. 
The Strawberry can be planted again any time after August first until 
the later part of November, which is a very good time to set them out. 
When they are planted during the months of 
August and September they will bear a nice 
lot of fruit the season following without injury 
to the plants. 

Pot Grown Plants can be planted to good' 
advantage any month in the year that you can 
prepare your ground for them except during 
the months of June and July. These plants 
will produce choice, fine fruit the first fruit- 
ing season after they are set out. They are, of 
course, more expensive than the ordinary 
ground layer plants and are intended for and 
principally used by those with small private gardens, or those who are 
in a hurry to get fruit as early as possible after planting. 

Cultivation. — Use the cultivator and hoe for this purpose always. 
Strive to kill the weeds before you can see them It will 
cost but little more to cultivate an acre of Strawberries than 
it will to cultivate an acre of potatoes or corn, providing of 
course, the work is done at the proper time. Keep 
the ground free from weeds. If you do this you 
will give the proper cultivation. We plow between 
the rows as early in Spring as the ground is fit 
to work, and use the cultivator as often afterwards 
as is necessary to keep the ground mellow, right 
up to the time when they are in bloom. In fact, we 
have often run the cultivator between the rows 
after the fruit was ripe. This Spring cultivation pistillate. 




PERFECT FLOWER. 




DWYEE'S GUIDE, 53 

increase both the size and yield of the fruit. If you have a matted row about 
twenty-two inches wide you have the very best" row for fruit, and will have 
ample room for horse and cultivator between the rows. In the small gar- 
den bed this tillage can be done with the spade and hoe. 

Mulching. — This is essential to the best results, as it keeps the 
ground moist and the fruit clean. It should be practiced always in the 
small planting for home use and in fact by all who make a business of 
producing the choicest and most attractive fruit that at all times will 
be clean and free from the soil after heavy rains during the fruiting 
period. This mulching should be placed directly under the plants; it is 
not necessary to cover the cultivated land between the rows with it. 
However, it is beneficial to do this and when we have plenty of material 
it is recommended. Apply this mulch directly before the fruit ripens or 
just as soon as the berries begin to show color directly after the last till- 
age of the plantation, which should be as late as possible. This mulch 
should be about one inch in thickness, or just sufficient to cover the 
ground from view. Many materials are used for this purpose, such as 
wheat, rye and oat straw and newly cut grass, which should be used in 
its green state directly as soon as cut. Grass is the most convenient 
article to use when it can be procured, and it is almost always available. 
A load of it judiciously distributed will cover a surprisingly large area 
of ground. 

Winter Protection. — One of the most important things necessary for 
a good crop of fruit is the protection of the plants during the winter, and 
more especially during the Spring months this is necessary to prevent 
the plants from heaving during the frequent freezing and thawing at this 
season of the year. In changeable Winter weather, such as we have had 
for several years past, we are liable to lose our entire crop of fruit for 
neglect of this protection. Many materials are used for this purpose, but 
positively the best covering is horse manure. As soon as the ground 
becomes frozen you can drive on the beds and cover the plants well from 
view and let it remain on the plants in the Spring until very late. Straw- 
berries need both food and covering and I know of no better way of sup- 
plying these needs at one and the same time than to cover them with 
this manure. "Yes, horse manure will bring weeds, the greatest blessing 
we have. Plants choked by weeds always remind me of the crying babe 
in the cradle; both need care, attention and nursing." Nature, always 
provident and generous, comes to relieve them by fortifying them, to ask 
for what they want. Straw of any kind is also good for Winter protec- 
tion and is used largely for this purpose; evergreen boughs also are very 
desirable in a limited way for the small bed; these, like straw, neces- 
sitates removal again in the Spring, making considerable labor, whereas 
when horse manure is used it needs only to be removed to the cultivated 
ground between the rows and with plow and cultivator be incorporated 
with the soil. Be sure to let this covering remain on the plants until all 
danger of frost is past in the Spring. Do not be deceived by a day or two 
of premature warm weather in the early Spring and assume that Summer 
is here and uncover your plants, regretting it afterwards. Always re- 
member that these plants will not be injured by covering, even if the 
weather is a little warm, the worst that can possibly happen is to retard 
the ripening of the fruit. It is better to be on the safe side and not un- 
cover until the season is well advanced. If we seem to be dwelling un- 
necessarily long on this matter, which is of supreme importance, it is to 
guard our readers against losses from repetition along these lines that 
have frequently come to our observation in the past — severe financial 



54 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



losses that could and should have been averted with a little knowledge 
and forethought. 

Fertilizers. — Can be applied, if needed, in the early Spring, directly- 
after the plants have been uncovered, by broadcasting it over the rows 
in the quantities per acre as recommended heretofore. 

Rust on Strawberries. — This comes from various causes. Land that 
has been used continuously for strawberries for a number of years is al- 
most sure to produce it. The only remedy then is to plow the plants un- 
der and use the land for a year or two for other crops. Then rust comes 
from an excessive wet season or from long and protracted drought. We 
should spray with the Bordeaux Mixture or the Ammoniacal Copper Car- 
bonate Solution. We must not use these sprays during the fruiting sea- 
son, but in the early Spring, or as soon as the crop has been harvested. 
To guard against rust we must in the beginning select our stock of plants 
from young, vigorous beds that are used exclusively for propagating pur- 
poses and not from worn out old plants or beds that have been fruited 
for several years and consequently of low vitality and vigor. 

VARIETIES OF STRAWBERRIES. 

We have in the past twenty-five years fruited many hundreds of 
varieties of strawberries. For one reason or another nearly all of them 
have been discarded. It will probably surprise some of our horticultural 
friends and acquaintances to observe below the small number of sorts 
we have selected from this long list as the best and the ones we recom- 
mend. We have a pretty accurate knowledge of these kinds and believe 
they will give general satisfaction and good results over a large ter- 
ritory. Besides the ones we mention there are others that succeed and 
do well in some favored sections, or perhaps near the home of their 
origin. Such varieties are local in their character and not worthy of gen- 
eral recommendation, li is always safest to select a few of the good old 
reliable standard sorts that we find in general use throughout the coun- 
try. Occasionally we find a berry of unknown parentage that is valuable 
in a local way; more often, however, we find upon investigation, that 
these so called new wonders are old kinds with new names or without 
any name. As heretofore explained the perfect flowering kinds will bear 
alone or with other sorts. The pistillate varieties must have every third 
row of the staminates. 

Beder Wood (Perfect Flowers). — 
An early staminate variety of great 
merit, producing large crops of good 
sized fruit of excellent quality, round; 
smooth, regular in shape, bright scar- 
let in color; good for market or for 
home use. 

Bubach (Pistillate). — Plants are 
strong, rampant, healthy growers, one 
of the best for market. The fruit is 
firm, of good flavor, dark rich color, 
and pleasing appearance. Season sec- 
ond early. The Bubach has taken a 
very prominent place in strawberry 
culture. This berry is planted large- 
ly with the Sharpless, the size, color 
and shape being much alike. If we 
were going to fruit the strawberry for 
^^ppM*"-- commercial purposes, we would plant 

beder wood. largely of the Bubach for many rea- 




DWYER'S GUIDE. 



55 



sons ; it can stand the severest droughts, and has very large foliage 
to protect its blossoms from late frosts. Needs to be planted with a per- 
fect flowering kind. 

Haverland (Pistillate). — Exeedingly vigorous, produces a great num- 
ber of long fruit-stalks, loaded with medium to large, long, conical, pale 
scarlet berries. Very regular and uniform in size, making a superb show 
in the basket or on the table; of fair flavor and valuable for market in 
many sections. Needs to be grown with a perfect kind; ripens early. 

Brandywine (Perfect Flowers) — The fruit is of large size and fine 
quality, firm and shapely for so large a berry, foliage of the largest and 
thriftiest. The shape is uniformly good. In general it is heart shape. 
Flesh red, firm and solid for so large a berry, none more so. Vines ex- 
ceedingly prolific. Brandywine continues a long time in fruit, a very 
profitable, variety and one that is being planted largely. Desirable for 
the home garden and for market; a late variety. 

Cumberland Triumph (Perfect Flowers). — An old reliable early berry 
of fine flavor, desirable for home use. Plants good growers and produc- 
tive of uniform large fruit that holds its size to the end of the season; 
fruit light crimson in color and one of our best canning berries. 

Gandy (Perfect Flowers). — This 
superb late variety is second to none 
as a fine, handsome, beautiful, firm, 
fine flavored, late berry. The fruit 
always brings the highest market 
price. This is one of the most profit- 
able berries to grow for a fancy mar- 
ket or for home use, where quality is 
the first consideration. The plant is 
a strong, compact grower; productive 
of large size, handsome, regular ber- 
ries, which hold out large to the last 
picking. The fruit is bright, beauti- 
ful, one of the best, if not the best, for 
market we have. But its superior 
flavor is what commends it to all in 
search of a good late berry in every 
respect. 

Glen Mary (Perfect Flowers). — 
The plants are strong and robust 
growers, with clean, healthy foliage. 
It is productive of very large fruit of 
nearly round, uniform shape. The 
color is light red. The flavor is very 
good for so large a berry. One of its 
chief characteristics is that the last of the fruit is quite as large as the 
first that ripens. 

It is certainly a very productive, valuable variety for a nearby mar- 
ket, and we are able to recommend it for this purpose, or for home use. 
One of the best early berries in cultivation. 

Parsons (Perfect Flowers). — Strong grower and very prolific; fruit, 
medium to large; color, a beautiful shade of light red; fine flavor. 
Ripens with the mid-season berries. Can be grown successfully for 
either home use or commercial purposes. It commands the highest mar- 
ket prices. 




GANDY. 



56 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



Sample (Pistillate). — Plants good growers, fruit large, round and 
dark crimson in color and of good quality. It is productive and good for 
nearby market. Plant a perfect kind with it. 

Jessie (Perfect Flowers). — 
Very early, productive fruit, 
very large, light crimson in 
color, firm, and flavor of the 
best; one of the best vari- 
eties we have. A splendid all 
round berry for home use or 
market. 

Lovett's Early (Perfect 
Flower). — Its color is dark 
red. One of the best ship- 
pers we have. It is a perfect 
flowering variety, prolific 
and a good market berry and 
among the earliest to ripen. 

Margaret (Perfect Flow- 
ers). — The plant is large, 
healthy and a vigorous grow- 
er, having dark, glossy foli- 
age. It is very productive, 
and the fruit is of large size 
and quality. It ripens all 
over, a dark, glossy red, and 
retains its color to the cen- 
ter. Ripens in mid season. 

Marshall (Perfect Flowers) 
— The plants are the rank- 
est growers; away ahead of 

all others in this respect. 
In shape conical, very 
regular, each berry like 
the other; the color is a 
dark red crimson; flesh 
is solid and dark red; 
flavor is the very finest. 
It is possible to ship 
this berry hundreds of 
miles. 

It ripens with the early 
berries and continues in 
fruit until very late in the 
season. It gave us ber- 
ries for our own table for 
over three weeks. A 
choice berry for home use 
or fancy market. 

Michel's Early. — Un- 
usually early. Berries 
bright scarlet, conical, of 
excellent quality. Resists 
frost, drought and rust. 
The fruit is very early, 
which is its chief value. 





THE MARSHA!,!,. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



57 



Nick Ohmer (Perfect Flowers) .—The fruit is of the very largest 
size, a giant among strawberries. It is never misshapen. Its only de- 
parture from the regular roundish conical form is when, under high cul- 
ture, it is somewhat triangu- 
lar. It is dark, glossy red, 
firm and of excellent flavor. 
A superb, handsome, large 
fruit of the very finest flavor. 
Should be in every garden 
where size, color and high 
quality are the first consider-^ 
ation. It ripens in mid-sea-* 
son and continues a long 
time in fruit. 

Oom Paul (Perfect Flow- 
ers). — Origin of parentage 
Jessie and Bubach. Stupend- 
uous in size and delicious in 
flavor, nice shape, elegant 
color, shipping the best. The 
plant is a very rank grower 
Another strong point in favor 
of Oom Paul is that the last 
picking never runs small. 
Berries are very large, round- 
ish, conical; color glossy 
crimson. It is a wonderfully 
productive strawberry, and 
ripens early in the season. 
Desirable for market and the 
home garden. 

Parker Earle (Perfect Flow- 
ers). — The plants of this 
variety are exceedingly 
rank growers, with a tend- 
ency to make enormous stools. It has perfect flowers and good sized 
fruit, rather long, with short neck, firm, of good color and fine quality. 
It is one of the few varieties that is adapted to a wide range of country, 
and thrives well in so many different soils and climates. Ripening quite 
late in the season, it should be known as a late berry. When grown un- 
der high culture good for market purposes. 

President (Pistillate). — The plants are strong growers, producing 
an abundance of thick, leathery foliage, dark green in color, and standing 
very erect, and a thick, stocky fruit stalk. It is very prolific and brings 
the last berry to perfection. Ripens the last of May and continues a long 
time in fruit. In size it averages with the largest berries grown, and is 
absolutely uniform in shape, the berries being almost round, and free 
from unripened or gnarled ends. The flesh is firm and solid, without 
hollows or pithy cores. The color is a rich crimson. Valuable for all 
purposes; must be planted with a staminate variety. 

Wm. Belt (Perfect Flowers). — The plant is very large, a most luxuri- 
ant grower and remarkably productive. It is medium in ripening — 
neither very early or very late. Its size is very large indeed. No other 
variety ever gave us so many immense berries. The color is a brilliant 
glossy red. It ripens all over without green tips. The quality is of the 




oom paui,. 



58 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 




very best. Wm. Belt will be a valuable variety for home use or market. 
It is one of the most beautiful berries we have ever seen and valuable 
for commercial purposes as well as for home use. 

McKinley (Perfect Flowers). — Berry large, roundish, inclined to conical, 
but sometimes flattened or cox- 
combed, color crimson, flesh 
firm, quality good. The plants 
are strong growers, with fine, 
large, dark foliage. Very pro- 
ductive. It ripens in mid-sea- 
son and continues a long time 
in fruit. 

New York (Perfect Flowers). 
— In productiveness it is hard 
to believe that it has an equal. 
It is really astonishing when 
grown on good soil and with 
generous culture. Berries dark 
scarlet, changing to crimson 
when fully ripe, coloring all 
over at once; excellent in 
quality. In growth of plant it 
is exeedingly vigorous, with 
foliage that is large, bright and 
clean. For such a large berry NICK OHMEK ' 

it is a great bearer. Ripens in mid-season. 

The Rough Rider (Perfect Flowers).— The plants are strong, large 
growers, fruit medium in size, the flavor is poor being acid, reminding us 
of the old Wilson's Albany. Plants productive and ripen their fruit in 
mid-season. Valuable for distant market on account of its firmness. 

Senator Dunlap (Perfect Flowers). — Fruit is of good size, regular and 
attractive in form, deep red in color without and within, firm in sub- 
stance and excellent in quality. Its season is among the earliest and it 
continues productive nearly a month. Plants good, vigorous growers; 
valuable for all purposes. 

Sharpless (Perfect Flowers). — One of the most popular strawberries 
of the day. The plant is exceedingly large and vigorous, quite free from 
rust or blight. It demands well enriched soil and is one that will bring 
the home or market grower fine fruit. Berries are very large, dark crim- 
son in color and of first quality. 

THE COST TO GET AN ACRE OF STRAWBERRIES IN BEARING. 

We have been asked this question so often, and as it is so generally 
discussed, the writer has thought best to give his readers at least an 
approximate idea. While the cost will vary somewhat under different 
conditions and in separate localities, yet we feel quite sure that the 
figures we have prepared below will be found pretty accurate and reliable; 

In arranging for the planting of an acre of strawberries I would 
want land that had been previously cropped with fruits, grains or vege- 
tables. If the soil is in a fair ordinary state of fertility, I would want ten 
large team loads of the best stable manure that could be procured; I 
would prefer to have this manure half horse and half cow droppings 
mixed together and thoroughly rotted. Such manure as this costs us here 
in the Hudson River Valley two dollars per load delivered on the ground, 
or twenty dollars in all. The spreading of this manure, plowing, harrow- 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 59 

ing and fitting ground would cost six dollars. I would use the matted 
row system for fruiting and would set the plants two feet apart in the 
row and four feet apart between the rows; this would require five thou- 
sand five hundred plants, for the acre. Good strong northern grown 
plants are worth three dollars per thousand; this means, of course, six- 
teen dollars and fifty cents for the plants. It would cost five dollars and 
fifty cents to properly set these plants. I would then use one-half ton 
of Hardwood Unleached Ashes, or its equivalent; this would cost, ap- 
plied around the plants after they are set, eight dollars. The fruit stalks 
should be removed from these plants the first season as soon as they 
appear; this would cost one dollar for the acre. The ground between 
the rows would need cultivating five times during the growing season, 
and this would cost ten dollars. The plants would need to be hoed five 
times, which would cost fifteen dollars. I would use six large team 
loads of horse manure to cover the plants with for winter protection, 
which would cost twelve dollars. The labor of spreading it on the 
plants would cost two dollars and twenty-five cents. In the Spring as 
soon as vegetation is well started the coarse part of this covering of 
manure (and that only) should be raked off the rows of plants and left 
on the ground between the rows; this would cost one dollar and fifty 
cents. This manure should be at once incorporated with the soil with the 
use of a small half mould board plow; the labor for this would cost two 
dollars. I would follow this plowing a week or ten days later with the 
cultivator, and would use the cultivator once more after the berries are 
beginning to form, these two trips of the cultivator would cost four dol- 
lars. Weeds will spring up in the rows before fruiting time in the 
Spring; it is however, a small labor to get rid of these and the cost 
would not be more than one dollar and fifty cents. Just after the last 
tillage with the cultivator I would mulch the ground between the rows 
with newly cut grass; this grass and the applying of it would cost eight 
dollars. As you will see the entire cost for one acre of strawberries the 
first year would be one hundred and thirteen dollars and twenty-five 
cents. For the second and third crop this cost would be reduced fully 
one half. After the fourth year's fruiting the plants should be plowed 
under when the ground will be in a high state of fertility and suitable 
for any crop of fruit, vegetables or grain. These plants would, with 
proper care, bear four crops of fruit, and would not be at their best until 
the second year's fruiting. I would have my matted rows for fruiting 
twenty to twenty-two inches in width and the plants six inches apart in 
every direction. This would give me ample room for Spring tillage, 
which I have learned from many years of practical experience on different- 
soils is most essential and necessary for best results. 



RASPBERRIES. 



Any land that will grow a crop of grain or vegetables will do for 
Raspberries. There are four families of these, namely: "The Reds," 
"The Blacks," "The Pinks," and "The Yellows," all requiring the same 
general treatment. The yellow varieties are used almost exclusively for 
family use and have little if any value for commercial purposes. The 
Red Raspberries and the Black Raspberries, commonly called Black 



60 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



Caps, are extensively cultivated for market where there is usually a good 
demand for the fruit at remunerative prices. . The Pink varieties are 
grown largely and almost entirely for canning purposes Doth by the 



home people and those with large factories. 




Moudoj T 



All are' good in their natural 
state for table use, and 
when a dozen plants 
of each are set in the gar- 
den we can enjoy this de- 
licious fruit for four to 
five weeks. We should ar- 
range our selection of 
varieties to prolong the 
season for fruit as much 
as possible, not neglect- 
ing that important consid- 
eration of best quality 
when the aim and pur- 
pose is to supply our own 
table. Prepare the ground 
and manure it the same 
as you would for straw- 
berries; then make fur- 
rows six feet apart and 
set your plants in these 
two feet apart, cnus form- 
ing a continuous row of 
fruiting, which gives one- 
third more fruit than 
could be had from the 
quite generally abandon- 
ed old hill system. Cut 
back tne plants to within 
six inches from the 
ground. Set posts twenty 
feet apart and run one 
wire Sy 2 feet from the 
ground, and train your 
fruiting cane to the wire. 
This is the cheapest and 
best method and is being 
adopted now quite gener- 
ally. The canes should 
be pruned back to within 
branches should be pruned 



five feet from the ground and the lateral 
back to fifteen inches. 

The Bush System of growing Raspberries of all kinds is to plant 
in furrows three feet apart. The plants should be trained in bush 
form; this is done by Summer pruning or pinching back of the leader 
and lateral branches. The leader or main branch should not be over 
three and one-half feet from the ground; the lateral branches should be 
started near the surface of the soil and should not be more than eighteen 
inches in length. It requires considerable pinching back during the 
growing season to make a plant of this formation, but it is the only 
pruning needed and the bush goes into Winter weather in good robust 
condition. There is no necessity to use posts and wire or anything else 
to trail to, when this method of growing is adopted, as the plants are 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 61 

strong, bushy and vigorous and well able to hold up their fruit from the 
soil. In the large Raspberry fruiting districts this system of growing is 
used almost exclusively. The severe annual pruning back has a ten- 
dency to make the plants short lived, and plantations cultivated under 
this treatment rarely last more than five or six years at the best. With 
the continuous row system of fruiting the plants will be at their best for 
ten to twelve years. In any case, the old wood should be cut out each 
year. This can be done any time after the fruit is gathered until along 
in the following Spring. The first year that Raspberries are set we can 
crop the ground between the rows with any of the low growing vegetables 
like Potatoes, Beets and their kindred. The plants will come into fruit- 
ing the first year after being planted and under ordinary favorable con- 
ditions should produce quite a full crop of fruit; they will then need the 
use of all the land. Fertilizers should be used while planting and after- 
wards of the same kinds and in the same quantities per acre as for 
Strawberries. A light application of well rotted manure on the surface 
of the ground around the plants during the Winter months is very bene- 
ficial. 

Winter Protection. — In some of the cold Northern climates the Rasp- 
berry occasionally winter kills. Where this is apt to occur it is the prac- 
tice to lay down the fruiting canes in November or December and cover 
one-half or more of it from the tip end with soil. This covering need not 
be heavy. This is resorted to when the fruit is grown for the family 
use; it is quite too expensive when we are growing fruit with a view to 
profit for commercial purposes, yet we find a few large growers protecting 
their Raspberries in this way; they, however, use the old hill method 
of fruiting, leaving four to six canes in each hill and tieing them to small 
stakes. These hills are planted four feet apart in the furrows, two plants 
set together in each hill; the distance between the rows should be -six 
feet, then, of course, this protection can be practiced with the continuous 
row system of fruiting, however, not with the bushy plant method, as it 
would be impossible to lay these stocky plants down for this purpose. 
Be it remembered, however, that it is only in rare instances where it is 
necessary to go to the expense and trouble of this Winter covering of the 
canes with soil. We have a good list of old reliable hady standard 
varieties of American origin that will rarely be winter killed. These 
will be carefully selected and named hereafter. 

Anthracnoce. — This is a fungus disease that occasionally attacks 
the canes of the Raspberry close to the ground. The canes become 
brown and rusty and should be removed at once and burned, otherwise it 
will infest the entire plantation. When it first attacks the plant you can 
notice the results from it on the foliage which becomes sickly looking. 

Cane Blight. — This is also a fungus disease and attacks the canes 
in all parts, the wood turning black and shriveling away. The part of the 
canes thus affected should be cut away and at once burned. 

If at any time your plants show signs of leaf rust, spray at once with 
the Bordeaux Mixture, without the Paris Green. You should not spray 
while the plants are in fruiting. 

Spraying. — This should be attended to in the early Spring before 
vegetation starts, using the Bordeaux Mixture without the Paris Green. 
When this spraying is thoroughly done at this season there is little danger 
from any of the fungus troubles heretofore named. 

Varieties. — The selection of varieties hereafter named is on the whole 
the result of years of practical experience and experiments by the author. 



62 



DWYER'S GUIDE, 



We have endeavored to give the very best list graded from a host of sorts, 
many of which have been quite generally discarded and others that are 
still on the list but of comparatively little value. 

RASPBERRIES— Red Varieties. 

Cuthbert. — The best late hardy Red Raspberry, a variety that adapts 
itself to all conditions of soil and climates, succeeding admirably North, 
South, East and West. The canes make a strong, vigorous growth and 
are exceedingly productive of fine large, late, good flavored fruit, which 
holds its size to the end of the season. The berries are dark crimson in 
color and quite firm. One of the few reliable standard varieties we have 
to-day. Valuable for home use and for market. 

King. — Round, medium size; light crimson color; moderately firm and 
of excellent quality. One of the earliest Red Raspberries; canes strong 
growers and very prolifiic; valuable for the home table. 

Marlboro. — The canes of Marl- 
boro are strong, hardy and productive, 
the fruit is as large as the Cuthbert, 
crimson in color, holds out large to 
the last picking and arrives in the 
market in good condition; perhaps as 
good as any berry we have in cultiva- 
tion; grown extensively for commer- 
cial purposes and for home use; 
ripens early in the season. 

Miller Red Raspberry — Berry is 
round in shape, color bright red; core 
very small; does not crumble, making 
it the firmest and best shipping berry 
in existence, has a rich, fruity flavor. 
The time of ripening is the very ear- 
liest; good for all purposes. 

The Loudon Raspberry. — The 
fruit is very large, exceptionally firm, 
of fine, rich, attractive color, and of 
the best flavor. The canes are fully 
as large and strong as the Cuthbert. Thus far the Loudon has proved 
entirely hardy here with us. It ripens three or four days after the Marl- 
boro, and continues in fruiting a long time. The fruit is very firm and 
makes a good shipping berry; a splendid variety that should be in every 
selection. t 

Thompson's Early. — One of the best early varieties. Plant a good 
grower and hardy. Commences to ripen before strawberries are gone. 
A very profitable early variety to grow for market. 

RASPBERRIES— BLACK VARIETIES. 




MARLBORO 



Cumberland. — In hardiness and productiveness it is unexcelled by 
any other variety. In size the fruit is simply enormous, far surpassing 
any other sort. The berries run seven-eighths and fifteen-sixteenths of 
an inch in diameter and are of handsome appearance. 

The bush is exceedingly healthy and vigorous, throwing out stout, 
stocky canes, well adapted for supporting their immense load of large, 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



63 



beautiful fruit. We advise the planting of at least a dozen plants of this 
promising new variety. A profitable berry for market and unexcelled for 
home use; one of our favorite berries; ripens early. 

Gregg.— Requires a good, strong soil to produce best results, and re- 
sponds liberally to generous treatment. The canes are large and pro- 
ductive of fruit of the very largest size, not as fine in quality as some of 
the other sorts, but a good market fruit; Gregg ripens late in the season. 

Kansas. — A most desir- 
able Black Cap in every 
respect. The canes are 
magnificent, strong, vigor- 
ous growers, of ironclad 
hardiness, they are im- 
mensely productive of jet 
black fruit of large size 
and are very attractive, 
hence a first class market 
berry, as well as one of 
the best for the family 
use. The Kansas ripens 
in mid-season, and the 
fruit is very firm, but its 
superior flavor is the 
principal reason for its 
growing popularity. A 
fine berry in every way; 
quality unexcelled. 

Mills. — The growth very 
vigorous, fruit medium to 
large, firm, fine flavored, 
juicy, sweet, very good to 

best in quality. Productive and remains a long time in fruit; a good berry 
for all purposes. 

Munger. — The fruit is black and resembles Gregg very much. It is 
a better flavored berry than Gregg, tougher in texture, and therefore a 
better shipper. In size it excels Gregg by almost 25 per cent., being ex- 
tra fine for canning and evaporating. The canes, too, resemble Gregg, 
are free from disease, upright in growth; a good market fruit and also 
valuable for home use. 

Ohio. — Ripens mid-season, between Souhegan and Gregg. The fruit 
is nearly as large as the Gregg. Very uniform in size and holds out large 
to the last picking. The color is nearly as black as the Souhegan. It 
is of splendid quality, firm, and a very excellent shipper; valuable for 
market. 

Palmer. — The first to ripen; fruit good size and quality; canes won- 
derfully productive, vigorous and hardy; ripens its crops in short time; 
one of the best varieties of Black Caps; desirable for market on account 
of its fine appearance and high quality; one of the best for the home 
planting. 

Soughegan. — Enormously prolific of jet black berries, and the best 
in quality of any Black Cap; the very earliest to ripen, coming with the 
later varieties of strawberries; perhaps the best early variety we have 
for all purposes. 




KANSAS. 



64 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



RASPBERRIES— PINK VARIETIES. 

Cardinal. — Berries are of great size, purplish-crimson in color, exceed- 
ingly firm, rich and sprightly, with full raspberry flavor. Of special value 
for canning. It propogates from tips like the Black Caps; the canes are ex- 
tremely large and vigorous growers and immensely productive; ripens in 
mid-season; good for home use for canning and profitable for market 
where there is a demand for it. 

Columbian. — The Columbian is a vigorous grower, with large fruiting 
canes, fully as large as the Shaffer, which is the most rampant grower and 
prolific yielder we have yet seen and the fruit is the largest grown. In 
quality it is an improvement on the Shaffer, being sweeter when ripe and 
of higher flavor. We have planted it on several soils and in each instance 




CUMBERLAND. 

it is a wonder of productiveness. Twenty-five plants of this variety will 
furnish fruit enough for a large family through the season, besides you 
will have a great plenty for canning purposes; grown largely for canning 
and drying; ripens late in the season. 

Shaffer's Colossal. — The canes are strong, hardy and productive of 
large, handsome fruit, the last of the berries even larger than the first. It 
is a valuable addition to the cap family and especially valuable for pre- 
serving; ripens late. 

RASPBERRIES— YELLOW VARIETIES. 

Caroline.— A seedling from the old Brinkle's Orange which was of 
foreign parentage and too tender for our climate. The canes of Caroline 
are moderately good growers, exceedingly productive, the fruit fair in 
size, rather soft and crumbly, color pale salmon, sub-acid and fair in 
quality; valuable only for home use. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



65 



Golden Queen Raspberry. — 

Yellow variety — The Queen is 
larger than Brinckle's Orange, 
firmer, of a much better color; 
the canes are larger, more pro- 
ductive, and the best of all, they 
are hardy; the lack of hardiness 
having made Brinckle's Orange 
an unpopular fruit. No first- 
class home fruit garden is 
complete without a good bed of 
it. It is, without doubt, one ox 
the best flavored fruits we have 
ever tasted, and this voices the 
opinion of many who have test- 
ed the berry on our grounds. 
We have fruited it for many 
years here on our grounds and 
on different soils; the canes 
have never been harmed in the 
least during the winter months 
and they have always borne an 
immense quantity of fruit. 
This variety is now at the head 
of the raspberry list for table 
use and is being planted more 
largely each year. For some rea- 
son our best markets discrimi- 
nate against the yellow rasp- 
berry, hence we do not recom- 
mend it for that purpose. 




golden QUEEN. 



DEWBERRY. 



Plant the same as the Blackberry. 

Lucretia. — Ripens a few days in advance of the blackberry, and is 
productive of large, fine flavored, luscious fruit without any coreT A very 
desirable berry for the home use for all purposes, especially valuable for 
the table, where it will be hightly appreciated for its large size, beautiful 
color and superb flavor. It is also profitable as a market berry and is 
grown extensively for this purpose by many large fruit growers, becom- 
ing more popular each year. A very important consideration in the grow- 
ing of the Dewberry, and very seldom practiced, is training the vines tor 
wires, very similar to the manner in which grapes are grown. It is sur- 
prising how this fruit is improved in quality and quantity by this mode 
of growing. You are enabled to ripen the fruit much earlier, the sun be- 
ing allowed to reach all sides of the fruit— as it cannot do if they are al- 
lowed to grow in the old style of trailing on the ground. Another ad- 
vantage is the fruit can be kept perfectly clean, an important matter and* 
very essential in the sale of fruit. 

Austin's Improved.— A variety from Texas, where for several years 



66 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



it has far surpassed all other sorts in size and productiveness. Berries 
glossy black, extra large, superior quality, sweet and melting to the cen- 
ter. N. Y. Exp. Station and others give excellent reports of their trials 
of it in the north. 



DWARF JUNEBERRY. 



Plant in rows four feet apart and cultivate and prune the same as for 

the Currant. 

A very desirable fruit that we consider a valuable acquisition to the 
garden fruits; the bushes resemble the Currant in habit of growth. The 
fruit is twice the size of the Huckleberry, matures in June, is round, red- 
dish purple at first, changing to bluish black when fully ripe. In flavor 
it is similar to the swamp huckleberry, which it resembles in appearance 
also. It is rich, sub-acid, delicious, and is excellent for cooking. A 
very profuse bearer. It is hardy, succeeding well in cold climates, also 
being adapted to warm countries. 



JAPANESE WINEBERRY. 



Plant and cultivate the same as Raspberries. 

We have fruit- 
ed it for a 
number of 
years. It is a 
very interesting- 
fruit, belonging 
to the Rasp- 
berry fa m i 1 y, 
and is a splendid 
grower; hardy 
and very pro- 
lific The canes 
are covered 
with pu r p 1 i sh 
red hair. The 
fruit is borne 
in clusters and 
each berry is at 
first tightly en- 
veloped by a 
large calyx, 
forming a sort 
of burr, which 
is also covered 

with purplish red hair so thickly as to present the appearance of moss 
rose buds. When the fruit matures, this bud pops open and displays the 




DWYEK'S GUIDE. 67 

fruit. In color it is a bright red, and the plant is beautiful and really an 
ornamental bush, that could be grown in the lawn, where it would pro- 
duce delightful fine flavored fruit, besides giving a pleasing effect in 
beautifying the home grounds. The bushes are very productive, the fruit 
ripening after the late red Raspberries. Commands a higher price in the 
market than most Red Raspberries; in fact we have made several tests 
of it in several markets with results that surpassed our expectations. 
This is one of the finest breakfast fruits we have ever eaten, just acid 
enough to be sprightly and of high quality; valuable for all purposes. 



BLACKBERRIES. 



The writer has cultivated this fruit in a large way for several years, 
harvesting many thousand quarts during the fruiting season. They have 
always sold to good advantage, the price ranging from ten to fifteen cents 
per quart for the different seasons' crop, thus making it, as all fruit grow- 
ers know, one of the most profitable fruit crops to grow. The Blackberry 
is one of our most reliable paying crops, and should be cultivated by all 
who grow fruit for a living, while no well-provided amateur fruit garden 
should be without this luscious, healthy berry. 

Any good ordinary farm land that will produce a crop of grain or 
vegetables is admirably suited to the profitable cultivation of the Black- 
berry. It succeeds well in partial shade and can be grown successfully 
between the rows of young fruit trees. Prepare the ground the same as 
you would for Raspberries or Strawberries, using the same kind of ma- 
nures and in the same quantities per acre as advised for Strawberries. 
It has been the practice quite generally with those who grow Blackberries 
in the home garden to plant them along the fence line. We do not recom- 
mend this way, as the plants are almost sure to be neglected and over- 
grown with wood; the bed soon becomes unmanageable and worthless. 
The better plan is to set your plants in a row in the garden where they 
will oblige you to keep them under control by pruning and removing of 
old and superfluous wood, and it must be remembered that this is not a 
very difficult or expensive work when attended to at the proper time. 
Blackberries can be grown successfully under the three systems previous 
ly mentioned for Raspberries, except that as they are more vigorous 
growers they snould be planted a greater distance apart. They could 
not be laid down and covered with soil for Winter protection like 
the Raspberries sometimes are, the canes being too strong and stiff 
for this purpose; however, it is quite unnecessary to resort to this means 
with Blackberries as they are practically a hardy plant in all parts of the 
country. Rarely indeed do we hear of the plants being Winter harmed; 
when they are injured, it is on account of exceptionally unfavorable 
Winter weather, or perhaps a weakened condition of plants caused by 
injudicious late cultivation in the Autumn months, which produces an ex- 
cessive wood growth that is insufficiently matured before cold weather ar- 
rives and destroys it as well as the entire plant for fruiting the coming 
season, it being necessarily of low vitality. Low growing vegetables can 
be planted to good advantage between the rows the first season they are 
cultivated; after that the Blackberries will need all the room and should 
produce a good crop of fruit the first year after being planted. After the 



68 DWYERS GUIDE. 

plants have first been set out they should be cut back to within six inches 
of the surface of the ground. 

The Continuous Row Syste,m. — We consider this the best and most 
profitable way to fruit the Blackberry. Set the plants eight feet apart 
between the rows, and two feet apart in the rows. Set posts in the row 
twenty feet apart, and run two wires on these posts. Run one wire three 
feet from the ground and the other wire five feet from the ground, and 
trail and tie your fruiting canes to these wires. It is best to use the 
two wires, as the plants when in fruit will be of considerable weight. 
The canes can be fully six feet in height and the lateral branches eigh- 
teen inches in length. With the bush system the plants should be eight 
feet apart between the rows and three feet apart in the row, pruned back 
to within four feet from the ground and the lateral branches fifteen to 
eighteen inches in length. 

The Hill System is to plant eight feet apart between the rows and 
four feet apart in the row, setting two plants in each hill; let them form 
into hills of five to six fruiting canes, drive down a good strong stake to 
each hill and tie all to them. Your plants can be five to six feet in height, 
but the lateral branches should be pruned back to ten inches in length. 

The Blackberry is quite susceptible to the Anthracnoce. This should 
be treated in the same way as explained for the Raspberry. If the Rose 
scale appears on your Blackberries use the kerosene and water formula 
mentioned on page 12; using six parts of water to one part of kerosene. 
Just as soon as your canes; show the least sign of rust cut it out at once 
and burn it, otherwise it will in time spread over the entire planta- 
tion. 

Varieties. — There are a few very good sorts that are valuable in 
Southern New Jersey and in other Southern States that are not hardy 
enough for the Northern climates; these will be especially mentioned in 
the descriptions that go with the variety. 

Agawam. — Medium size, jet black, sweet and tender, hardy and pro- 
ductive. Very desirable for family use; one of the best flavored Black- 
berries we have ever eaten; ripens early. 

Ancient Britton. — One of the best varieties. Very vigorous, healthy 
and hardy, producing large fruit stems, loaded with good-sized berries of 
fine quality that carry well; a valuable market variety and one grown 
quite extensively for that purpose; ripens late in the season. 

Early Harvest. — A strong, healthy grower, very early and productive; 
good quality. A desirable home berry and profitable for market in the 
Southern States; not hardy enough for the Northern Winters. 

Eldorado. — In flavor it is one of the most delicious berries we have 
eaten. It has never winter killed with us or failed to produce a full crop of 
the finest fruit, while it is of superior flavor and very large. The fruit has 
no hard core, but when placed in the mouth melts away, being most 
pleasing to the taste and very sweet. The fruit is jet black, in large 
clusters, ripening well together. Its keeping quality is unsurpassed; 
exceptionally hardy canes; good for all purposes; ripens second early. 

Erie. — It is the best haTdy variety yet introduced, very productive, 
foliage clean and healthy, free from rust; fruit large, about the size of 
Lawton; ripens early; a valuable and profitable standard variety and 
largely grown for commercial purposes. This is one if not the leading 
berry, and is more largely fruited than any other variety we know of; 
ripens quite late in the season and continues in bearing a long time. 



DWYEK'S GUIDE, 



69 



Iceberg. — The fruit is not only white but so transparent that the 
seeds, which are usually small, can be seen in the ripe berries. This is 
called the White Blackberry, and is more or less of a plaything in the 
garden; quality not up to the standard; ripens in mid-season; canes 
hardy. 

Kittatinny. — A popular home variety of great value; quite suscepti- 
ble to rust; fruit, large, long, and ripe as soon as black. 

Lawton. — An old favorite, esteemed for its productiveness and large 
size. Like Kittatinny, it is of strong, erect growth, but much more free 
from rust. The berries are large and delicious when fully ripe. It suc- 
ceeds over a wide range of country, and is one of the best standard sorts, 
but has now been superseded by Erie, which is hardier. Mid-season to 
late. 

Lovett's Best Blackberry. — It has now been fruited in almost every 
State in the Union, and its hardiness and other valuable properties con- 
clusively proved by practical field tests. We have found this to be a good 
grower. The fruit is very large, handsome and of excellent flavor; canes 
hardy; valuable for all purposes; ripens in mid-season. 

Mersereau. — This va- 
riety originated in Wes- 
tern New York, where 
the mercury falls below 
zero each winter. The 
plants have never yet 
been injured in the least 
during the winter months. 
It remains in bearing as 
late as September 1 to 10, 
the fruit selling for two or 
three cents higher per 
quart than other varieties. 
Its extreme hardiness, 
large size, great produc- 
tiveness and delicious 
quality makes it a valu- 
able acquisition; valuable 
for market and home use; 
canes hardy; ripens in 
mid-season. 

Minnewaski. — A valu- 
able variety for home 
use and grown largely 
and profitably for market 
by many fruit growers. 
Canes hardy, very produc- 
tive, strong-growing, free 
from disease; fruit large, 
early, of good quality; a mersereau. 

good reliable hardy variety; ripens second early. 

Ohmer. — Five points which recommend this berry: hardy, late, large, 
productive and of the finest flavor. As large as the largest, as hardy 
as any good berry; very productive, strong grower, finest quality and 
late; grown largely for market. 

Rathbun. — A new Blackberry that proved to be entirely hardy, hav- 
ing withstood a temperature of fifteen degrees 1 below zero uninjured. 




70 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



The berries are large, with large pips and small seeds. They have no 
hard core, in fact no core is perceived in eating them; all is soft, sweet, 
luscious, with a high flavor; canes very hardy; good for commercial pur- 
poses; ripens rather late in the season. 

Stone's Hardy. — Very good for a cold climate. Perfectly hardy, 
strong grower; requires thorough pruning, as it sets more fruit than it can 
mature under ordinary cultivation. A good family berry; ripens in mid- 
season. 

Taylor's Prolific. — Where hardiness is of importance this is an ex- 
cellent variety. Canes of strong growth and very prolific; berries larger 
than Snyder, sweet and rich; ripens late, after main crop of other kinds 
are gone. One of our best market varieties and extensively grown. 

Wilson, Jr. — An early variety of large size and handsome appearance, 
productive, of splendid color, and an excellent shipper, becoming more 
popular each year. One of the finest market berries we have, but a lit- 
tle tender for our Northern latitude, where it occasionally winter kills; 
exceptionally valuable for all purposes where it can be grown. 




CURRANTS, 



There is perhaps no other specie 
of the small fruit family, with the 
possible exception of the Strawberry, 
that is so generally adaptable to our 
varied conditions of soil and climates 
as the Currant and probably none 
other of these fruits are so easily, suc- 
cessfully and profitably cultivated 
over such a wide range of country. 
For several years past there has been 
a surprisingly and constantly increas- 
ed demand for this valuable fruit. 
At the present time it is one of the 
most popular of all the small fruits. 
Its great and growing popularity is 
probably owing to the fact that the 
fruit is desirable and available for 
so many separate purposes. It must 
be admitted that the demand for this 
fruit has been pretty generally suppli- 
ed; nevertheless, we find good fruit 
bring good paying prices to the grow- 
er one year with another and the 
large growers of currants seem to be 
enlarging their plantations, which of 
itself, is good proof that this is one 
of our most profitable fruit crops, 
and the writer can, from years of ex- 
perience, testify to the correctness of 
this observation. We have in the 
past years grown and marketed many 
crops of this fruit that have brought 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 71 

us remunerative prices, so that we are prepared to say that for com- 
mercial purposes the Currant can be made a decided success. Then 
for the home garden there is scarcely any fruit more useful and 
desirable in so many different ways; in fact, no private garden is com- 
plete without a good selection of the red, white and black varieties that 
will prolong the season for fruit as far as possible. Fortunately, this can 
be aone with a very few of the best varieties. 

Preparation of the Soil. — Any land that will answer for the ordinary 
farm crop will do for the Currant. The ground should be prepared the 
same as for Strawberries, as explained on page 49. Firm the soil 
thoroughly about the roots with the use of the feet; the plants should be 
pruned back one-half at the time of planting — the after pruning is very 
simple and easily done, removing one-half the new wood each year and 
also any old or dead wood. Neglect of annual pruning will soon bring the 
bush into a large and unfruitful plant, besides the fruit will depreciate both 
in size, color and quality, when grown under this neglected condition. 

The Two Systems. — There are two separate ways of cultivating the 
Currant. The Row System, is to plant four feet apart in the row and 
five feet apart between the rows, with this method you can only cultivate 
your plants one way. 

The Hill System, is to plant five feet apart each way, grow the 
plants in the hills and cultivate both ways. This plan minimizes 
the hand labor to a considerable extent, as quite all of the til- 
lage can be done with the use of the plow and cultivator, in fact, a 
crop of Currants grown in this way can be matured quite as cheaply as 
a crop of corn or potatoes. When one is planting in a large way, and 
when it is practicable, this is decidedly the best and most economical 
method of growing. This system requires 1,750 plants for a solid acre of 
Currants. 

When to Plant. — Currants should be planted as early as possible; 
we must remember that this is one of the very first fruits to start vege- 
tation in the Spring, consequently, they should be transplanted early, 
while in dormant condition. March and April are the months to plant in 
the Spring, the earlier the better. Currants are one of the first fruits to 
lose their foliage. In the Autumn, therefore, they can be planted with ad- 
vantage any time after September first until December first, and between 
these dates is perhaps the best time to plant the Currant. When planted 
at this season it is beneficial to place a large forkful or two of manure 
about each plant as a little protection during the Winter months and as 
a fertilizer. 

The Currant Worm. — This is perhaps the worst enemy we have to 
contend with in the cultivation of this fruit. It is a long green worm 
that attacks the foliage early in the Summer, usually about June first or 
just after we have had two or three days of very warm weather. If left 
unmolested they will soon defoliate the bushes, when the fruit will be- 
come scalded and quite worthless from the direct hot rays of the sun 
Fortunately, we can cope with this enemy easily and cheaply. As soon 
as they appear, at once spray with the Bordeaux Mixture and Paris Green 
added as formulated on page 11, this single spraying if thoroughly done 
will generally be sufficient and all that is needed; however, if another 
brood appers spray a second time as before. The Bordeaux spray will al- 
so eradicate any possible funguous disease that your plants may be 
troubled with. This spray is cheap, efficacious, easily applied and will 
kill the worms in a few hours. 

Cane Blight. — This attacks the Currants at different growing sea- 



72 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

sons of the year. We have observed that old plantations are most sus- 
ceptible to it. The moment it is noticed on the plant the part thus affect- 
ed should be cut out and burned at once and if you think the entire bush 
is contaminated, better remove it bodily rather than run the risk of 
spreading it over the entire plantation. 

Life of the Currant. — When grown under good, fair, average tillage, 
the Currant will bear profitable crops from eight to twelve years without 
resetting. There is no other single plant so adaptable and that can be 
used so successfully and advantageously. When grown with the tree 
fruits, the Currant does well in partial shade and, strange as it may 
seem, it is the fact nevertheless, that when grown under these conditions 
the size and productiveness of the fruit is increased. For this reason, 
as well as for the other favorable characteristics of the plant, it is the 
most desirable of all the small fruit's to use in connection with the tree 
fruits. In planting a young orchard of apples, pears, peaches or other tree 
fruits you can plant Currants both between the trees in the row and al- 
so between the rows of trees. The Currants can be fruited in this way 
for six to eight years or until the trees come into full bearing, without, in 
any way interfering with or retarding the growth of the trees; both can 
be tilled at the same time, and practically at the same expense; at least, 
the extra expense of labor for both will be very much minimized. 

Fertilizers. — We have found stable manure the best fertilizer for the 
Currant; the best way to apply it is in the Fall. Use two or three good 
forkfuls around each bush and let it remain on the surface of the ground 
during the Winter months. In this way we accomplish the double pur- 
pose of feeding the plant and Winter protection. Where you cannot get 
the stable manure you can use two tons of unleached wood ashes to the 
acre, or one ton of some good commercial fruit and vine fertilizer to the 
acre; or the following, well mixed together, is very desirable: 600 lbs. 
of pure ground bone, 300 lbs. of muriate of potash, 150 lbs. of nitrate of 
soda. Any of the above fertilizers should be broadcast in the Spring, 
cultivating it in the soil. 

Varieties of Currants. — The list of varieties of Currants has been 
kept well under control. Unlike many of our other fruits, we have not a 
superfluous and confusing list to choose from. Nevertheless, we will 
trim the present list down as far as consistent and name only those va- 
rieties that we can recommend from practical experience. You can rely 
on those that follow to give the best results obtainable from this fruit. 

RED VARIETIES OF CURRANTS. 

Cherry. — This is the old established standard variety of Red Currant. 
Very prolific, of fine large bunches of most beautiful crimson berries. A 
splendid variety for home use, and excellent as a market fruit. 

Fay's Prolific. — This has fully sustained the broad claims which were 
made for it by the disseminator upon its introduction; and it is decidedly 
the best Red Currant we have. It has been widely planted, and has 
given general satisfaction. The bush is a strong grower, wonderfully pro- 
lific, and comes into bearing early. Fruit large, bright red, and of good 
flavor, and less acid than Cherry. Those who want a prolific Red Cur- 
rant should plant this variety. Grown extensively for market. 

Perfection. — A cross from White Grape and Fay's Prolific; the color 
is a beautiful bright red. Size as large or larger than the Fay, the clust- 
ers averaging longer. The size of berry is well maintained to the end of 
the bunch. The Perfection has a long stem from point of attachment on 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



73 



the bush to the first berry, making it easy to pick without crushing any 
of the berries. The Perfection is a great bearer, resembling its parent 
the White Grape in this respect. The plants should be kept well cultivat- 
ed and fertilized, as should all heavy bearers. Quality; rich, mild, sub- 
acid, plenty of pulp with few seeds. Less acid and of better quality than 
any other large currant in cultivation. Valuable for market purposes. 

Red Cress. — This is undoubtedly a valuable addition to our good va- 
rieties of Currants and is well spoken of by all who have seen the fruit. 
Jacob Moore, the originator, says: "Red Cross clusters are long and have 
well necked berries, double the size of Victoria, and far superior in 
quality to Cherry or Victoria. Nothing will compare in quality with Red 
Cross but White Dutch, which is too small. Red Cross was first fruited 
in 1889. I have seen the fruit growing in such masses as to hide the upper 
branches from view. It is later than Cherry; the plant makes twice the 
growth of Cherry, and yields two or three times as much fruit. I recom- 
mend it with confidence. I consider Red Cross one of the best of the new 
Currants." Good for home and commercial use. 

Victoria. — This is the latest variety 
we have in Currants, ripening ten to 
twelve days later than the Cherry- 
Especially desirable for home use, 
and also valuable as a market berry, 
its lateness extending the season for fruit. 

Wilder. — This grand variety is 
grown very extensively for market. 
One of the strongest growers and 
most productive. Bunch and berries 
very large, bright, attractive red 
color, even when dead ripe; hangs on 
bushes in fine condition for handling 
as late as any known variety. Com- 
pared with the celebrated Fays, is 
equal in size, with longer bunch, bet- 
ter in quantity, with much less acidity; 
ripens at same time, continues on 
bush much longer, fully as prolific, in 
some trials largely outyielding it, al- 
so valuable for table use. 

WHITE VARIETIES OF CURRANTS. 

White Dutch. — Bush an upright 
grower, vigorous and very productive. 
Clusters two to three inches long: 
berries average medium size, are 
translucent and a little darker than 
White Grape; quality excellent. 
Ripens early. 

White Grape. — We have fruited this 
largely and the fruit brings us the 
highest prices in the market. Very 
large yellowish white; sweet or very 
mild acid; excellent quality and valu- 
able for the table; the finest of the 
white sorts. Very productive and a 
most desirable Currant. The best 
table Currant of all. 




74 DWYEB'S GUIDE. 

White Imperial. — Ripens somewhat later than the White Grape. 
Bush vigorous' and very productive. Clusters large; berries very large, 
sweet and most delicious. Said to be the best of the White Currants, 
valuable for the home table. 

BLACK VARIETIES OF CURRANTS. 

Black Champion. — Very productive, large bunch and berry; excellent 
quality, strong grower. The leading, well-tested black sort. Grown large- 
ly by some fruit growers for market, where it brings good prices. 

Black Victoria. — A strong, vigorous grower, making a neat bush of 
imfailing productiveness; fruit of fine flavor and enormous size, the 
largest black in cultivation. 

Lee's Prolific. — The best European Black Currant yet introduced, 
and one that makes a great advance in the fruit of its class. It is earlier 
than Black Naple, and of superior quality; larger, longer clusters, and 
even more productive than that prolific kind. Extensively cultivated for 
commercial purposes. 



GOOSEBERRIES. 



This is quite a desirable and valuable fruit and used for many pur- 
poses by the housewife, and a few bushes should be in every well pro- 
vided home garden. We know some few fruit growers who grow this fruit 
profitably one year with another and where there is a good market it 
will be a good fruit to grow with the Currant, as it needs the same gen- 
eral culture and treatment. The writer's experience, however, has not 
been as satisfactory as he would wish when this fruit has been cultivated 
for market purposes. Occassionally the market has been favorable for 
this fruit and we have received eight to ten cents per quart for it right 
through the season; these are, of course, good paying prices. We have 
learned from experience, however, that these prices are quite exception- 
al and would be followed by a year or two or more when the fruit would 
sell for two and three cents per quart, while we have seen twenty to 
thirty crates of this fruit with a New York commission house kept for sev- 
eral days and then destroyed, as there was no demand for them. Then the 
market has been such that our commission men have written us not to 
ship any of this fruit and it quite often has been left on the bushes un- 
picked. We advise beginners to plant cautiously of this fruit until they 
are first sure of their market. 

Gooseberries require the same treatment as heretofore recommend- 
ed for the Currant, in planting, cultivation, pruning and spraying. Plant 
in good rich soil and give a liberal dressing of manure every season. 
Like the Currant, they do best in partial shade. It is very beneficial to 
mulch about the plants, using any handy material you have on hand for 
this purpose, such as short straw. To prevent mildew, spray bushes soon 
as leaves appear and during the Summer with potassium sulphide (Liver 
of Sulphur) one ounce to four gallons of water. The green worm known 
as the Currant worm also attacks the Gooseberry and should be treated 
with the Bordeaux Mixture as recommended for the Currant. 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



75 




DOWNING. 



AMERICAN VARIETIES OF GOOSEBERRIES. 

Downing. — Very popular, large, pale green, 
good quality; bush vigorous, hardy and prolific. 
One of the best varieties ever introduced. Valu- 
able for market and the home table. 

Houghton. — A medium sized American va- 
riety; fruit smooth, red, tender and very good; 
bears abundant and regular crops. Free from 
mildew and sure to bear a crop even under neg- 
lect. Good only for home use as it is too small 
for market. 

Josselyn. — (Red Jacket.) The plants are 
strong, clean growers. An American seedling of 
large size; smooth, prolific and hardy, of best 
quality. Has been well tested over a wide extent 
of territory by the side of all the leading varieties, and so far the freest 
from mildew, both in leaf and fruit, of them all. A wonderful cropper, 
with bright, clean, healthy foliage. Valuable for commercial purposes 
and the home table. 

Pearl. — An exceedingly prolific variety that has been well tested and 
ranks No. 1 in healthfulness, vigor of growth, freedom from mildew and 
productiveness. Same color as Downing; seems to possess all the good 
points of that variety with a little larger fruit and rather more prolific. 
A splendid market variety. 

Smith's. — Large, pale greenish yellow, skin thin of excellent quality, 
being unsurpassed by any other variety for table use or cooking; bush 
moderately vigorous and exceedingly productive. Especially valuable for 
home use. 

ENGLISH VARIETIES OF GOOSEBERRIES. 

This family of Gooseberries are much more susceptible to mildew 
than the American sorts, they are, however, fine, large fruit of high quali- 
ty and command the highest market prices. 

Industry. — The best English Gooseberry 
yet introduced. Of vigorous, upright growth, 
greatest cropper and more free from mil- 
dew than any of the English varieties; ber- 
ries of the largest size, one and one-half 
inches in diameter, and one of the most ex- 
cellent flavor, both pleasant and rich; color, 
when fully ripe, dark red. One of the lead- 
ing market sorts and probably grown more 
extensively than any other single variety; 
also valuable for home use. A plant 
of the Industry in full bearing is a most 
wonderful sight and not soon forgotten. 

Keepsake. — Fruit very large, straw col- 
ored, of excellent flavor; carries well to 
market. Bloom is weir protected by early 
foliage, making it one of the surest crop- 
pers. One of the best English sorts for 
our climates. Valuable for all purposes. 




INDUSTRY. 



76 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

Lancashire Lad. — One of the largest and best of the English varieties. 
Fruit smooth, bright red, extra size; fine quality. One of the best dessert 
berries. Bush strong grower and productive. Its fine flavor makes it 
especially desirable for the private garden. 

Chautauqua. — A valuable berry, probably of foreign origin, but show- 
ing less tendency to mildew than any of its class. A vigorous, upright grow- 
er, and wonderfully prolific. Berries large, pale yellow, smooth, very 
sweet, and of exquisite flavor. Desirable for market and also the home 
table. 

Columbus. — Bush a strong, robust grower; foliage large and glossy. 
Fruit large, oval; skin greenish yellow, smooth; of the highest quality; 
an excellent variety for home use. 



HARDY GRAPES. 



Within a radius of twenty miles of the writer's home the grape is 
cultivated very extensively, perhaps more largely than in any other sec- 
tion of the country. The growers here in this fruit growing region along 
the Hudson River Valley and in the interior towns are, as a rule, progres- 
sive, up-to-date men, and if they excel in any particular branch of this 
industry it is in the perfect cultivation and production of this fruit. Here 
the grape is grown to perfection, the climatic conditions are conducive 
to the growing of the choicest and best flavored fruit, and these practical 
men take advantage of this opportunity and grow the fruit in a large way, 
and it can be safely said that one year with another it is as good a paying 
crop as they produce. Ten to thirty acre vineyards are no uncommon 
sight in these parts and the tillage so clean and thorough that during 
the growing and fruiting season it is a splendid sight and inspiration to go 
through these plantations. I can remember the time, when an old pioneer 
grape grower here at my home, sold his Concord Grapes at twenty-five 
cents per pound in the New York City market. Of course, no such prices 
as these exist at the present time, nor are they likely to again; yet good re- 
munerative prices can be obtained for a fancy high-class fruit, neatly packed 
in small packages. At the present time grapes are grown more largely for 
wine than ever before in the history of the country. It is now pretty gen- 
erally understood and conceeded that we can manufacture quite as good 
wine here in this country as we have been importing at high prices 
from the wine districts in France. We are pleased to be able to make this 
statement and to know that at last we are beginning to appreciate the 
possibilities that are at our own door and to take advantage of them in 
this available and practical way. The above remarks, are of course, 
principably intended for the grower for commercial purposes. It is 
perhaps superfluous for us to urge the cultivation of this delicious, health 
imparting fruit for the private garden. Every one knows what a grand 
fruit it is. Most all know the general adaptability of the grape to our 
varied conditions of soils and climates. The soil that will not produce 
this fruit is poor indeed and hardly fit for any other crop. It is positively 
the easiest to cultivate and at the same time the most grateful of all 
the fruits. It can be grown in so many different ways and in such a 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 77 

variety of nooks and corners that any one with any land at all can grow 
it successfully with but little trouble. 

There is scarcely a yard so small, either in country or city, that 
room for one to a dozen or more grapevines cannot be found. They do 
admirably trained up to the side of any building, or along the garden fen- 
ces, occupying but little room and furnishing an abundance of the health- 
iest of fruit. 

Make the soil mellow, and plant the vines somewhat deeper than 
they stood in the nursery. Plant about eight feet apart by the fence or 




building. For vineyard, make rows eight feet apart. For strong growing 
kinds, like Concord or Niagara, plant ten feet apart in the row, and for 
light growers, like Delaware, plant six feet apart in the row. 

Dig the holes about two feet wide and fifteen inches deep, loosening 
the earth thoroughly in the bottom placing in two or three inches of good 
surface soil, then cover the roots with three or four inches of the surface 



78 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

soil, and with the use of the feet firm the soil about the roots; this firm- 
ing of the soil is of supreme importance. 

Pruning Back. — Before the vines are taken to the field the roots- 
should be trimmed back to twelve inches in length; the tops should be 
cut back to three or four buds; two of these buds should be below the sur- 
face of the ground and one or two should be above the surface as leaders. 
It is desirable to place these roots in a pail of water when doing the 
planting in order to guard against drying out with the sun and wind- 
Set a stake near the leader, and as the new growth develops keep it 
firmly tied thereto; this is all that will be necessary for the first two 
years. Keep old wood trimmed off and grow your fruit on the new canes. 
Any manner of pruning that will admit the light and air will answer — 
there is several systems and all are good for certain purposes. 

Preparation of the Soil. — As the author noted in the beginning of his 
notes on Grapes, most any soil will answer for their production — except 
land that is excessively wet and which is not fit for any fruit crop. In 
fact the grape can be grown on side hill locations that are good for little 
if any other use. The soil should be thoroughly plowed and harrowed 
and put in first class condition as previously explained for Strawberries 
on page 49. If you are planting in a large way, you can run deep furrows 
the same as you would for other heavy rooted trees or plants. This saves 
a large amount of labor in digging the holes. 

Cultivation. — This is very simple and easily done. Keep the soil 
loose and free from weeds. With the proper, timely and judicious use 
of the improved plows and cultivators nearly all of the tillage can be done 
with the use of these tools, reducing the hand work to a minimum. For 
the first three or four years after the new vineyard has been planted, or 
until the vines become fully established and developed, you can with good 
advantage grow annual crops of low growing vegetables in connection 
with your grapes. Then be it remembered that it is the general practice 
among commercial growers to grow Strawberries between the rows of 
young vines for three or four years or moTe, and some growers utilize the 
ground indefinitely for some other fruit or vegetable crop. Currants is 
the fruit crop that is generally grown between the young vines in the 
row for the first two years alter being pianted. This practice gives us an in- 
come from our land at once, and makes the cost of labor for each crop 
comparatively small. Certainly more fertilizers are needed for this exten- 
sive cropping, and the grower wil have to determine this for himself. 
Conditions and observation will be his best and safest guide along this 
line. 

Fertilizers. — In the beginning, before we plow our ground for grapes, 
if the ground is not in a high state of fertility we should give it a liberal 
application of thoroughly well rotted stable manure. Eight to ten tons 
to the acre is none too much. With the proper and necessary use of the 
plow and harrow in preparing the ground this manure will be pretty 
thoroughly incorporated with the soil; then after the roots are well cover- 
ed with soil it is beneficial to add to each plant one large forkful of this 
well rotted manure, and then fill in the soil; level with the sur- 
face of the ground. In this way the manure will not come in direct 
contact with the roots, yet they will be in a short time stimulated and 
benefitted by it. If stable manure cannot be procured you can use raw 
bone meal, about 600 pounds per acre, with about 300 pounds muriate of 
potash, or two tons of good, unleached hardwood ashes or one ton of 
some complete fruit and vine manure. These should be applied broadcast 
before the last harrowing of the land. A double handfull can be placed 



DWYER'S GUIDE 79 

in each hole after the roots have been well covered with soil. In the 
absence of stable manure we recommend the use of wood ashes when it 
is a first class article, and to be such it should contain five to eight per 
cent, potash, two to three per cent, phosphoric acid and thirty to fifty per 
cent, wood lime. The after feeding of the vines as they fully develop 
and bear fruit will have to be attended to, using the most convenient fer- 
tilizer for this purpose and in quantities to suit the needs and require- 
ments of the plants. A splendid practice is to apply two or three forkfuls 
of manure around each vine in the month of November or December ot 
each year. 

Training the Vines. — The vines can be trained to stakes as before 
recommended for the first two years and the trellis can be con- 
structed the second Spring after planting if it is convenient to do so. 
The posts should be 9 feet long; the end posts about 6 inches in di- 
ameter at the small end, and the intermediate posts or stakes 4 to 5 
inches. Holes four feet deep should be dug for the end posts, these end 
posts should be well braced. The intermediate posts should be about 20 
feet apart, the exact distance to be regulated somewhat by the vines, and 
may be set in holes, or the lower ends may be sharpened and driven down 
with a weighty mallet. After the posts are set and properly braced, run 
one wire 2y 2 to 3 feet from the ground, the upper wire about six inches 
from the top of the post, and the middle one half way between the two. 
The three wires are sufficient for any of the practical methods of training. 
In putting up the wires they should be fastened to the end posts by wind- 
ing them twice around them, fastening with staples, and to the interme- 
diate posts by staples. The wires should be nicely straightened, but not 
drawn too tight. The vines can then be trained to these wires, spreading 
them out at full length and uniformly over the trellis. In cold climates 
in the Northern States, and in fact in cold and somewhat unfavorable lo- 
cations in the Middle States, the vines are untied from the wires and left 
lay on the ground during the winter months as an extra precaution 
against possible injury by the cold weather during this season. 

Summer Pruning. — This should be done cautiously; in fact we 
do not recommend the practice further than the pinching back and rub- 
bing off of weak and superfluous shoots and laterals. Severe Summer 
pruning is positively injurious to the welfare of the vine; the foliage is the 
life of the plant and to remove any great portion of it during the growing 
season is to weaken the vitality of the plant. 

Thinning the Fruit. — This is of absolute necessity when we wish to 
produce the very choicest samples of fruit. Our vines should not be per- 
mitted to bear any fruit until the third year after being planted. The 
third year, strong vines with good culture ought to produce six to eight' 
pounds. Care must be taken not to allow the vine to overbear, or it may 
be so injured as to never recover. Three to four tons per acre is a full 
average crop for the strongest growers, although good vineyards often pro- 
duce without injury five or six tons per acre. The less the number of 
clusters this weight can be put into, the more satisfactory will be the 
money return from the crop. Hence it is well to thin the fruit, picking 
off the smallest and poorest clusters. 

Spraying.— This is essential to the best results, and should not be neg- 
lected under any circumstances. Moreover, it should be done several 
times during the season. The best spray is the Bordeaux mixture with 
Paris Green added as formulated on page 11. Make the first application 
in the early Spring just as the buds begin to swell, and the second applica- 



80 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

tion when the leaves are two inches in diameter. It is also desirable to 
make a third application directly after the flowers have fallen. Later if 
you notice any indications of fungous disease or leaf bettle spray again 
as before. 

VARIETIES OF GRAPES. 

There is a large and extended list of varieties of grapes. We will, 
however, as with the other fruits, cut down this list as far as possible, 
naming only those that are especially valuable over a wide territory and 
selecting the sorts that are most hardy and that prolong the season for 
fruit to its fullest extent. We will classify them in three classes, namely: 
Blacks, Reds and Whites. 

BLACK VARIETIES. 

Bacchus. — Vines strong, vigorous growers and hardy; bunch medium; 
berry, small, round, juicy, sprightly. A seedling of Clinton which it re- 
sembles but is of better quality. A valuable wine grape, which is its 
-chief value; inferior for table use. 

Campbell's Early. — The vines are hardy, vigorous growers, with good, 
strong, healthy foliage; very productive of large handsome clusters of 
most exquisite flavor; the berries are round, with a delightful bloom; 
color is black, the skin is thin, but firm. Valuable for table use, and one 
•of the best shippers and keepers; buds are hardy. 

Concord. — Vines are exceptionally strong robust growers; hardy, 
healthy and productive. Bunch large, shouldered, compact; berries large, 
covered with a rich bloom; skin tender, but sufficiently firm to carry well 
to distant markets; flesh juicy, sweet, pulpy, tender. For general culti- 
vation the most reliable and profitable variety grown. A good variety 
for home purposes, and also produces a fair quality of wine. 

Early Ohio. — One of the first to ripen its fruit, which makes it the 
most profitable early black grape we have; the vine is hardy, productive, 
and the fruit of the best quality; the bunches are large, compact and 
handsome; berries medium, and of a sprightly, pleasant flavor. A good 
shipper, hence valuable for market. 

Eaton. — The bunches are very large, compact and shouldered. The 
fruit is very large, black and handsome in appearance. The vines are 
strong growers, buds hardy. We like the quality of this grape and recom- 
mend it for the home table. 

Moore's Early. — Bunch not quite as large as Concord, but berries 
larger and very much like it in flavor and quality. Produces a heavy 
crop. Ripens very early and is nearly out of market before Concord is 
ripe, consequently brings a comparatively high price. Vines good, vigorous' 
growers; buds exceptionally hardy; good for home use and grown large- 
ly for market, where it commands the highest prices; it also makes a 
good grade of wine. 

McPike. — Bunch very large, compact, black with blue bloom; berries 
mammoth size, usually three inches or more in circumference, fine quali- 
ty. Has now been well tested in nearly all grape-growing sections; as 
easily grown as Concord or Worden. Vines strong growers; buds hardy; 
valuable for home use and nearby market. 

Wilder. — Ripens with Concord. Bunch and berry very large; vine 
vigorous and prolific. One of the best black varieties. Quality of the 
best; a good shipper; a moderate fair grower; buds hardy; desirable for 
home use and for wine making. 

Worden.— Skin thin. It is superior to Concord. It is better in quail- 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



;sl 



ty, larger berry, ripens from five to ten days earlier. Vines robust 
healthy growers; buds hardy; good for home use and market. The Wor- 
den is grown largely in the Hudson River Valley. We cannot too strong- 
ly recommend this as a valuable commercial grape. 

RED VARIETIES OF GRAPES. 

Agawam. — (Roger's 
No. 15.) Berries very 
large, with thick skin; 
pulp soft, sweet and 
sprightly; very vigor- 
ous; ripens early. One 
of the best shippers 
and keepers and good 
also for the home table 
and for wine. It is, how- 
ever, lacking in foliage, 
which is against it; 
buds are hardy 

Brighton. — Bunch 
large, well formed ; 
berries above medium 
to large, round; excel- 
lent flavor and quality, 
one of the earliest in 
ripening. Vines vigor- 
ous, healthy growers; 
hardy and productive; 
one of the best early 
Red Grapes; valuable 
for market and table 
use; a fair wine grape. 

Catawba. — Berries 
large, round; when ful- 
ly ripe of a dark cop- 
per color, with sweet, 
rich musky flavor. Re- 
quires a long season to 
arrive at full maturity. 
Vines good growers; 
hardy, with strong foli- 
age; exceedingly pro- 
ductive and valuable 
where it succeeds; good 
for table use and makes 
the choicest wine. 

D e I a w a re. — Red, 
bunch small, compact, 
berries small; skin thin 
but firm, flesh juicy, 
very sweet and refresh- 
ing, of best quality; 
vine hardy; very pro- 
ductive; a moderate 
grower; requires rich 
soil and high culture 




82 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

for best results; probably the best all around grape to-day, all things 
considered. It should have a place in every private garden and be plant- 
ed largely for market purposes; one of the choicest table fruits and also 
makes the best wine; it is now being planted extensively by large grow- 
ers. 

Goethe (Rogers' No. 1.) Vines strong growers; productive, and buds 
hardy; bunch usually large, shouldered, compact; berries large, oval, 
yellowish green tinged with red on one side, amber-colored when fully 
ripe; skin thin but firm; fiesh sweet, juicy, with high aromatic flavor. 
One of the best keepers and of best quality for both table and wine. 

Woodruff Red. — A large, red, handsome grape, flavor sprightly and 
pleasant; valuable for the home table and for market; vines strong 
growers; buds hardy; exceedingly productive. 

Wyoming Red. — The earliest good red Grape we grow; bunch small, 
skin bright red, fruit sweet; valuable for home use on account of its ex- 
treme earliness; vine a good grower and buds hardy. 

WHITE VARIETIES OF GRAPES. 

Duchess. — Exceptionally desirable for the home use on account of 
its delicious flavor; bunch medium to large, long, compact, shouldered; 
berries medium, quality best; ripens a little later than Concord; vine 
a good grower and productive. Keeps a long time after being gathered. 

Empire State. — Bunch medium long, compact; berries medium; quali- 
ty best; valuable for home use or for market; vines strong, healthy grow- 
ers and exceedingly productive; a hardy variety; makes a very fair wine. 

Green Mountain. — It stands at the head of the list for earliness, good 
bearing and vigorous, healthy growth. The berries of medium size, color 
greenish white; skin thin, and leaving no unpleasantness whatever in the 
mouth when eaten; one of the choicest flavored White Grapes; valuable 
for the home table and for commercial purposes, for which it is being 
planted extensively; vines are vigorous, productive and hardy; a reliable 
White Grape that should be in every collection. 

Lady. — An early White Grape, hardy and productive; excellent in 
flavor; very desirable for home use; a high class grape and desirable for 
the private garden; needs high culture; a moderate grower. 

Lady Washington. — A late White Grape. Bunch very large, compact, 
double-shouldered; berries large, yellowish green, with thin white bloom; 
flesh tender, sweet, juicy; vines rather frail growers, but with good foli- 
age; ripens rather late for the Northern latitude, but succeeds well in 
many localities at the South and Southwest, where it is a valuable market 
fruit. 

Moore's Diamond. — A prolific bearer, bunches large, handsome and 
compact, slightly shouldered; color delicate, greenish white; vines strong 
growers and hardy; a good market grape. 

Niagara. — Bunch very large and handsome; berries large, round; skin 
thin, melting, sweet; ripens with Concord, and is perhaps the most gen- 
erally planted White Grape for market purposes; vines are exceptionally 
strong, vigorous growers and immensely productive; adapted to a wide 
range of country, and succeeding admirably North and South; known as 
the White Concord. 

Pocklington. — Pale green; berries very large; flesh juicy, sweet, 
with considerable pulp, and foxy; grown largely for market in some sec- 
tions ; makes a very fair quality of wine ; vines are strong, productive and hardy. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



«3 



ASPARAGUS. 



This is one of the choicest and most desirable of all the fruits and 
vegetables, and one of the simplest to grow. A bed once established will, 
with proper care, last for fifteen to twenty years without resetting. 

The Asparagus is one of the best and most healthful products of the 
garden; one of the first of the many fruits and vegetables that we can 
enjoy in the early Spring. With the average season it is ready for table 
use — in this section about the middle of April and continues to produce 
edible stalks until July first. We can therefore hope to have this luscious, 
healtn imparting vegetable every day for ten weeKs. We might add that 
we have for several years past enjoyed this excellent dish here at the 
writer's home for this length of time, and very often use it at two of the 
meals each day. If for want of land we were restricted to the growing of 
one vegetable, it would be the Asparagus. No garden plot can be con- 
sidered a well provided one with- 
out a good portion of it is planted 
with this desirable vegetable. 

We are often asked, '"Mow many 
plants do we need for our family?" 
This is a hard question to answer 
intelligently without first knowing- 
something about the existing con- 
ditions. In a general way, how- 
ever, and with a thorough knowl- 
edge of the requirements of our 
own family in this respect, we feel 
pretty safe in advising two hun- 
dred and fifty plants for a family 
of five persons; five hundred plants 
for a family of ten. Boys and girls 
from seven to twelve years of age 
will eat as much of this vegetable 
as adults, and they ought to have 
all they want of it, too. It is good 
for all. The plants are inexpensive, 
easily cultivated, and a bed once 
properly established will last -for 
many years. 

The above remarks are, of 
course, intended more especially 
for the amateur gardener. We want to say, however, and without fear 
of just criticism, too, that when the conditions are reasonably favorable 
there is no single vegetable or fruit that from year to year will be a 
source of more profit to tne commercial market gardener than an acre or 
two or more of the Asparagus. Here is a product of the garden always in 
demand. Plants comparatively cheap, requiring no special skill to plant 
and cultivate, an easy and pleasant crop to prepare for market and 
above all one that brings the first income from the garden in the early 
Spring. 

Preparation of the Soil. — The author has grown the Asparagus suc- 
cessfully on a variety of soils. Most any land will do, providing it is 




84 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

well drained, naturally or otherwise, and the land is loose and mellow. No 
one should try to grow this vegetable on hard ground or land liable to 
bake. The top soil should have a body of at least ten to twelve inches — 
if more, so much the better. The ground should have been in cultivation 
a year or more; under no circumstances should you plant in new plowed 
sod ground. Use stable manure or the other fertilizers in tne same 
quantities as advised for Strawberries on page 50. It is also beneficial 
to use stable manure directly over the rows during the Winter months, 
as a protection to the roots, on the same principle as covering the Straw- 
berry, except that the covering for the Asparagus need not be so heavy. 
It would be better to have the manure more thoroughly rotted. After 
your trenches have been made with the team and plow, if you are plant- 
ing largely, or by the spade for the small garden bed, you should apply 
in the bottom of these trenches a liberal dressing of well rotted stable 
manure, or in its stead wood ashes or some complete fertilizer. This 
can be readily and easily incorporated with the soil in the bottom of the 
trench directly before the plants are set. The ground should be thorough- 
ly prepared and the soil finely pulverized, freed from all stones, roots or 
rubbish. Perhaps in the planting of no other fruit or vegetable is it of 
such supreme importance and necessity that the land should be worked 
and brought into the best possible condition as in the establishing of the 
Asparagus bed, be it large or small, the great cost and labor is in 
the beginning and it must be well done for best results. 

How the Roots Should be Planted. — Plant for garden culture, three 
feet apart between the rows and one foot apart in the row; for field cul- 
ture set the plants four feet apart between the rows and eighteen inches 
apart in the rows. In either case be sure to set them, if possible, one foot 
below the surface of the ground. Where the virgin soil is shallow, of 
course, this cannot be done, but be sure always to plant as deep as pos- 
sible and never work into the sub-soil more than two or three inches. 
Spread the roots out, covering them not more than three inches deep; 
every ten days or so after, or as the leader shows above the soil, fill in 
again, and use this method of covering until the leader is above the sur- 
face of the ground. We have in the past observed many failures of plants 
to grow, that have wrongfully been charged to the inferiority of the 
plants, that were caused by the planting in these deep trenches and fill- 
ing in over the plants' level with the surface ground at the time of the 
planting, the plants decaying in the ground for want of air, because of 
this deep covering; then let it be remembered that while it is of the first 
importance to get the roots deep in the ground, it should be done in the 
manner described. 

When to Plant.— The plants may be 'set in the Spring during the 
months of March, April and May, the earlier the better after the ground 
is fit to work to get it into proper condition. As a matter of fact May is, 
in early climates, too late. We must always study the condition of the 
plant; when too far advanced it is more or less risky to transplant it. 
Plant while stock is dormant and all will be well if other things are equal. 
The writer has had good results on several occasions and in different sea- 
sons with plantings made during the months of September and October, 
in the Autumn, and feels safe in recommending these as good months in 
which to plant the Asparagus. 

Cultivation. — This is very simple and easily done. Aim to do most of 
the work with the horse plow and cultivator. Keep the ground mellow, 
loose and free of weeds. In the Autumn it is desirable to bank up the 
rows slightly with the soil from the middle between the rows. This can 



DWYER'S GUIDE 85 

be readily done with the mould board plow. Be sure to keep the rows un- 
der control, that the bed can be tilled at all times when the necessity re- 
quires it. If you use strong, well developed, three year old plants and set 
them early in the Spring or the Fall previous, you can make a few early 
cuttings of stalks the following Spring; the next year you can cut during 
the entire season. It is best to cut away and remove the top growth from 
the plantation each Autumn before the seed matures. A liberal applica- 
tion of salt each Spring, or at least every two years, is very desirable 
and beneficial. This salt has of itself but little available plant food, bui 
it unlocks and sets in motion elements that exist in the. soil. It sweetens 
the ground and is destructive to> weeds, and more valuable than all els« 
it attracts moisture, which is very necessary for the successful growing 
of this luscious vegetable. 

The Asparagus Worm. — This has the same general characteristics of 
the Currant Worm, only that it is somewhat smaller. It is a small green 
worm about one-half inch in length. It is, like the Currant Worm, easily 
eradicated. As soon as it appears use the Paris Green mixture as recom- 
mended on page 11. If necessary, make a second application in a few days 
after the first. For Rust use the Bordeaux mixture (without the Paris 
Green), or the Ammoniacal Copper Carbonate Solution, both on page 12. 
Use whichever one is the most convenient, but be sure to keep this rust 
under control, even if you have to repeat tne spraying several times, 
as it is very injurious to the plants, and when left unchecked it weakens 
their vitality, causing a poor, indifferent crop the following season. 

VARIETIES OP ASPARAGUS. 

The writer has had considerable experience in growing the Aspara- 
gus and experimenting with the different varieties. His belief is that on 
the whole tue success or failure of this vegetable is as "we will it." 
With proper or deficient care and cultivation, yet he has learned that we 
must have good varieties to start with, and can recommend those that 
follow, as good as any under cultivation. In cutting Asparagus for our 
own table use, the stalks need not be more than four or five inches in 
length, then it is all fit for use. When cut for market it must be nine to 
ten inches long to make the bunches convenient for handling. 

Barr's Mammoth. — Another valuable acquisition to the asparagus 
family, a variety highly praised and well thought of wherever grown; 
larger and much more productive than Conover's; ripens a few days in 
advance of the Palmetto. Good for market or home use. 

Columbian Mammoth White.— In addition to the marvelous advan- 
tage of its white color, the Columbian Mammoth White Asparagus is 
even more robust and vigorous in habit, and throws larger shoots and 
fully as many of them as the Conover's Colossal. For those who like 
White Asparagus this is the one to plant. Good for all purposes. 

Conover's Colossal. — There is no fruit or vegetable that has had a 
more uniform successful career than this old, popular standard variety 
of Asparagus. It has stood the test of time in different localities and 
varied climatic conditions as favorably as anything in the plant produc- 
tion that has been introduced for the last twenty-five years. Even yet 
many large growers use this variety almost exclusively. It is a reliable, 
adaptable sort, early; a good producer; of quick growth and superb 
in quality. Valuable for the home garden and for commercial purposes. 

Giant Argenteuii. — The finest and most profitable of all Asparagus. 
Stalks of mammoth size, bright and attractive; in quality sweet and 



86 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



tender. It yields immensely and is very early; it is a French variety 
and has proved a great money maker wherever planted. A splendid 
market variety and also desirable for the home table. 

Palmetto. — This is the leading variety at the present day, more of 
it being planted than any other single sort. It is considerably larger 
than the Conover's, the old reliable standard variety for so many years, 
is fully as early and as productive, while the flavor is un- 
surpassed. This stands at the head of the list. All things con- 
sidered, probably more of it being in cultivation to-day than any 
other single sort. It seems to give general satisfaction wherever plant- 
ed. I have heard nothing but words of commendation for the Palmetto 
from all sections and my own experience with it has been at all times 
favorable. The writer recommends it to all who contemplate planting 
either for market purposes or for the home garden. 



RHUBARB— PIE PLANT. 



This is a grateful vegetable and the first in the spring to remind us of 
the good things that are to follow. It is one of the easiest vegetables 
grown. It can be successfully produced in most any corner of the gar- 
den, providing the land is rich. It does best, however, in a row in the 
garden. Six plants are sufficient for a small family, while twelve plants 
will supply the largest family with an abundance right through the sea- 
son. Plants once established in the ground will last for ten to fifteen 
years without resetting. Plant for garden culture in rows four feet 
apart. Any good ordinary garden soil will produce 
this vegetable; the richer the soil the better the 
results. For field culture tne plants should be 
planted four feet apart in the row and five feet 
apart between the rows. The Rhubarb is grown 
largely for market purposes. We know many mar- 
ket gardeners who make a specialty of growing 
this vegetable and it is one of their most profitable 
crops. It is a specially desirable crop to grow in 
connection witn the Asparagus, both making a good 
combination, as they are marketed at the same 
season of the year. When grown for market ex- 
tensively ihe cost of labor for tillage is trifling, 
and comparatively small when compared with 
other perenial vegetables or fruits. While it is 
a generous productive plant and one that can be 
relied upon to bring the grower remunerative prices 
from year to year, rarely indeed is there a season 
when it will not bring profitable returns. 

Cultivation. — This can nearly all be done with 
the use of the plow and cultivator. In fact, when 
these implements are used in a timely season, and 
as they should be, by working close to the plants, 
there should be very little hand work by hoeing or 




RHUBARB. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 87 

otherwise, necessary. As with the Asparagus, it is beneficial to slight- 
ly ridge up the rows in the late fall, to make more perfect and rapid 
drainage, to promote and increase the early growth of the plants in the 
spring. An early southern exposure is, of course, the best situation for 
the Rhubarb. Perhaps in no other crop is earliness of such primary ana 
supreme importance as in the cultivation of this vegetable. Our mar- 
kets will command surprisingly high prices for the early production — 
prices that make it worth our while to endeavor to secure by the best 
cultural methods. 

Fertilizers. — The ordinary stable manure is positively the best for 
the Rhubarb. It should be applied in the late fall, using two or three 
large forkfuls directly on top of each plant, and letting it remain there 
during the winter, to serve the double purpose of protection and food 
for the plants. When this cannot be had wood ashes or other good 
fertilizers can be used as a substitute. 

When Planting. — Set the roots so that the crowns will be three in- 
ches below the grade surface of the ground. Strong two-year-old roots 
are the best stock to start with; you can have a good crop of stalks from 
these the following season. Rhubarb should be planted in the months 
of March and April, the earlier the better for best results. We do not 
advise Autumn planting of this vegetable. 

VARIETIES OF RHUBARB. 

Early Scarlet.— Smaller than Myatt's, but extremely early and very 
highest quality. Perhaps the best extra early sort for home use. 

Myatt's Linnaeus.— This is the leading market variety, and is grown 
extensively for that purpose. It is also desirable for the home use. It 
is an early, tender variety, without being in the least tough or stringy, 
with a mild sub-acid flavor. 

Queen. — Strong, vigorous grower, producing extra large stalks of 
finest quality, of a decided pink color. For canning or cooking in any 
way its quality is unsurpassed. 

St. Martins. — A new English variety, now grown largely for the 
London market. It is not only immensely productive, but it is also one 
of the earliest and, above all, it has a rich, spicy flavor, very similar 
to the gooseberry, when used for pies or tarts. At the present time this 
is being planted quite largely here and is highly appreciated by those 
who are acquainted with it. . 

Victoria. — Leaves large, skin rather thick, more acid that the Myatt's, 
but cultivated largely for market, where it brings good prices. The 
plants are fine, vigorous, compact growers. 




88 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



Ornamental Trees, Plants and Vines* 






JN order to successfully 
beautify our home 
grounds we should be- 
gin with the primary 
considerations and allow the 
details to come along natur- 
ally. Therefore, it is my in- 
tention to impress my read- 
ers in as few words as pos- 
sible with the absolute ne- 
cessity of attending to 11 it- 
preliminary arrangemei 1 1 s 
It is not necessary to 
have any specially prepared 
soil for the successful cul- 
ture of ornamental shade 
trees, shrubs, vines, pro- 
viding, of course, that it 
is drained naturally or arti- 
ficially. Botanical usage re- 
quires for each tree or plant 
two names, one to specify 
the genus, the other to in- 
dicate the species. In order 
that our readers may famil- 
iarize themselves with bo- 
tanical nomenclature, which 
is very essential for the dis- 
crimination of trees, plants, 
and vines. I will use the bo- 
tanical names, and also give 
the common name in paren- 
thesis. 

When to Plant.— In the Spring, during the months of March, April 
and May, the earlier the better, and in October, November and December, 
in the Fall. The most essential part of planting is the preparation of the 
holes. Of course, it is impossible for me to explain in this work the exact 
size of eacn hole; we must take into consideration that the many different 
species of trees and shrubs employed in the decoration of the lawn have a 
root very dissimilar. Some have very long, tap-roots, others 
quite flat and spreading. As a rule shrubs have a great mass of hair- 
like roots, so we can readily understand the necessity of having good, 
large holes for the reception of our trees and plants. Therefore I advise for 
shade trees and ornamental shrubs holes three and one-half feet in 
circumference and fifteen inches deep. In digging the hole it is inex- 
pensive to place the good top soil in one side and the sub-soil on the 
other. In this manner we have the good soil intact. Always have the 
soil in the bottom of the hole loose. It is also advisable to mix a hand- 




DWYER'S GUIDE- 89 

ful of wood ashes with the loose soil, which will at once begin to force 
our trees into growing. 

How to Plant. — Do not allow the roots to remain exposed to the 
wind and sun. This is very detrimental. Although not necessary, it is ad- 
visable to wet the roots before planting. The soil will more readily ad- 
here to them and assist them to take their nourishment from mother 
earth much sooner than if planted in a dry condition. Place the tree or 
shrub in Uie hole and carefully spread the roots. Do not allow them to 
come in contact with the hard edges of the hole. Take the good top 
soil which we have reserved and place it on the roots and work it 
amongst them. We are now at the most vital part of our planting, and 
must not neglect to use foot power to firm the soil about the roots. This 
thorough firming being done, we proceed to fill in the hole with the re- 
maining soil to about six inches of the top. Put about two good forks of 
well-rotted manure on top of the soil, and fill in the remaining soil to the 
level of the ground. The object of covering the manure is to prevent 
the escape of nitrogen in the form of ammonia and reap the benefits of 
the elements of plant food contained in the manure. 

Mulching. — A very good practice, and one quite frequently neglected, is 
mulching the tree after planting. It is very simple and inexpensive. Any 
loose straw, litter or grass that may be on hand may answer the purpose. 
By this means we keep the weeds down and hold the moisture, which is 
quite necessary ior the sustenance of plant life. 

Fall Planting should be done in October, November and De- 
cember, and can be very much improved by mounding soil about the 
trunk of the tree to the height of about twelve inches. In this way we 
accomplish the double purpose of keeping the borers from entering the 
tree at the crown, which is the point he enters to begin his depreda- 
tions, and that of keeping the tree from swaying with the winds. The 
distance to set ornamental shade trees must be governed by the result 
we desire to attain. We must consider the future when we are planning 
and arranging our landscape work and at all times keep it uppermost 
in our mind. To be successful in this line we must accomplish two pur- 
poses. Our work must be practical and pleasing to the eye, conse- 
quently we must give our work careful consideration and study the ob- 
ject in view. In beautifying home grounds we can by a judicious selec- 
tion combine beautification and durability. For instance, if I were doing 
the landscape work on a country place, or in a park, I would employ for 
shade trees along the roads permanent trees, such as the Acer Sacchar- 
inum (Sugar Maple) or Acer Platanoides (Norway Maple), both of 
which are of slow growth and very beautiful. With ordinary care these 
varieties will live for generations. We could use many other species 
that would at first give results which would be pleasing to us, but would 
be only temporary, being short lived. The distance apart to plant shade 
trees along private drives or avenues is between twenty-five and thirty 
feet. By this means we give the roots sufficient soil from which to 
take their nourishment, and at the same time allow the branches to de- 
velop and spread in their natural way, without any interefernce. It is 
quite necessary in arranging trees on the lawn to plant in clumps. By 
this means we can acquire a more finished appearance than planting 
singly. In that case we must plant at a lesser distance apart. Prom 
fifteen to twenty feet is the proper distance. 

Pruning Back. — At the time of planting cut back the branches of 
the tree or shrub fully one-half, always keeping in mind to aid you the 
general or natural formation of the specie. Then make smooth all muti- 



90 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



lated roots. Beautiful effects can be produced by planting in clumps of 
three, five and eight. 

Spraying. — It is a good practice and very beneficial to spray the De- 
ciduous Trees and Shrubs in the early spring. This should be done just 
before the buds begin to swell, using the Bordeaux mixture with the 
Paris Green added as advised on page 11 of this book. 

Occasionally during the Summer months plant vermin will attack the 
trees and shruos. As soon as you notice taem, spray thoroughly at 
once, using half a pound of Paris green and four pounds of slacked lime 
to fifty gallons of water. This spray will soon exterminate them. 

The three following varieties make a very desirable small clump and 
harmonize nicely: 

Fagus Purpurea (Purple Leaved Beech). — Makes an elegant medium- 
sized tree for the lawn, the foliage in the spring is a deep purple, chang- 
ing to crimson, in the autumn a dull purplish green. 

Acer Wierii Laciniatum (Wiers Cut-Leaf Maple).— One of the hand- 
somest trees we have to-day; rapid growth; beautiful dissected foliage 




PLANTING ABOUT THE COUNTRY HOME. 

and drooping form. Makes a very ornamental tree, and is being planted 
largely as an avenue tree. 

Liriodendron Tulipifera (Tulip Tree). — A magnificient native tree, 
with broad, glossy fiddle-shaped leaves of a light green color and beauti- 
ful tulip-like flowers, allied to the Magnolias. 

The five species hereafter named make a very beautiful clump, con- 
taining varied characteristics in form of growth and foliage. 

Catalpa, Hybrida Japonica (Teas, Japan Catalpa). — Exceedingly rap- 
id grower, with spreading, irregular form, and its large heart-shaped 
leaves, and clusters of white and purplish flowers in midsummer and its 
long seed pods in autumn make it an attractive ornamental tree for the 



DWYERS GUIDE. 91 

lawn. The flowers are delightfully fragrant, and remain on the trees 
twelve to fifteen days. 

Acer, Saccharinum (Sugar Maple). — A well known native tree of 
elegant pyramidal form; valuable for the production of sugar and for its 
wood. Its fine form and foliage make it desirable as an ornamental and 
shade tree; the great American tree, and too well and favorably known 
to need any extended description. 

Betula Papyracea (Paper or Canoe Birch). — Native of America; 
forms a large tree; bark brilliant white, leaves large and handsome. 

Populus Bolleana (Bolleana Poplar). — Resembles Lombardy in growth, 
foliage dark green above and silvery green beneath; one of the best 
silver-leaved trees. A clean, beautiful tree in every particular. 

Acer Shwedlerii (Schwedlers Maple). — A beautiful tree with the 
young shoots and leaves of a bright purple or crimson color; changes 
to purplish green in the older leaves; one of the handsomest trees we 
have for lawn planting. 

For a large group of eight use these named and described below: 

Fagus, Cuprea (Copper Beech). — A rapid growing tree, foliage copper 
color; much used for avenues and lawns. 

Pyrus, Aucuparia (European Mountain Ash). — A fine, hardy tree, of 
medium size, erect stem and pinnate foliage covered from July until win- 
ter with large clusters of bright scarlet berries; very ornamental for the 
lawn. 

Koelreuteria, Pan icu lata (Varnish Tree). — The Koelreuteria is not 
as well known as it should be, as it fills a place in general landscape 
work occupied by few other trees. Leaves are pinnate dark green and 
are so glossy that they appear to be varnished. Producing large panicles 
of showy yellow flowers in July. 

Liquidambar Styraciflua (Sweet Gum or Bilsted). — One of the finest 
American trees. Of medium size and moderate growth; form round- 
headed or tapering; leaves resemble somewhat those of the maple, but 
are star-shaped and of a beautiful glossy green color in summer, turning 
to a deep purplish crimson in autumn ; bark corky. Beautiful in all 
stages of growth, it is particularly handsome and striking in autumn. 

Magnolia Macrophylla (Great Leaved Magnolia). — This we consider 
one of the greatest lawn ornaments, and should be planted on every well 
arranged lawn. The leaves are two feet in length and white beneath. 
Flowers, when full blown, 8 to 10 inches in diameter; appearing in June. 
Very rare. 

Acer, Platanoides (Norway Maple). — A distinct foreign variety, with 
large, broad leaves of a deep, rich green. One of the finest and most 
desirable trees grown. 

Acer, Pseuda Platanus (Sycamore Maple). — A beautiful tree with the 
right growth, with large foliage and ash gray colored bark. Winters 
back in cold situations. 

Aesculus, Rubicunda (Red Flowering Chestnut). — Not so rapid a 
grower as the white; foliage of dark green, blooms later. A very showy 
tree. No lawn is complete without this very handsome tree. 

There are many more Ornamental Trees that can be used in grouping, 
but from our own experience and observation we consider those varieties 
which we have named and described above, the most valuable for this 
purpose. 

Gymnocladus, Canadensis (Kentucky Coffee Tree). — A beautiful tree, 



92 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

with pinnate leaves, foliage a delicate bluish green; flowers in June, fol- 
lowed by very long seed pods; very desirable for lawn planting; thrives 
well on any soil. 

Morus Downing (Downing Mulberry). — Everbearing; a fine ornamen- 
tal tree; bears fine black fruit. 

Quercus Alba (American White Oak). — One of the finest American 
trees, of large size and spreading branches; leaves lobed, pale green 
above and glaucous beneath. 

Cercis, Canadensis (American Judas Tree). — A very ornamental tree, 
with perfect heart-shaped leaves, covered with a profusion of delicate 
reddish purple flowers. Before the foliage appears, grown as single spe- 
cimens, they are very attractive. 

Salisburia, Adiantifolia (Maiden Hair Tree). — A tree from Japan 
combining in its characteristics the Conifer and Deciduous tree. The 
tree is of medium size, beautiful, fern-like foliage, resembling a maiden 
hair fern. Rare and elegant. 

Chionanthus, Virginica (White Fringe). — A small native tree, with 
large, glossy leaves and drooping racemes of pure white flowers, having 
fringe-like petals; blooms in May. 

Salix, Laurefolia (Laurel Leaf Willow). — A medium-sized tree of 
great merit, of rounded form, foliage deep green, resembling very much 
the handsome Broad Leaf Laurel. 

Quercus Palustris (Pin Oak). — This is considered the most beauti- 
ful of all the Oaks. As the tree grows the branches droop until the 
lower ones touch the ground, giving it a peculiarly beautiful ovate out- 
line. The leaves are deep green, glossy and finely divided, flaming to 
orange and scarlet in the fall. 

Rhus Cotinus (Purple Fringe). — A very curious tree, with masses of 
purplish flowers. When covered with dew, it resembles a cloud of 
smoke. It is sometimes called smoke tree. 

Liquidambar Styraciflua (Sweet Gum or Bilsted). — One of the finest 
American trees. Of medium size and moderate growth, form round- 
headed or tapering; leaves resemble somewhat those of the maple, but 
are star-shaped and of a beautiful glossy green color in summer, turn- 
ing to a deep purplish crimson in autumn; bark corky. Beautiful in all 
stages of growth, it is particularly handsome and striking in autumn. 

Acer Shwedlerri (Schwedlers Maple). — A beautiful tree with the 
young shoots and leaves of a bright purple or crimson color; changes to 
purplish green in the older leaves; one of the handsomest trees we have 
for lawn planting. 

Populus, Boleana (Boleana Poplar). — Resembles Lombardy in its 
growth; foliage dark green above and silvery green beneath; one of 
the best silver-leaved trees. 

Acer, Dasycarpum (Silver Maple). — A handsome shade tree of rapid 
growth, with small foliage of glossy green above and silvery appearance 
beneath. Tree very hardy and easily transplanted where immediate 
shade is required. One of the most useful trees, also a favorite street 
and park tree. 

Acer Wierii Laciniatum (Wiers Cut-Leaf Maple). — One of the hand- 
somest trees we have to-day; rapid growth, beautiful dissected foliage 
and drooping form. Makes a very ornamental tree. 

Aesculus, Rubicunda (Red Flowering Chestnut). — Not so rapid a 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



93 



grower as the white; foliage of dark green, blooms later. A very showy- 
tree. No lawn is complete without this very handsome tree. 

Fagus, Cupera (Copper Beech). — A rapid growing tree, foliage copper 
color; much used for avenues and lawns. 

Pyrus, Aucuparia (European Mountain Ash).^A fine, hardy tree, of 
medium size, erect stem and pinnate foliage, covered from July until 
winter with large clusters of bright scarlet berries; very ornamental for 
the lawn. 

Fraxinus, Quercifolia (Oak Leaved Ash). — A tree with pyramidal 
head and dark lobed leaves, downy underneath, producing scarlet berries; 
very hardy and desirable for planting in lawns. 

Catalpa, Hybrida Japonica (Teas, Japan Catalpa). — Exceedingly 
rapid grower with spreading, irregular form and its large heart-shaped 




A DESIRABLE COMBINATION AT AI y I, SEASONS. 

leaves, and clusters of white and purplish flowers in midsummer and its 
long seed pods in autumn make it an attractive ornamental tree for the 
lawn. 

Tilia, Americana (American Linden). — A native tree, with large 
leaves and a profusion of yellow flowers, in early summer; desirable for 
lawn or avenue. 

Tilia, Europeau (European Linden). — A variety of neat and com- 
pact habit; leaves are much larger than our native sorts. 

Liriodendron Tulipifera (Tulip Tree). — A magnificient native tree, 



94 DWYERS GUIDE. 

with broad glossy fiiddle-shaped leaves of a light green color and beau- 
tiful tulip-like flowers, allied to the Magnolias. 

Acer Lutescens. — A variety of the silver-leaved maple, of vigorous 
growth, with bright yellow leaves. Its rich bronze shoots in spring, and 
tender yellow-green foliage in summer, will render it a valuable tree for 
the landscape. 

Ulmus Campestris (English Elm). — An erect, lofty tree, of rapid, com- 
pact growth, with smaller and more regularly cut leaves than those of 
the American, and darker colored bark. The branches project from the 
trunk almost at right angles, giving the tree a noble appearance. 

Ulmus Belgica. — A fine variety of English Elm, large size, rapid 
growth, and fine spreading shape. 

Acer, Reitenbachi (Reitenbach's Norway Maple). — An excellent and 
striking variety with dark purple leaves, which retain their color through- 
out the season. 

Acer, Platanoides Dissectum (Cut-Leaved Norway Maple). — Com- 
pact growing tree, with dense, dark green foliage, which is regularly 
and deeply cut, so as almost to divide the leaf into three parts. One of 
the best of tne cut-leaved varieties; rare. 

Cornus Florida (White Flowering Dogwood). — An American species, 
of spreading irregular form, growing from 16 to 25 feet high. The 
flowers produced in spring before the leaves appear are from 3 to Zy 2 
inches in diameter, white and very showy. They begin to appear just 
as the Magnolia flowers are fading, and are invaluable for maintaining a 
succession of bloom in the garden border or on the lawn. 

Virgilia Lutea (Yellow Wood). — One of the finest American trees. 
Of moderate growth, broadly rounded head, foliage compound like that 
of the Robinia, and of a light green color, turning to a warm yellow in Au- 
tumn; flowers pea-shaped, white, sweet-scented, appearing in June in 
great profusion, in long drooping racemes covering the tree. 

Cytisus (Laburnum or Golden Chain). — A native of Europe, with 
smooth and shining foliage. The name Golden Chain alludes to the 
length of the drooping racemes of yellow flowers, which appear in June. 

THE BEST ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING TREES. 

Although there are many other flowering trees in cultivation, I have 
from personal observation selected the following as the most desirable 
from many points of view, requiring no special treatment, all being per- 
fectly hardy and can be planted with safety in the most exposed situ- 
ations, and can be adapted to large or small lawns with equally good 
results. It is not my intention to go into any lengthy detail in describing 
the different trees, but confine myself to simplicity and designate the 
maximum height, period of bloom, color of flower and peculiarity of foli- 
age and growth: 

Catalpa Bungei (Chinese Catalpa). — A Chinese species, forming a 
perfect umbrella-shaped head, with thickly overlapped, large glossy green 
foliage, producing white flowers, margined with purple in July. Attains 
a height of ten feet. 

Catalpa Speciosa (Western Catalpa, Indian Bean). — An extraordi- 
narily hardy tree; blooms in the early part of July; color of flower pure 
white, slightly tinged with a delicate shade of purple; leaves heart- 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 95 

shaped and very large. Its rapid growth makes it valuable for lawn 
planting, making a tree forty feet high in a short time. 

Aesculus Rubicunda (Red Flowering Horse Chestnut). — Rounded 
form, dark green foliage; flowers very showy red, which remain in 
bloom from middle of May to first of June; very hardy and quite free from 
insects; very desirable for lawn or street planting, requiring no prun- 
ing. They will make beautiful specimens forty feet in height. 

Aesculus Alba flore pleno (Double White Flowered Horsechestnut) . — 
Habit of growth pyramidal, bearing large panicles of double white flowers- 
latter part of May; an admirable effect can be produced by grouping it 
with the Rubicunda, or as a lawn specimen it has no superior. I have- 
seen this variety fifty feet in height, which was a sight to behold when 
in full bloom. 

Magnolia Macrophylla (Great Leaved Magnolia). — One of the most 
magnificent trees in cultivation, possessing many features; foliage yellow- 
ish green, white beneath and two feet in length; flowers white and very 
fragrant, measuring ten inches in diameter and appearing in June. Tree- 
medium size, rarely ever attaining a greater height than thirty feet. To» 
insure growth the Magnolia should be planted in the Spring. 

Magnolia Tripetela (Umbrella Tree). — A medium sized tree with im- 
mense leaves and large white flowers, succeeded with crimson fruit- 
cones, which give it a handsome appearance. Owing to its dense head 
it is valuable as a shade tree; maximum height forty feet. 

Magnolia Accuminati (Cucumber Magnolia). — A tree of unusual 
growth, attaining a height of sixty to ninety feet; leaves very attractive, 
nine inches long, with a peculiar shade of bluish green, flowers yellow 
tinted with purple and harmonizing nicely with the foliage; fruit when 
green resembles a cucumber. All things considered we think this variety 
as valuable as any of the species of the Magnolia family indigenous to 
America. 

Magnolia Conspicua (Chinese White Magnolia). — A medium sized 
tree of great beauty, valuable for planting on small lawns where space 
is limited; profuse bloomer; flowers very large and pure white; foliage 
of normal size. An additional feature of Magnolia Conspicua is its 
blooming before the leaves appear. It requires years for it to reach its 
greatest height — fifteen feet. 

Magnolia Speciosa (Showy Flowered Magnolia). — Stubby while 
young, but becoming a fair sized tree with age; flowers white and purple, 
cup-shaped; foliage large glossy and massive; blooms a week later than 
any other Chinese variety and retains its flowers in perfect condition a 
great length of time. 

Magnolia Lennei (Lenne's Magnolia) .A superb variety and like the 
other varieties of the Chinese family it is a dwarf. Foliage very large 
and conspicuous; flowers deep purple and fragrant, which are borne when 
the tree is very young. These qualities combined with its hardiness 
render it very valuable. 

Prunus Padus (European Bird Cherry). — A rapid growing tree of 
great beauty; foliage glossy, flowers white and fragrant; especially 
adapted to small lawns; height thirty feet. 

Prunus Padus Flora Pleno (Double Flowered Bird Cherry). — A 
rapid pyramidal grower, producing double flowers; valuable as a speci- 
men tree; height when fully grown, forty feet. 

Cercis Canadensis (American Judas Tree). — A very desirable tree 



96 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



for the lawn; perfect heart-shaped leaves. Before the foliage appears 
the tree is covered with reddish purple flowers; height from twenty to 
thirty feet. 

Cercis Japonica (Japanese Judas Tree). — Avaluable addition to the 
list of medium sized trees; foliage deep green and smaller than the 
American species; flowers large and of a rich purple color; on account of 
its dwarf habit of growth it can be used to good advantage for grouping; 
rarely ever grows more than fifteen feet tall. 

Cornus Florida (White Flowering Dogwood). — A tree of spreading 
irregular form; the flowers, which are produced in Spring before the 
leaves appear, are white and very showy and remain in perfect condition 
a long time; height, sixteen to twenty-five feet. 

Cornus Flore Rubro (Red Flowering Dogwood). — A variety producing 
bright red flowers when quite young. Height, twenty to thirty feet. 

Crataegus Flore Pleno (Double White Thorn). — Deserves a place on 
every lawn; dense grower requiring very little space; foliage very attrac- 




THE AUTHOR AND WIFE IN 1899. 

tive; flowers are white and double; season of bloom latter part of May 
to June; fifteen feet in height. 

Crataegus Coccinea Flore Pleno (Scarlet Thorn).— Flowers very 
double, having a beautiful scarlet shade; will thrive well in any soil; 
height from twelve to fifteen feet. 

Gymnocladus Canadensis (Kentucky Coffee Tree).— A fine native tree 
wtih rough bark and stiff, blunt shoots; foliage feathery, with a delicate 
bluish green color; very conspicuous as a lawn ornament; blooms in 
June. Height varies from thirty to forty feet. 

Koelreuteria Paniculata (Varnish Tree).— A native of China; round 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 97 

headed and extremely hardy; foliage fine lobed; covered with a profusion 
of golden yellow flowers in July when most other trees are done bloom- 
ing. Maximum height forty feet. 

Liriodendron Tulipofera (Tulip Tree or White Wood). — A magnificent 
tree with bright green shining leaves; flowers large yellow, blotched 
with orange and green. This stately tree is one of our best native sorts; 
valuable for street planting; attains a height of fitfy feet. 

Persica Vulgaris Flora Alba Pleno (Double White Flowering Peach). 
A small tree of remarkable beauty when enveloped with its double white 
flowers in Spring before other trees have begun to blossom. 

Persica Vulgaris Flora Rosea Pleno (Red Flowering Peach). — A 
sight worth looking at in Spring, every branchlet being covered with rose 
like flowers; valuable as a single specimen or for grouping with flower- 
ing shrubs. 

Ptelea Trifoliata (Hop Tree). — A small tree of great beauty at all 
seasons of the year, having a peculiarly mottled bark and producing 
beautiful white flowers in June; a very interesting object in Autumn 
when it displays its hop-like seed pods; fifteen feet greatest height. 

Pyrus Mai us Angustifolia (Bechtels Flowering Crab). — I cannot say 
too much in praise of this beautiful little tree; completely covered in 
early Spring with a double rose-like mass of bloom; fifteen feet in height. 

Pyrus Malus Parkmanni (Parkman's Double Flowering Crab).— A 
Japanese species of dwarf habit of growth; flowers are borne in clusters 
of a dark rose color; ten feet greatest height. 

Rhus Cotinus (Smoke Tree). — A small tree of fifteen feet in height, 
spreading to considerable extent and requiring more space than the or- 
dinary medium size tree. It is a grand sight when in bloom in mid-sum- 
mer; its flowers are fringe or hair-like and resemble a cloud of smoke. 

Virgilia Lutea (Yellow Wood — .One of the finest American trees of 
moderate growth; foliage, light green color, turning to a beautiful yellow 
in Autumn; very attractive in June when covered with racemes of white 
pea-shaped flowers. 

Amygdalus Communis Flore Rosea Pleno (Double Flowering Al- 
mond). — A vigorous, hardy tree, covered in May with double rose colored 
blossoms resembling small roses; rarely ever grows taller than twelve 
feet; valuable for planting in borders with flowering shrubs. 

Chionanthus Virginica (White Fringe).— A superb lawn ornament of 
rounded form and dwarf habit of growth; foliage large and glossy— this 
feature alone should insure for it a prominent place on every lawn, but to 
add to its beauty in May and June it is covered with racemes of pure 
white flowers. I have seen specimens of this tree ten years old twenty 
five feet tall. 

Prunus Pissardi (Purple Leaved Plum).— A small tree of great value 
in the beautification of the home grounds; not like other purple leaved 
trees which are at their greatest beauty when the foliage first appears, 
the Prunus Pissardi improves its coloring effect as the season advances 
and is at its best in the late Autumn. It bears a profusion of small white 
flowers in Spring. It can be used advantageously as a specimen tree, 
for grouping with other trees and shrubs, or can be used with marvelous 
effect for hedging purposes; can be kept at any desired height; if allowed 
to grow it will reach its normal height, fifteen feet, in five years. 

Cytisus (Laburnum or Golden Chain).— A native of Europe, having 
a dark green bark; attractive as a lawn tree; foliage smooth and 



98 DWYEE'S GUIDE. 

glossy. The name Golden Chain alludes to the drooping racemes of yel- 
low flowers which cover the tree in June; makes a growth of thirty feet. 

WEEPING DECIDUOUS TREES. 

The following are the most valuable and ornamental of the Weeping 
Trees and should have a place on every lawn. They are almost indis- 
pensable to the landscape gardener, possessing a character of their own. 
they can be used for many purposes. 

Morus Tartarica Pendula (Weeping Russian Mulberry). 

Populus, Grandidentata Pendula (Weeping Tooth Leaved Pop lar). 

Betula Alba (European White Weeping Birch). — A graceful tree, with 
silvery bark and slender branches. Quite erect when young, but after four 
or five years' growth assumes an elegant drooping habit, rendering the 
tree very effective in landscapes. 

Fagus Pendula (Weeping Beech). — Originated in Belgium. A re- 
markably vigorous, picturesque tree of large size. Its mode of growth is 
extremely curious. The trunk or stem is generally straight, with the 
branches tortuous and spreading; quite ungainly in appearance when di- 
vested of their leaves, but when covered with rich luxuriant foliage, of 
wonderful grace and beauty. 

Fraxinus, Pendula (Weeping Ash). 

Betula, Pendula Laciniata (Weeping Cut Leaf Birch). 

Salix, Caprea Pendula (Weeping Kilmarnock Willow). 

Salix Wisconsin Pendula (Weeping Wisconsin Willow). 

Tilia, alba Pendula (Weeping Linden). 

Ulmus, Camperdown Pendula (Weeping Camperdown Elm). 



JAPAN MAPLES. 



The Japan Maples are so distinct in size, foliage and growth from the 
other maples and ornamental trees that we place them in a group by 
themselves. They are an exceedingly beautiful and interesting class" 
of trees, their dwarf habit, varied and handsome foliage fit them for a 
place even on the smallest lawn. These can be supplied in quite an 
extended list and great variety of form. They comprise varieties with 
bright and dark red, yellow and green, and variegated leaves; finely 
cut, lobed and serrated foliage, dwarf growers requiring but little room. 
For beauty of coloring they are unsurpassed; for effective grouping and 
display they are unrivalled. There are a large number of other Japan 
Maples but in this climate we have found only those named below to be 
reliable and worthy of the expense incurred in purchasing them. 

How to Plant. — These trees should be planted in the same way as 
recommended for the other shade trees and shrubs. They are semi-dwarf 
trees and when planted in groups should be set twelve to fifteen feet 
apart. 

Acer. Polymorphum (Japan Maple). — The normal form of type, foli- 
age small, five lobed and of a bright cheerful green in Spring and Summer, 
changing to a dark crimson in Autumn. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



99 



Acer, Atropurpureum (Purple 
Leaved Japan Maple). — Foliage 
dark purple and finely cut. The 
hardiest of the Japan maples. 

Acer, Sanguineum (Blood 
Leaved Japan Maple). — Of 
dwarf habit, foliage, serrated; 
blood red in June. One of the 
best of the family of Japan 
Maples. 

Acer, Ampelopsiiobum (Seven- 
Lobed Japan Maple). — A hand- 
some tree with green foliage 
and seven-lobed. 

Acer, Atropurpureum disec- 
tum (Cut Leaf Japan Maple). — : 
One of thp most striking of the 
.Japanese varieties; dwarf and 
weeping. The leaves are rose 
color when young, changing to 
deep purple as they become old- 
er. They are delicately cut, 
giving them a fern like appear- 
ance. 

Acer, Palmatum. — A strong 
growing variety with broad, 
light-green foliage. 

Acer, Palmatum aureum. — 
Very dwarf and compact, and one of the hardiest and best. Foliage broad 
and a large part of Summer a vivid golden yellow. 

Acer Rosio Pictis (Cut Leaved Variegated Japan Maple). — Dwarf; 
most delicately formed o'f all; foliage deeply and finely cut like lace. 




FOUAGE OF THE JAPAN MAPLE. 



FOR STREET PLANTING. 

We must consider the location in which we are going to plant. There 
are many shade trees that will tnrlve and do well on the home grounds, 
but when employed for street planting are complete failures. Great care 
should be exercised in this respect with planting in cities where we have 
such a great amount of gas as there are a great many species which are 
unable to resist its poisonous effects, I have very often observed, es- 
pecially in New York City,the great quanity of beautiful trees that have 
been destroyed of their beauty by these gaseus effects. I have particular- 
ly noticed that the family of Poplars make the most desirable trees for 
street planting in cities, where it is quite natural that trees must under- 
go considerable abuse and neglect. The elms are a beautiful family of 
trees and make fine, lofty shade trees for street or avenue planting, but 
are susceptible to that very destructive creature, Galercua Luteola (Elm 
Leaf Beetle), which will in a short time defoliate the tree, and if not kept 
under control it will eventually kill it. Consequently we can readily un^ 
derstand the great risk in using tnis grand old tree for street planting. 
The Maples are very desirable for this purpose, being free from the attaks 
of insects which is a valuable commendation in their favor. Owing to 
their beautiful Autumnal tints they make a very beautiful showing as a 
street or avenue ornament. 



LotC. 



100 DWYEE'S GUIDE. 

HARDY ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS. 



We are all fully aware of the necessity of flowering shrubs in the beau- 
tification of the rural home grounds and the great quantities of species of 
this family we have to select from. Having made a careful study of this 






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branch of horticultural work I feel confident that the varieties which I 
intend to describe and recommend will give entire satisfaction to my 
readers, no matter in what section of country you may intend to plant. I 
have been very cautious to select only mose varieties that are perfectly 
hardy and will give good effects whether planted singly or in groups. Let 
me importune my friends to be more generous in the use of shrubs on the 
home grounds; they require very little care except an occasional shorten- 
ing of the branches to infuse new life in the remaining buds, and remov- 
ing old and decayed wood. When once planted we can have an abundance 
of bloom annually from Spring until Autumn, providing we make selec- 
tions that will give us a continuity of flowers. Not so with Herbaceous or 
bedding plants, which we must continue to plant annually. We will not 
attempt to group the various sorts but leave this to the judgment of the 
planter, he being in a better position to determine the desired results. 

How to Plant. — Dig the holes and plant in the same way as before 
recommended for the ornamental trees. The Hardy Flowering Shrubs 
can be planted during the months of March, April and May, in the Spring. 
Our aim should be, however, to plant them as early as possible, whilst the 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



101 



stock is in dormant condition. You can also plant in the Fall to good ad- 
vantage during the months of October, November and December. Mulch 
the ground about the plants with a good, liberal application of stable ma- 
nure, letting it remain on the ground during the Winter months, and in- 
corporating it in the soil in the early Spring. 

Spirea, Vanhouttii. — One of the most charming and beautiful of the 
Spireas. Habit graceful and drooping. Completely covered with pani- 
cles of pure white flowers. A handsome sight when in full bloom. We 
cannot say to much in praise of this grand shrub which profusely bears 
beautiful flowers annualy under neglect. 




SPIREA VANHOUTTII. 



Spirea OpuMfolia Aurea (Golden Leaved). — An interesting variety of 
distinctly yellow foliage; flowers white. One of the most effective shrubs 
on the lawn. 

Spirea Reveesi. — Covered in Spring with clusters of pure white flow- 
ers. 

Spirea Billardi. — Rose color, blooms nearly all Summer. 

Spirea Prunifolia (Bridal Wreath). — One of the earliest blooming 
kinds. Flowers double white. 

Spirea Bumalda. — A Japanese species of dwarf habit and covered in 
mid-summer and Autumn with bright, rose colored flowers. 

Spirea Thunbergii. — One of the most charming of all low growing 
shrubs. Foliage of fine, feathery appearance, taking beautiful tints in 
Autumn. One of the earliest and freest bloomers. 

Spirea Callosa Alba (Fortune's Dwarf White Spirea). — A white flow- 
ering variety of dwarf, bushy habit; keeps in flower all Summer; a valu- 
able small shrub. 



102 



DWYEE'S GUIDE. 



Caryopteris Mastacanthus (Blue Spirea.) — A neat, compact, new sort, 
with large fragrant blue flower-cluster that keep crowding up plentifully 
from the axils of the leaves, from mid-summer until frost. If killed to the 
ground by frosts the young shoots spring up freely and flower the first 
season. 

Spirea Anthony Waterer. — A fine new dwarf spirea, with large, 
crimson flower corymbs, produced quite abundantly. One of our finest 
shrubs. 

Spirea Callosa. (Fortune's Pink Spirea.) — Bears pink flowers in large, 
flat clusters nearly all Summer. 

Viburnum Plicatum. (Ja- 
pan Snow Ball). — A beautiful 
flowering shrub; the flower clus- 
ters., which are produced all over 
the bush, are spherical in form 
and of the purest white, with 
beautiful crimped, dark green 
foliage. There are many other 
varieties of Snow Ball, but all 
are susceptible to the attacks of 
plant vermim, which curl and 
twist their wood into abnormal 
shapes, making them undesir- 
able for planting. (Viburnum 
Plicatum) is free from the rav- 
ages of this insect and we 
recommend it with confidence. 

Forsythia, Suspensa (Weep- 
ing Golden Bell). — An almost 
evergreen shrub of sprawling ha- 
bit, covered in Spring before the 
leaves appear with handsome 
yellow flowers. Very conspicu- 

JAPANSNOW BALL, OUS. 

Forsythia Viridissima. — Grows upright, has deep green bark and 
leaves and deep yellow flowers. It is one of the very finest of all early 
blooming flowering shrubs. 

Corylus Atropurpurea (Purple Leaved Filbert. — A very conspicuous 
shrub, with large, dark purple leaves; very distinct. 

Eleagnus Longipes (Japan Oleaster). — Beautiful silvery foliage, laden 
with fruit; the bush is highly ornamental and the fact that the leaves 
remain fresh till late Autumn gives it additional value. 

Halesia Tetraptera (Silver Bell). — A beautiful large shrub, with pret- 
ty white bell-shaped flowers in May; it is distinguished by its four winged 
fruit which is from one to two inches long. 

Exochorda Grandiflora (Pearl Bush). — A fine shrub, producing large, 
white flowers in May; one of the finest shrubs of its season. 

Deutzia Crenata. — The beautiful white single-flowered species that 
blooms so lavishly in early June. Preferred by many to the double sorts, 
valuable for backgrounds, specimens or grouping. 

Deutzia Candidissima.— A new and handsome species, with very large 
double flowers so pure white and perfect that they are frequently used 
in "floral pieces. 

Deutzia Hybrida Lemoinei. — A new and elegant cross from D. grac- 




DWYER'S GUIDE. 103 

ilis, as dwarf and free-flowering, but of more upright growth and said to 
be even finer for forcing. 

Deutzia (Pride of Rochester). — A choice new sort that excels in vigor, 
in size of flowers, length of panicles and freedom of bloom. The flowers 
are double, white, tinged outside with pink, and open a week earlier than 
those of other sorts. 

Deutzia Scabra (Roughed-Leaved Deutzia). — Very vigorous; flowers 
white, single, bell-shaped, in small bunches. One of the tallest-growing 
sorts. 

Deutzia Gracilis (Dwarf Deutzia). — The beauty of the family and one 
of the best shrubs in our entire list. It forms a low, round bush, covered 
with small white flowers; valuable for forcing. 

Weigela Candida. — A new, valuable sort that bears large white flow- 
ers profusely in June and continues blooming sparingly until Fall. 

Weigela Van Houttii. — Deep crimson flowers, covering the plant com- 
pletely. 

Weigela Nana Variegata (Dwarf Variegated Weigela). — Dwarf, with 
clearly defined, variegation of green, yellow and pink in its leaves; flow- 
ers delicate rose and pink. Effective and useful. One of the most beau- 
tiful variegated shiubs in cultivation. 

Weigela Rosea. — Bears beautiful rose^colored flowers thickly in 
June. 

Weigela Stelzneri. — Dark red flowers born thickly along the branch- 
es. 

Hydrangea. — There are several varieties of Hydrangea, but we consid- 
er the Hydrangea Paniculata Grandiflora the most reliable for out-door cul- 
ture; it is perfectly hardy and can be grown successfully in the coldest 
locations; it bears a profusion of white flowers which change to pink in 
Autumn; it can be used advantageously for many purposes as single speci- 
mens or for grouping; it is also a very desirable hedge plant. We think 
one of the most enjoyable sights we viewed the past season was a large 
hedge of Hydrangea P. G. It requires severe pruning in Spring, it can 
be cut back to the ground if necessary and will bear a profusion of flow- 
ers the sa ne season. The Hydrangea makes a fine showing planted in 
beds in lots of six and upwards; set the plants four feet apart. 

Prunus, Japonica Flore albo pleno (Double White Almond). — Pro- 
duces beautiful double white flowers in May. 

Prunus, Japonica Rubro pleno (Double Pink Almond). — A beautiful 
small shrub, bearing in the Spring oefore the leaves appear, an abund- 
ance of small, double, rose-like flowers, closely set on twig. 

Lonicera (Marowi). — A vigorous, broad spreading bush, bearing nu- 
merous yellow flowers, followed by crimson fruit, which remains on the 
plant for a long time, giving it a very choice effect. 

Lonicera (Fragrantissima). — Blooms very early in the Spring, some- 
times before the snow disappears. Very valuable for early bloom. 

Berberis Thunbergi (Thunberg's Barberry). — A dwarf spreading spec- 
ies, with small white flowers in May, followed with an abundance of deep 
scarlet berries, which color they maintain all Winter. The foliage in the 
Summer is of a beautiful shade of green, changing to a beautiful reddish 
yellow in Autumn. 

Berberis, Purpurea (Purple Leaved Barberry). — A very desirable 
plant for the la'wn. Foliage of violet purple color, very effective when 
contrasted with the lighter foliage of other plants. 



104 DWYEK'S GUIDE. 

Philadelphus, Coronarus (Mock Orange. — Strong growing, rounded ha- 
bit, rich green foliage. Flowers pure white and very fragrant. 

Philadelphus Foliis Aureis (Golden Mock Orange). — A brilliant little 
shrub, with bright golden leaves, color constant through Summer. Group- 
ed with green, and purple leaved shrubs; it produces fine effects. 

Philadelphus Grandiflora (Large Flowering Syringa).A large shrub, 
with recurved branches laden with large, showy flowers, slightly fra- 
grant. 

Tamarix Africana. — Handsome foliage, upright habit; flowers in 
May. 

Tamarix Chinensis. — A vigorous, upright grower, with delicate foli- 
age of a lively green color; flowers rose colored in September. 

Kalmia Latifolia (American or Mountain Laurel) .A beautiful native 
evergreen shrub, with shining foliage and dense clusters of pink flowers 
in Spring; requires same treatment as the Rhododendron. 

Kalmia Angustifolia. — Has narrower leaves' and darker pink flowers. 

Cornus, Mascula Variegata (Variegated Cornelian Cherry). — The 
variegation of this variety is of pure white. 

Rhodotypus, Kerrioides (White Kerria). — A very ornamental shrub 
from Japan, with handsome foliage and large, white flowers. Last of 
May. Succeeded by numerous small black fruit. One of the hardiest 
shrubs in cultivation. We consider the foliage of this plant the equal in 
beauty of any of the green leaved shrubs. 

Myrica Cerifera (Bayberry). — A low spreading shrub, handsome foli- 
age; small, white berries in Autumn. 

Hamamelis Japonica (Japan Witch Hazel). — A most beautiful shrub, 
with darker leaves and more elegant habit than the American type. It 
makes a choice specimen of low, close growth, and is always attractive. 
The yellow flowers appear in curious shape just before Winter sets in. 

Cydonia Pyrus Japonica (Japan Quince). — The Japan Quince ranks 
among our choicest shrubs. As single shrubs on the lawn they are very 
attractive. Their large, brilliant blossoms are among the first in Spring, 
and they appear in great profusion, covering every branch and twig. The 
foliage is of a bright green and has a leathery appearance. 

Cornus Sanguinea (Red Barked Dogwood). — A strong growing shrub, 
with clusters of fine white flowers ; its blood red bark enlivens either 
Summer or Winter landscape.. Can be used to good effect in grouping. 

Sambucus, Aurea (Golden Elder). — Very desirable for contrasting. 
Foliage of a beautiful golden yellow. 

Ilex Crenata (Japanese Holly). — Hardy Japanese variety with shining 
myrtle-like leaves. . The Hollies are very valuable for landscape work, 
being an evergreen they enliven the dreary appearance of home grounds 
during the Winter months. 

Ilex Opaca (American Holly). — A beautiful evergreen, bearing rea 
berries in great abundance; contrasting finely with the green leaves. 

Ilex Aquifolia (English Holly).— Very similar to the American Holly. 
The leaves not quite so large and growth more compact. 

Mahonia Aquifolia (Holly Leaved Mahonia). — A native species of me- 
dium size, with purplish, shining, prickly leaves and showy, bright yel- 
low flowers in May, succeeded by bluish berries; its handsome deep green 
glossy foliage and neat habit render it very popular for decorative plant- 
ing. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 



105 




ci,ethra alnifolia (Sweet Pepper.) 

Transplants easily and is worthy 



Clethra, Alinfo- 
lia (Sweet Pep- 
per Bush). — A 
small shrub of 
dark green foli- 
age, having a pro- 
fusion of white 
flowers in mid- 
summer, followed 
by clusters of 
deep red berries. 
Very fragrant. 

Prunus, P is- 
sa r d i (Pur p I e 
Plum). — The 
finest purple leav- 
ed tree or shrub. 
The foliage when 
young is crimson, 
turning to deep 
purple in Autumn 
which color it re- 
tains until the 
leaves fall in the 
Winter. Very de- 
sirable for con- 
trasting with oth- 
er trees and 
shrubs. Flowers, 
single, white, cov- 
of a place on every 



ermg the tree, 
lawn. 

Mahonia Japonica. — Large distinct leaves and yellow flowers in May. 
This is one of the prettiest evergreen shrubs that can be planted; attracts 
attention where ever grown. 

THE KUONYMUS. 

The Euonymus are indispensible in the decoration of the lawn on ac- 
count of their varied colored flowers and fruit, also the peculiar form 
and growth of bark which is characteristic of each variety. They are 
perfectly hardy and can be grown on any soil and under any condition of 
exposure. 

Euonymus Atropurpureus. — A tall growing shrub with larger leaves 
than the European, turning to scarlet in Autumn; fruit large, dark red. 

Euonymus Alnifolia. — With broad, glossy green leaves, which turn 
to a purplish red in Autumn; fruit blood red. 

Euonymus Europeus. — Fruit rose colored, which is borne in great 
quantities and remain on the tree a long time. 



HEDGING PLANTS. 



How to Plant. — Trenches should be made for these deep enough to 
suit the requirements of the roots of the stock used. For a single hedge 



106 



DWYEE'S GUIDE. 




row of the California Privet the trench should be two and one-half feet 
wide and twelve inches deep; for the double row hedge of the Privet the* 
trench should be four feet in width and the same depth as for the single 

row. This double row hedge 
makes a fine showing and 
should be used when our 
means permit it. When 
fully grown the top of this 
hedge will be six or seven 
feet in width. In any case 
the plants should be set one 
foot apart in the row, loose 
soil placed in the bottom 
and after the roots are cover- 
ed the soil should be well 
treaded and firmed about 
them. The other hedging 
plants hereafter recom- 
mended, such as the Bar- 
beries, Japan Quince, Althea, 
Osage Orange and Buck- 
thorn, should be treated in 
the same way as the Cali- 
fornia Privet. 

When to Plant.— Any of 
the hedging plants above 
mentioned can be planted during the months of March, April and the 
forepart of May, in the Spring, and in the months of October and No- 
vember, in the Fall — one time being as good as the other providing the 
stock is not too far advanced. 

Fertilizer. — After the hedge is planted it is desirable and beneficial 
to cover the ground about the plants with a liberal mulching of horse 
manure and about June first incorporate it with the soil. 

Prune Back fully two-thirds of the top growth when the plants are 
first set, after which annual pruning is necessary. You can keep the 
hedge in any desired height and shape with the judicious use of the 
shears. 

California Privet <Ligustrum OvalifoMum). — This magnificent strong 
growing desirable plant has become justly popular for the past few years 
and is now used almost exclusively for hedging purposes. The Privet 
has perhaps more in its favor, all things considered, than any other single* 
shrub or plant. It is, of course, particularly adaptable for the construc- 
tion of hedges, and is especially valuable for this work. It is inexpen- 
sive, hardy, easy to grow, succeeding admirably in most all soils, under 
the partial shade of trees, and under neglected cultural conditions. Yet 
while this is true, we know of no other tree or plant that will respond* 
better and more satisfactorily to proper care and treatment. When this 
is granted it, the Privet will give astonishing and pleasing results. It is 
practically an evergreen, retaining its foliage for nine months of the year. 
By planting in sheltered positions and a heavy mulching of manure the 
Privet will not become defoliated during the entire year. We have a 
specimen on our place which has retained its luxuriant foliage during the 
past ten Winters and we enjoy it very much. The Privet can be used 
advantageously for many other purposes, such as clumping singly of itself 
and with other shrubs. It is also valuable as a screen plant to hide un- 



DWYEKS GUIDE. 107 

sightly outbuildings, fences and the like; the great point in its favor is 
its quick growth, making from three to five feet of new wood each sea 
son. By severe pruning when first planted we force branches to grow 
close to the ground; a very necessary factor in a perfect Privet bush. 

Its panicles of small white flowers that appear in mid-summer are' 
quite interesting. 

In Summer it is covered with rich, leathery green foliage, in mid- 
winter changing to a deep purple, making a very pleasing contrast. with 
the pure white snow. 

Berberis, Purpurea (Purple Leaved Barberry). — A very desirable 
plant for a hedge. Foliage of violet purple. 

Berberis Thunbergi (Thunberg's Barberry). — A dwarf spreading spe- 
cies, with small white flowers in May, followed with an abundance of 
deep scarlet berries, which color they maintain all winter. 

Cydonia Pyrus Japonica (Japan Quince). — The Japan Quince ranks 
among our choicest shrubs as an ornamental hedge plant. 

Hibiscus Syriacus (Althea). — These shrubs can be sheared into any 
desired shape, and are very showy, either when the entire hedge is of 
one color or when assorted colors are combined. Can also be employed as 
ornaments on the lawn either singly or grouped with other shrubs. 

Madura Aurantiaca (Osage Orange). — The cheapest hedge plant of 
all. Makes a strong, durable fence; though not so ornamental as other 
kinds, yet when it is closely trimmed it is quite attractive. 

Rhamnus Catharticus (Buckthorn) .—A fine hardy hedge plant of 
European origin. It has dark green foliage, white flowers and small black 
•fruit. 

EVERGREEN HEDGING TREES. 

The three species that follow below are the best of all the evergreens 
for Hedges. They should be planted in single rows, in trenches four feet 
in width and fifteen inches deep; the trees should be three feet apart 
and should be pruned back one-third at the time of planting. 

When to Plant. — Evergreens can be planted in the months of April, 
May and June in the Spring and in August and September in the Autumn. 
Be sure at all times to protect the roots from the weather. Use manure 
about the plants the same as recommended for the decidious hedg- 
ing plants. Evergreens can be pruned to suit the individual taste, 
they are desirable for Hedges and we can recommend them. Furtnei 
along in this work the author will have more to say about these beautitul 
trees. 

Thuya, Occidental is (American Arbor Vitae). — One of the most de- 
sirable evergreen hedge plants, of very attractive appearance. Although 
a fast grower, it can be kept trimmed to any height desired. 

Picea Excelsa, (Norway Spruce).— A popular variety. Makes a very 
dense, compact hedge. Very desirable for a firm hedge to take the place 
of a fence. 

Picea Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce). — Very fine, graceful and orna- 
metal, with fine, smooth, rich foliage, making a beautiful hedge. 



108 DWYER'S GUIDE 

RHODODENDRONS. 



This is universally acknowledged to be the finest and most showy 
hardy evergreen plant grown. The broad evergreen foliage, with its 
glossy richness would alone entitle it to the first rank, but when it is 
covered in June with clusters of flowers large enough for a bouquet, and 
each variety naving its own color, the term superb fitly describes its ap- 
pearance. They can be planted singly upon the lawn, and are also very 
effective when planted in masses of one or two dozen. The Rhododend- 
rons are heavy feeders and should not be planted too closely. For their 
success a light garden soil is the best; if the soil is clay let it be lighten- 
ed with sand, leaf mold, rotten sod or surface soil which has been heavily 
manured the year before — all are beneficial. It is a very great mistake 
to plant under shade trees; the foliage will be of a darker green, but will 
not flower so freely. A great many of the hardy sorts have a tendency 
to set too many buds and while this is an excellent quality, it is better not 
to let all the buds flower, but to pinch off some of them, according to the 
age and vigor of the plant. The seed vessels should also be broken off 
immediately after flowering, to insure a vigorous growth. We name here- 
after a list of varieties most desirable for planting in our American cli- 
mate. 

Plant in holes three feet in diameter and one foot deep whether you 
plant in rows or in clumps. Set the plants five feet apart every way; 
cover the ground around the plants with manure during the winter 
months and protect the tops with evergreen boughs or straw. 

Album Elegans. — Very large, white. 

Brandyanum. — Bright cherry. 

Candidissimum. — Pure white. 

Everestianum. — Rosy, lilac, crimped. 

Giganteum. — Large, rosy, crimson. 

Gloriosum Waterer's — Large blush. 

Grandiflorjum. — Rosy crimson. 

Purpureum Elegans.— Fine purple. 

J. R. Trumpy. — Late, rosy crimson. 

Herbert Parsons. — Lilac blush, strong grower. 

H. H. Hunnewell. — Very dark rich crimson. 

H. W. Sargent. — Crimson, enormous truss. 

Jas. Bateman. — Fine scarlet, splendid habit. 

John Walier. — Rich crimson. 

Kettledrum. — Deep red, very late. 

Kissena. — Lavender, crimped petals, early. 

Lady Armstrong. — Pale rose, very spotted. 

Lady Clermont. — Rosy scarlet, blotched with black. 

Lilacina. — Flushing seedling, lilac blush. 

Mabel Parsons. — Rose blush, fine truss. 

Maximum Album. — Large white. 

Superbum. — Large rose, best of the Maximums. 

Michael Waterer. — Very beautiful, late crimson. 



DWYER'S GUIDE 



109 



Mrs. Holford. — Rich salmon, quite unique. 

Mrs. Milner. — Rich crimson, very fine. 

Minnie. — Blush white, with large chocolate spots. 

Amarantinora. — Large light rose color, distinct. 

Atrosanguine.um. — Crimson scarlet. 

Bicolor. — Rose with white center, early. 

Blanch Superbe. — Pure white. 

Brayanum. — Vivid crimson, very showy. 

Caractacus. — Rich purplish crimson. 




RHODODENDRON WITH BAI^I, OF EARTH. 

Chancellor.. .Purplish rose. 

Chas. Bagley. — Cherry red, fine truss and habit. 

Chas. Dickens.— Dark scarlet. 

Chas. Sumner. — Rose and light purple. 

Curieanum. — Dark rosy lalac, large. 

Daisy Rand. — Deep crimson. 

Delicatissimum. — White and blush. 

Dr. Torrey. — Flushing seedling, rose, early. 



110 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



THE HARDY BORDER, 



There is perhaps nothing so beautiful and valuable in the landscape 
and nothing so easily and cheaply obtained as a border of ornamental' 
shrubs. Be your place large or small, there is always an opportunity to 
enrich and beautify the grounds with the judicious selection of these 
grateful and beautiful flowering plants. A border of this kind once 
planted and established lasts for nearly a life time. Comparatively 
speaking, the first cost is the only cost and the little necessary pruning 
of these shrubs each year is easily and cheaply accomplished; in fact, it 
is a great pleasure to those who love nature to attend to and supply the 
little wants of these generous shrubs. The author has several hardy 
b o r ders of flowering 
shrubs at his own home 
and perhaps gets more 
pleasure, satisfaction and 
real value from their pro- 
duct than from anything 
else in the ornamental 
line. There is not a sin- 
gle day in the season from 
early April until Novem- 
ber when it is not possi- 
ble for his wife or chil- 
dren to cut beautiful 
flowers and foliage from 
these borders. The prin- 
cipal border was planted 
fourteen years ago along 
in front of his place on 
the public highway. It 
seems more beautiful and 
the plants more grateful 
each succeeding year. 
This border is some three 
hundred feet in length 
and is planted with 
fl o w e r in g shrubs that 
bloom continuously 
throughout the entire sea- 
son. During the growing 
season it is the admira- 
tion of all his friends, and 
favorable comments can 
be heard most any day 
from the passers-by. The 
labor and care of keeping 
this border in proper con- 
dition costs less than ten 
dollars per year, perhaps 

for the ordinary home it would not be necessary to have as long a 
planting as this, but even though the planting be reduced fully one-half 







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HYDRANGEA P. G., GROWN AS A STANDARD. 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. HI 

or more, the same general results can be had. In planing for the Hardy 
Border great care should be exercised in the selection of not only excep- 
tionally hardy, desirable shrubs, but also of those that will bloom reg- 
ularly and profusely throughout the season. The writer has thought best 
to aid the reader in this selection. About the first shrub to bloom in the 
Spring is the Bush Honeysuckle (Fragrantissima). . This is often in bloom 
before the snow disappears and is closely followed by that beautiful 
shrub, the Japan Quince, the blossoms covering every branch and twig. 
Then comes the White and Pink Almonds, producing double flowers be- 
fore the leaves appear. Next we have the Thunbergi Spirea, blooming 
profusely. Then the Sweet Shrub, the flowers and wood being 
fragrant, closely followed by the Weeping Golden Bell, which produces 
yellow flowers in great profusion. The Japan Snow Ball blooms 
about this time with its large and beautiful clusters of white flowers, fol- 
lowed by the Pearl Bush, producing large, white flowers along in the mid- 
dle of May, and Silver Bell, another beautiful shrub with bell-shaped 
flowers. Then we have that beautiful family of Spireas, such as Bumaldi, 
Prunifolia, Van Houttii and others, that cover the entire season of bloom, 
and the Weigela in many charming varieties, all good. The Mock Orange 
is charming with its rich green foliage and white fragrant flow- 
ers, followed by Mountain Laurel, that beautiful native ever- 
green shrub with clusters of pink flowers; next is the Japan 
Oleaster with its beautiful silver foliage laden with fruit. Then 
we have that magnificent old fashioned family of Altheas, com- 
monly called Rose of Sharon, which we have in all the 
colors, white, pink, crimson, blue and a host of other shades, each one 
seeming more beautiful than the other. We have that magnificent, grateful 
Hydrangea, Paniculata Grandiflora, the best of all Hydrangeas; this bears 
a profusion of white flowers one foot in length from mid-summer unitl 
along in November when the flowers change to pink color; they can be 
then cut and brought to the house and will last pretty well through the 
Winter. All these species of shrubs that I have specified are hardy, 
reliable, desirable and valuable. For full descriptions of each you 
are referred to pages 100-106 of this work. Under the heading of Hardy 
Ornamental trees we give instructions about planting these shrubs. They 
need annual pruning; it is best to keep them well headed back each 
year, studying the individual characteristics of the plants in performing 
this work. In forming a border we should set our shrubs six feet apart 
every way, which will give them an opportunity to develop properly and 
admit the light and air; thus giving them every advantage for best 
results. In the arrangement of this border we should avoid any prear- 
ranged or studied plan, locating the different species promiscuously 
around the border; in this way we are more apt to bring about the nat- 
ural order of things, and our border will be correspondingly more unique, 
and consequently more beautiful and appreciated. 

Where it is impossible to establish a border such as above, we can 
get very good and satisfactory results by grouping a few of the hardy 
shrubs together, and when we can make two or three of these groups 
we can work in a charming list of hardy flowering shrubs that will give 
us very gratifying results. 



EVERGREEN TREES. 



Evergreen trees produce an effect in ornamental planting not to be 
obtained in any other wey. It is inexpressible how much they add to the 



112 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



beauty and comfort of a country residence at all seasons of the year, par- 
ticularly in the winter months, when other trees are stripped of their foli- 
age. The advantages resulting from the planting of Evergreens are many 
and a most beautiful effect may be obtained by the judicious arrangement 
of varieties of different colors that will harmonize with the deciduous 
and flowering trees and shrubs you may have planted on your place. 
No one can help admiring the cheerful and comfortable appearance of the 
homes of those who have improved their grounds with the planting of 




COLORADO BLUE SPRUCE. 

"Evergreens. In no other tree is so great care required in digging and 
transplanting as in the Evergreen. The great loss of so many Conifers 
is caused by exposing the rcots to the sun and wind at times of removal 
and setting. Great care should be exercised in these matters if we ex- 
pect good results. Evergreens require to be handled and planted very 
carefully as they are extremely sensitive to injury by drying; their roots 
should never get dry while out of the ground. 

Picea Excelsa (Norway Spruce).— A popular variety. Makes a very 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 113 

dense, compact hedge. Very desirable for a firm hedge to take the place 
of a fence; it can also be used as a specimen tree on the lawn. 

Picea Alaba Aurea Variegata (Golden Variegated Spruce.)— Medium 
growth, very handsome as a specimen tree, the foliage giving a singular- 
ly soft beautiful effect. 

Picea Pungens (Colorado Blue Spruce). — One of the hardiest and 
beautiful of all the spruces, and is rapidly taking a prominent place 
among the evergreens. It is of compact habit, with an abundance of foli- 
age of a very handsome bluish tint; retaining its handsome color through- 
out the entire year. Very valuable for grouping purposes and should have 
a prominent place on every lawn, Without doubt the choicest of all ever- 
green species. We can with the aid of this very handsome tree attain 
many beautiful effects on the home ground. It is perfectly hardy and a 
rapid grower, unlike many other evergreens it is an ornament when quite 
young and small. 

Picea Elata (Elata Spruce). — Strong growth, throwing out and up- 
ward long branches in a wide spreading grotesque form. A singular and 
picturesque variety. 

Picea Orientalis (Oriental Spruce). — Slow growth but tall, compact, 
straight and spiral, with deep shadows; dark, small shining green foliage. 
Very hardy. One of the finest of all evergreens. 

Picea Alba (White Spruce). — Compact pyramidal form, of greater 
symmetry than that of the Norway Spruce. Very hardy. 

Picea Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce). — Very fine, graceful and orna- 
mental, with fine smooth, rich foliage, making a beautiful hedge; it is es- 
pecially graceful. 

Abies Balsamea (Balsam Fir). — A very erect, regular pyramidal 
tree, with dark green, sombre foliage. Grows rapidly and is very hardy. 

Abies Nordmanniana (Nordmann's Silver Fir). — This majestic Fir, 
from the Crimean mountains, is of symmetrical form, vigorous and quite 
hardy. Its foliage is massive, dark green, shining above and slightly 
glaucous beneath, rendering it a very handsome tree throughout the year. 
Considered here and in Europe as one of the finest of the Silver Leaved 
varieties. 

Abies Pichta (Pitch Silver Fir).— From the mountains of Siberia. A 
medium sized tree, of compact, conical growth, with dark green foliage. 
Fine and hardy. 

Pinus Ponderoso (Heavy Wooded Pine). — This is also a noble tree, 
found abundantly on the northwest coast of America and California. It is 
perfectly hardy here. It is a rapid grower, the leaves 8 to 10 inches in 
length, and of a silvery green color. 

Pinus, Austriaca (Austrian Pine). — A very remarkably robust, hardy, 
spreading tree; leaves long, stiff and dark green; growth rapid; valuable 
for this country. 

Pinus Strobus (White Pine). — The most ornamental of all our native 
pines. Foliage light, delicate and silvery green. Flourishes in poorest of 
soils; valuable for grouping or as a specimen tree. 

Pinus Helvetica (Swiss Stone). — A large growing variety of the pre- 
ceding, hardy and effective in landscape work. 

Pinus Cembra. — Perfectly erect and regularly branched from the 
ground to the top. Thick dark green foliage. 

Pinus Sylvestris (Scotch Pine). — A fine, robust, rapid growing tree, 
with stout, erect shoots and silvery green foliage. 



114 DWYERS GUIDE. 

Taxus Adpressa (Short Leaved Yew). — Japan. Low, spreading, 
bushy form, small, dark green shining leaves, branches numerous and 
densely covered with foliage. Hardy and very choice. 

Taxus Baccata (Common European Yew). — Large bush or tree, slow 
growing, with short stem and very bushy head; densely branched; thick- 
ly covered with drooping, sombre green leaves. Suitable for clipping in- 
to artificial forms. Sometimes browned in Winter. 

Taxus Elegantissima (Elegant Yew). — Light straw color, especially 
in June; more of a dark green toward Fall; browns sometimes in Winter, 
but scarcely ever kills. Very rich and effective in color. 

Taxus Aurea (Golden Yew). — Of a rich Golden hue. Its color in June 
is unsurpassed by any variegated form among evergreens. 

Abies Inverta (Weeping Norway Spruce). — The foliage is larger and 
brighter than that of the species, the lateral branches as drooping as a 
Willows; as a specimen tree it is always odd and interesting. 

Thuya, Occidentalis (American Arbor Vitae). — One of the most desir- 
able evergreen hedge plants, of every attractive appearance. Although 
a fast grower, it can be kept trimmed to any desired height. 



DWARF EVERGREENS. 



Why They Should be Grown on Home Grounds. 

These Dwarf Evergreens, quite all of them, too, are both desirable 
and interesting in the furnishing and adornment of the home grounds. 
In fact, we cannot get the best effect and pleasing results without them. 
We, of course, first need the large growing deciduous trees and ever- 
greens for the frame work of our grounds, but for many little nooks and 
corners, as well as for the trimmings and finishing touches, the Dwarf 
Evergreens are quite indispensable, as we cannot get harmonizing ef- 
fects without them. Many of these Dwarf Evergreens, like the Retinos- 
poros, Pines, and Arbor Vitaes, are most beautiful of themselves. This is 
particularly so of the Pines and Retinosporos which can often be planted 
singly or in clumps to good advantage. 

However, one of the grandest sights to behold is the proper selection 
of a quantity of the many different Dwarf Evergreens "grouped together," 
and so arranged that the varied characteristics of each individual mem- 
ber of the Dwarf Evergreen family is exposed in the best and most at- 
tractive manner. While collectively, with their many variegated sizes, 
shapes, forms and colors, they form such an admirable contrast that we 
at once become interested in them. On short acquaintance, they become 
our friends, then a companionship is formed, finally we fall in love with 
them — a love that does not "wane," as it does with many other pleasures 
of life, with increasing age and infirmities, rather the love that grows firm- 
er and stronger for the beauties of nature as we grow old. Never will 
we forget the words of our honored and lamented President McKinley to 
the attending nurse while nearing his end on his death bed at Buffalo: 
"Please do not lower the shades I want to look out upon the beautiful 
trees." This, one of his last expressions, served merely to strengthen 
the opinions — if such a thing were needed — of the American people, re- 
gardless of political differences or affiliations, that he was a truly good 
and great man in every way. 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 115 

How to Plant. — Dig the holes and plant in the same general way as 
for the standard evergreens. In clumping and grouping they can be 
planted from five to twelve feet apart. For illustration, the Junipers and 
Arbor Vitaes can be planted five feet apart, while the Retlnosporos and 
Pines should be twelve feet apart. Dwarf Evergreens need not be pruned 
back when planting, and in fact, need very little pruning at any time, ex- 
cept when we wish to form them into an unnatural shape, then we can 
prune accordingly and without fear of injury. The proper time to trim 
back evergreens of all kinds is when our knife is sharp. 

BEST VARIETIES OP DWARF EVERGREENS FOR 
GENERAL PLANTING. 

Thuya Globosa (Globe Headed Arbor Vitae). — Very dense and dwarf, 
forming a round ball without any trimming or training, distinct, hardy 
and popular. 

Thuya Hoveyi (Hovey's Golden Arbor Vitae). — Of dwarf habit, globu- 
lar form, dense growth, foliage of lively yellowish green. 

Thuya Oriental is Aurea (Geo. Peabody Arbor Vitae). — Very hardy, 
beautiful and showy, of dwarf, compact habit, foliage of a rich, bright 
golden color. 

Thuya Siberica (Siberian Arbor Vitae). — Exceedingly hardy, of rather 
slow growth, conical form, compact and symmetrical. 

Pinus Rotundata (Dwarf Mountain Pine). — A handsome, globular va- 
riety that forms a bush 4 to 6 feet in diameter, clothed with a dense mass 
of soft, silvery foliage. 

Pinus Mugho (Dwarf Mugho Pine). — A very distinct species; foliage 
short, stiff and twisted and thickly distributed over the branches. Does 
not grow tall, but spreads over the ground. This and the Dwarf Moun- 
tain can be grown in large tubs with good success, and can be removed 
from the lawn to the house in Winter. 

Retinospora Plumosa Aurea (Golden Japanese Cypress). — This is a 
r-'ost interesting family of evergreens of dwarf habit, and particularly 
suited to small places. The Golden Retinosporo is one of the hand- 
somest evergreens that can be planted in the lawn. . 

Retinospora Squarrosa. — An exquisite Japanese form, with steel col- 
ored foliage, which is very fine and feathery; it displays many shades of 
color during the season and is largely used and can be closely pruned in- 
to any shape, associating with all the other dwarf evergreens. 

Pinus Compacti (Compact White Pine). — A dwarf round-headed tree, 
with numerous branches and soft feathery foliage. A charming variety. 

Abies Pictita (Siberian Silver Fir). — Medium size, leaves of darker 
green than ordinary Silver Firs, very soft and rich to the touch. One of 
the hardiest and most valuable of Firs. 

Juniperus Hibernica (Irish Juniper). — Very erect and tapering in its 
growth, foming a column of deep green foliage. Very desirable for lawn 
planting. Its beauty and hardiness make it a general favorite. 

Juniperus Prostrata. (Trailing Juniper). — A beautiful native species 
of odd, trailing growth. It is densely branched and forms wide, thick 
masses of delicate foliage. Useful for picturesque hillside planting. 

Juniperus Suecica (Swedish Juniper). — Similar to the Irish Juniper, 
but a lighter golden green; forms an especially pretty and compact little 
column. 



116 DWYER'S GUIDE. 

HARDY HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES. 




It is almost impossible to complete the 
adornment of the lawn without planting a 
bed of the Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals. Bloom- 
ing as they do at intervals from June to Sep- 
tember adds materially to their great 
value in the landscape. It is not neces- 
sary to be a professional to successfully cul- 
tivate this class of roses, the after culture 
being very simple ; most any soil will do for 
the Rose, but it must be well drained. In 
preparing the Rose garden be cautious to 
have the soil well spaded to the depth of 
eighteen inches and thoroughly incorporat- 
ed with one-fifth its bulk of good decompos- mks. john laing. 
ed stable manure — cow or horse manure, or 

both mixed. We should have a deep loose soil for them to take their 
nourishment from. A grave mistake, quite frequently made in Rose plant- 
ing is setting them too close together, and In doing we do not allow 
them sufficient soil from which to feed, consequently we get a very weak 
and spindling growth with insufficient organizable matter to set flower 
buds; at the same time we should always remember that the Rose re- 
quires sun and air, therefore do not plant them so close together that, 
when they are covered with their luxuriant foliage we exclude the sun 
and prevent a free circulation of air. We recommend to plant the Hardy 
Hybrids three feet apart each way. Keep the soil cultivated during the 
Summer months, more especially during a protracted drought; frequent 
loosening of the soil creates moisture. It is impossible for us to say 
what shape of Rose beds is best to arrange; this must in all cases be 
goverened by the surrounding landscape and individual taste, but no mat- 
ter what form of bed you may decide to plant the effect and pleasure will 
be equaly as great. 

The proper method of pruning the Rose must be determined by the 
grower. In a general way we might say a good rule to follow is to keep 
each individual bush in its own peculiar form of growth; we can aid 
nature, but we must not try to change it. Pruning should be done in the 
Spring as soon as the freezing weather is over, cutting back at least two- 
thirds of the previous year's growth and at the same time removing any 
decayed wood which may be on the bush. During the Summer months 
cut out all weak sprouts which may appear and remove all imperfectly 
developed buds, thereby infusing all the vitality of the parent plant into 
the remaining bloom. Our experience in growing Roses, has taught us in 
order to keep our bushes in a healthy condition (quite neces- 
sary for the perfect development of bloom), we must spray. Having ex- 
perimented with several spraying mixtures, we have had best results from 
a mixture of two pounds of whale oil soap to five gallons of water, which 
enabled us to combat successfully insects and fungous growth. We ad- 
vise its use just as the buds are swelling and when in full leaf. If you 
notice insects during the Summer, spray again. We want to impress our 
readers with the necessity of getting the mixture on the under side of the 
foliage; this is where the mischievious little insects begin their work. 



DWYERS GUIDE. 



117 



Mulching the Rose bed in the Fall is quite frequently neglected by the 
ordinary grower. This should not be so. By mulching the bed with good 
stable manure we keep the roots warm and insure a growth of wood and 
flowers the following season. As soon as the ground is in condition for 
working we can spade this mulching in the soil which will serve as a ferti- 
lizer. Protecting the Roses with straw is not absolutely necessary, but 
we consider it time and money well spent in doing so. Always have them 




PROTECTING THE ROSES FOR WINTER. 



receive a nip of frost before covering, they will be benefitted by it. The 
proper way to straw the bush is shown in illustration on this page. A man 
•can protect a large bed in a short time. The description of Roses is clas- 
sed in the following manner: 

Color. — The prevailing shade in the most perfect development of the 
flower. 

Semi-Double. — With 2 to 4 rows of petals. Double. — Having more 
than 4 rows of petals, but which show the stamens when fully blown. 
Full. — When the stamens are hid. 

Cupped. — Inner petals shorter than the outer ones, the latter stand 
erect and are generally somewhat incurved. 

Globular. — Outer petals are concave with convex edges, folding richly 
one about the other tapering from the center. 

Flat. The surface of the flower is level or nearly even, and all the 
petals are exposed to view. 



118 DWYEB'S GUIDE. 

BEST VARIETIES FOR GENERAL PLANTING. 

Baroness Rothschild. — Deep rose, white tinted; very large and cup 
form; free bloomer; very fragrant. No rose bed is complete without it. 

Mrs. John Laing. — Soft pink; large and fine form; produced on strong 
stems. 

Paul Neyron. — Deep rose color; good tough foliage; wood rather 
smooth. We ask special attention to this grand rose. The flowers are im- 
mense. 

Alfred Colomb. — Bright carmine, very large and fine form. 

Madame Alfred Rougemont. — An excellent white rose; very hardy and 
vigorous. 

Madame Chas Wood. — Reddish crimson; large handsome flowers free 
bloomers. Especially fine for bedding in masses. 

Ulrich Brunner. — Bright cherry red; very large and full; strong 
grower. 

Giant of Battles. — Has stood the test for over fifty years. It bears 
large, double, bright crimson flowers. 

Gen. Jacqueminot. — This reliable old rose is too well-known to be given 
any lengthy description. Years of endeavor have failed to find a variety 
to surpass this grand old rose. Flowers very double and bright crim- 
son. 

American Beauty. — This is perhaps the grandest and best known rose. 
It is a bushy grower, free bloomer; color, a rich, rosy crimson, and beau- 
tifully veined. 

Coquette Des Alpes. — Large, pure white flowers sometimes tinged with 
pale blush; very hardy and beautiful. 

Dinsmore. — One of the finest bloomers. Highly recommended for 
garden planting on account of its hardiness and vigorous growth. Flow- 
ers are large and double; rich scarlet; very fragrant. 

Louis Vanhoutte. — Brilliant vinous crimson; large, full and fragrant. 
An excellent sort. 

Madame Masson. — We think it is one of the very finest roses in exis- 
tence for garden cultivation; color, clear bright rose; distinct and charm- 
ing. 

Margaret Dickson. — This is unquestionably the finest Hybrid Per- 
petual white rose yet introduced. 

Maria Rady. — Clear bright red, large, full flowers; fragrant. 

Pius the Ninth. — Bright purplish red, changing to violet; very large 
and full; one of the best. 

President Lincoln. — Dark crimson; a most prolific bloomer; hardy 
and good grower. 

La France. — One of the most beautiful constant blooming Hybrid Per- 
petual Roses. The flowers and buds are of immense size and specially 
fine form; a lovely shade of peach bloom changing to rose, deliciously 
fragrant. It commences to bloom soon after planting and continues all 
Summer to offer its magnificent flowers. 

Captain Christy. — Light salmon, flesh color; large and fine form, free 
bloomer. 

Anna De Diesbach. — This superb variety is of a clear carmine color, 
large full and cupped. 

Marchioness of Londonderry. — Flowers of great size, measuring five 




DWYER'S GUIDE. 119 

inches across, perfectly formed and carried on stout stems. Color, ivory 
white; free flowering; highly perfumed. 

Caroline de Sansal. — A lovely pale, flesh colored rose. 

Her Majesty. — An English rose of the best type; fragrant. 

Annie Wood. — Vermillion; very fragrant. 

Madame Plantier.— Not a Hybrid Per- 
petual Rose, but perfectly hardy. One of 
the best white roses and should be among 
every collection. 

Magna Charta. — Large, full and globu- 
lar. Bright pink flowers. Can be relied up- 
on as a standard sort. Very fragrant. 

John Hopper. — Rosy crimson, back of 
the Petal lilac. Large and full and one of 
Ihe best roses. 

Prince Camille de Rohan. — Deep vel- 
vety crimson; large, moderaely full. A 
splendid rose. 

Fisher Holmes. — Deep glowing crim- 
son; large, moderately full, and of fine im- 
magna charta. bricated form. A superb rose. 

Madame Joly. — Rose color, medium 
size; fragrant and good shape. 

Madame Joseph Desbois. — Flesh white, shaded with salmon rose; 
very large, well formed; very vigorous. A superb rose. 

Madame Victor Verdier— Carmine crimson; large, full, very fragrant; 
excellent. 

Marchioness of Duffe.rin. — Large, beautifuly rosy pink, suffused with 
yellow at base of petals. 

Madame Gabriel Luizet — Pink, distinct, very large, cupped shape. 

Baron de Bonstetten. — Rich velvety maroon; large, full. A splendid 
sort. 

Alphonse Soupert — Large, very handsome and showy; bright rose 
color. A fine rose. 

General Washington.— Bright red with crimson shade, large, flat 
form. 

Marshal P. Wilder.— Flowers large, semi-globular, full, well formed; 
color, cherry carmine. 

Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford. — Color deep rosy pink, outer petals 
shaded with pale flesh; flowering from early Summer until late in the 
Autumn. 

Jubilee.— It is the finest dark red, hardy garden rose yet introduced. 

Clio. — This variety is of a very vigorous growth. Flowers flesh color 
freely produced. 

Gloire Lyonnaise. — This grand rose is a pale shade of chamois or sal- 
mon yellow. The flowers have all the beauty of Tea Roses. 



120 DWYEKS GUIDE. 



TEA AND HYBRID TEA ROSES. 



This class of roses can be wintered safely. All that is necessary is 
to give them the same protection as the Hardy Hybrids. 

The Tea Rose may be well taken as a synonym for all that is delicate- 
ly beautiful. What refinement of color, what subdued yet powerful frag- 
rance do they possess! They may justly be called the sweetest of all 
roses. The flowers, many of them, are large and very delicate in their 
shades of colors, such as white, straw, salmon and various tints of rose 
combined with these. While as a rule they are inferior to the Hybrid 
Perpetuals in brilliancy of color and fullness of flower, the distinction be- 
tween the varieties is equally marked, and for bouquets and cut flowers 
they greatly excel all other classes. Like other tender roses their flow- 
ers improve in quality as the season advances, and reach perfection in 
Autumn. In judging the merits of a Tea Rose we do not always con- 
sider fullness of flowers a requisite. A Hybrid Perpetual is nothing if not 
at least moderately full, but some of our most valued Teas have but 
few petals, and are comparatively single. 

Clothilde Soupert. — Medium size; very double and beautifully imbri- 
cated like an aster; produced in clusters; pearly white with rosy lake 
centers; of easy culture. One of the most valuable of recent introduction. 

Meteor. — Rich, dark, velvety crimson, retaining its color well; a con- 
stant bloomer, healthy, with no tendency to mildew; admirable for forc- 
ing. 

Bride. — A sport from Catharine Mermet. Pure white, large, fine 
form, very fragrant, free bloomer, admirably adapted for forcing. 

Bridesmaid. — A new sort which has proved a valuable acquisition; it 
is a sport of Mermet and is similar to that admirable variety in every re- 
spect, save in color, it being a deeper and clearer pink. There is no 
question as to the value of this introduction. 

Catherine Mermet. — Bright flesh color, with the same peculiar silvery 
lustre possessed by La France; large, full, and of beautiful form; when 
the flowers expand they yield a delightful perfume; decidedly one of the 
finest Teas. 

Kaiserin Augusta. — An extra fine white variety faintly blended with 
cream color; very large, full and double, almost perfect in form and it 
continues beautiful even when fully expanded. Its fragrance is a combi- 
nation of tea and magnolia, and is very delightful and distinct from that 
of any other variety. Beautiful glossy foliage; a vigorous grower and very 
free flowering, blooming at every shoot. 

White Maman Cochet. — A sport from that grand sort, Maman Cochet, 
with which it is identical in every respect but color. It is a beautiful 
snow white, somtimes tinged with the faintest of blush. An extraordin- 
ary rose. 

Perle des Jardins. — Clear yellow, free bloomer, very fragrant, one of 
the best of the Teas. 



DWYEKS GUIDE. 



121 



RAMBLER ROSES. 



This is the most remarkable group of Roses introduced for many- 
years. They are varieties of extraordinary value, notably the Crimson and 
Yellow Ramblers. Among climbing roses these are most beautiful for 
the adornment of pillars, trellis, arbors, or for covering porches or the 
ends of houses. In their blooming season they are fairly covered with 
lovely flowers, and they are very much valued by all planters of roses, be- 
ing perfectly hardy and of vigorous growth. Their successful culture of- 
fers no obstacles even to the inexperienced ; always free from disease and 
insects. 

Crimson Rambler. — This is 
truly a remarkable and unlooked 
for novelty among Hardy Climb- 
ing Roses. It is a vigorous, rapid 
grower, making shoots 10 to 20 
feet in height in one season. 
When grown as a bush it is 
equally desirable. In Japan, 
where it originated, Crimson 
Rambler is known as the Cherry 
Rose, so bright are its flowers. 
No yard or garden should be 
without the Crimson Rambler. 

Yellow Rambler.— This is the 
only hardy Yellow ClimbingRose 
in cultivation. It is perhaps a 
more important introduction 
than its renowned relative, Crim- 
son Rambler, with which it is 
identical, with the exception of 
the flowers, which are deep gold- 
en yellow. 

White Rambler. — This is a 
splendid rose; distinct and valu- 
able; the flowers are pure white 
and very fragrant; they are 
borne in clusters, and a well es- 
tablished plant in bloom makes 
a striking appearance. 
Pink Rambler. — Possesses the 
same valuable features found in the White Rambler, except in color of 
flower, which is a brilliant light carmine; perfectly hardy. 




CRIMSON RAMBLER. 



HARDY RUNNING OR CLIMBING ROSES. 



When it is desired to cover walls, unsightly buildings, etc., with roses, 
none will be found to do this work so efficiently as this class of rose. 

Baltimore Belle. — Pale blush, becoming nearly white; compact and 



122 



DWYEK'S GUIDE. 



though rapid, is 



fine; the blooms are produced in clusters, the growth, 
slender and graceful. 

Queen of the Prairies. — Bright, rosy red, frequently with white stripes, 
fairly covered with flowers in early Summer, and is one of the best climb- 
ers for any purpose. 

Seven Sisters. — A small blush rose, tinged with various shades of 
pink. 

Empress of China. — Without exception one of the most valuable and 
popular roses now offered; the color is soft dark red, changing to lighter 
red or pink, like the color found in an apple blossom. 

White Marechal Niel. — The fame of this rose is too well known to 
need any great praise; it is the exact counterpart of its parent, Marechal 
Niel, save tne color of its flowers, which are pure white; totally distinct. 

Dorothy Perkins was or- 
iginated from seed of the 
variety Rosa Wichuraiana, 
hybridized with pollen from 
that grand old rose, Mme. 
Gabriel Luizet. The seed 
parent was chosen for its 
hardiness and vigorous habit 
of growth, the* pollen parent 
for its beautiful color. 

The plants are perfectly 
hardy, having withstood a 
temperature of 20 below zero 
uninjured. The flowers are 
of large size for this class of 
rose; usually about one and 
one-half inches across; are 
borne in clusters of ten to 
thirty. The buds are remark- 
ably pretty, just the right 
size for the button-hole. 
Plants are strong, vigorous 
growers. The foliage is deep 
almost an Evergreen variety. 




green of thick leathery texture. It is 



TREE ROSES. 



These beautiful novelties are without question the most pleasing 
and beautiful of anything ever offered in the rose line. There is nothing 
in the history of floriculture that is more beautiful than the Tree Rose. 
The Tree roses are budded from three and a half to four feet from the 
ground, thus forming a beautiful small tree. With proper care, pruning 
and cultivation they succeed well. Are grown in all the principal varie- 
ties of Hardy Hybrid Perpetuals. 

WICHURAIANA ROSES. 

This most distinct and hardy rose has been found to be one of the 
most useful roses, from its being essentially unique in its manner of 



DWYER'S GUIDE. 123 

growth and in its general appearance. Its habit of growth is one of its 
most remarkable features, as the shoots are prostrate in habit, and ex- 
tend from 10 to 15 feet in a single season, covering the ground densely. 
The leaves are dark green and lustrous. The effect of this foliage, form- 
ing a close mat over the ground, is greatly enhanced by the flowers, 
which appear about the middle of July, and are irregularly borne during 
the remainder of the season. 

Wichuraiana (White Memorial Rose). — This, the pretty parent type, 
has clusters of white, single flowers, followed by red berries. It blooms 
a long time in mid-summer. 

Pink Roamer. — Single flowers of bright rich pink. 

RUGOSA ROSES. 

These handsome Ramonas or Rugosa Roses still maintain the pres- 
tige to which their admirable qualities entitle them. They are rapid 
growers of neat, uniform, compact and sturdy habit, attaining a height 
of 5 to 6 feet; perfectly hardy. The foliage exhibits a mass of dense, 
luxuriant, glossy green. The flowers are large and single; perfect form 
and color; produced continuously throughout the season and until late in 
the autumn and as they mature, are replaced by small glossy, golden and 
red haws; they possess a character all their own and are of valuable as- 
sistance to the landscapes By their use he is enabled to make unsightly 
nooks and corners beautiful. A very important characteristic they 
possess is that of being free from the attacks of rose insects. 

Rugosa Alba. — A species from Japan. Single pure white flowers, of 
five petals; highly scented; golden fruit. 

Rugosa Rubra. — Japan variety. Flowers single, of a most beautiful 
bright rosy crimson, succeeded by large berries, of a rich rosy red color, 
and are a great addition to the ornamental character of the plant. 



HARDY CREEPING VINES. 



We cannot successfully adorn the home grounds without employing 
some species of this family. They can be used to advantage for so many 
purposes. The varieties we describe require no special soil and are all 
perfectly hardy. The after culture of Hardy Creeping Vines is very 
simple — an occasional dressing of manure and loosening of the soil is all 
that is necessary. Holes should be dug for these vines three feet in 
width and twelve inches deep. Rich soil should be worked between and 
over the roots and firmly treaded, then tie the vine to a stake or trail it 
to any thing you wish. 

HONEYSUCKLE. 

This is one of the grandest, most cheerful and interesting of the 
family of climbing vines. If we were restricted to but one flowering plant 
or vine we should select the Honeysuckle. It begins blooming early in 
June and continues to produce beautiful, fragrant white and yellow flow- 
ers right up to severe winter weather. In addition to this continuous 



124 DWYER'S GUIDE 

flowering, it has a most magnificent foliage of rich, handsome, glossy 
green. In fact, we consider this fully as valuable and interesting as the 
flowers. One who has a few vines of the Honeysuckle is always prepared 
to make their room cheerful. We believe it is going to become the most 
prominent climbing vine. It can be trained to climb all over the piazza, 
to which it adds great beauty. Retaining its foliage until February 
makes it very desirable for winter landscape. 

Lonicera Halleana (Hall's Japan.) — An almost evergreen honeysuckle 
of the greatest value, being entirely hardy, and of strong, vigorous 
growth. The flowers are exceedingly fragrant, of pure white, changing 
to yellow. Blooms here from June to September. 

Lonicera Aurea Reticulata (Japan Gold-Veined). — A beautiful variety, 
of moderate growth. This variety is especially desirable on account of 
its beautiful winter foliage. Flowers large and peach colored. Blooms 
in June and July. 

Lonicera Punicera (Scarlet Trumpet). — A well-known, strong, grow- 
ing vine; continuous bloom; flowers scarlet, succeeded by red berries; 
suitable for stump and trellis. 

Lonicera Sempervirens (Monthly Fragrant or Dutch Honeysuckle). — 
Showy flowers of red and yellow, delightfully fragrant; continues to 
tloom a long time. Season June and July. 

Ampelopsis Veitchii (Boston Ivy). — Probably no climber has been 
so generally used for the last few years. The leaves of this beautiful 
climber overlap one another closely, changing in the Fall to the most 
beautiful tints, remaining so until they drop. It clings to wood, stone of 
brick, requiring no other support than a smooth surface, to which it 
clings with tenacity. The most unsightly buildings are made picturesque 
by its use. Many residences are covered with it, to whch it lends an ail 
of elegance. 

Ampelopsis Quinquefolia (American Ivy or Virginia Creeper). — Very 
well-known and appreciated; of luxurious, vigorous growth, and owing to 
its ivy-like tendrils, valuable for covering unsightly objects. 

Hedera Helix (English Ivy). — The ivy, being an evergreen not very 
hardy and suffering from exposure to the winter sun, should be planted 
on the north side of buildings or walls. It is very effective grown in 
pots for inside decoration. 

CLEMATIS. 

Jackmanni. — The pioneer of the large flowered, improved Clematis, 
and with few, if any equals, and no superiors. Vigorous, perpetual, very 
profuse and constant. Flowers purple and large. 

Jackmanni Alba. — Similar to the preceding in all respects, except 
that the flowers are pure white. 

Henryi. — One of the best of the lanuginosa type, and the best White 
Clematis. Flowers occasionally during Summer and early Autumn. 

Paniculata. — This is a recent Japanese introduction and one of the 
finest additions to our hardy climbers. It is a very strong, vigorous 
plant, growing rapidly, and as easily grown as the Honeysuckle. Flowers 
pearly white. 

Coccinea. — Very handsome, hardy climber, bearing bell-shaped red 
flowers from June until frost. 

Crispa (Crisped Leather Flower) .—July to September. Flowers 



DWYER'S GUIDE, 125 

singly on long stalks, abundant, iy 2 inches long, lilac purple, and delight- 
fully fragrant. One of the best. 

Flammula (Sweet-Scented Clematis). — Masses of small, white, very 
fragrant flowers from June until September. Very beautiful. 

Virginiana. — A strong climber, with dark green foliage and pretty 
white flower; the bunches of seeds have long, woolly tufts, making them 
very ornamental for Winter decoration. 

WISTARIA. 

This is one of the most popular of our hardy vines, growing very 
rapidly, climbing to a height of 50 feet or more. When in bloom it is 
truly magnificent. It flowers in early Spring resembling in size ancr 
shape a bunch of grapes. 

Wistaria Sinensis (Chinese Blue). — The flowers are of a pale blue* 
color, and are borne in pendulous racemes in May and June. 

Wistaria Alba (Chinese White). — Very like the Chinese Blue, except 
that the flowers are white and remain longer. 

Wistaria Flore Pleno (Chinese Purple). — Blooms in the Spring in* 
short, dense clusters; flowers pale blue. 

AKEBIA QUINATA 

A perfectly hardy, fast growing Japan vine, with magnificent foliage, 
producing flowers in large clusters of chocolate purple color; possessing 
a most delicious perfume; unsurpassed for covering trellises and veran- 
das, the foliage never being attacked by insects. 

Actinidia Polygama. — A climbing plant from Japan. The flowers are 
white with a purple center, and sometimes cover the whole vine. The 
fruit is round, edible and has a fine flavor. 

BIGNONIA OR TRUMPET FLOWER. 

Tecoma Radicans (American Climbing Trumpet Vine). — A splendid 
hardy, climbing plant, with large, trumpet-shaped scarlet flowers in 
August. 

Tecoma Atrosanguinea (Dark Red, or Purple Trumpet Flower). — A 
vigorous shrub with purplish crimson flowers. 

ARISTOLOCHIA. 

Aristolochia Sipho (Dutchman's Pipe). — A native species of rapid 
growth, with magnificent light green foliage and curious pipe-shaped 
yellowish brown flowers; very valuable for trellis work. It can also be 
grown to trail on the veranda and makes a beautiful sight when in 
bloom. 




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FEB 27 19C5 



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NEWBURGH, N. Y. 



LB D '05 



